Washington — The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has approved Bristol-Myers Squibb’s Yervoy (ipilimumab) for treatment of metastatic melanoma.
Yervoy is an injectable monoclonal antibody that blocks cytotoxic T-lymphocyte antigen (CTLA-4), which may play a role in inhibiting the immune system’s ability to fight off cancerous cells.
The drug’s safety and efficacy were established in a single international study of 676 melanoma patients, all of whom had stopped responding to other FDA-approved or commonly used treatments for melanoma. The subject patients’ melanomas either had spread or were inoperable.
The study was designed to measure the length of time from when treatment started until death occurred. The randomly assigned patients received Yervoy and an experimental tumor vaccine called gp100, Yervoy alone or the vaccine alone. Results show that those who received the combination of Yervoy plus the vaccine or Yervoy alone lived an average of about 10 months, while those who received only the experimental vaccine lived an average of 6.5 months.
Common side effects that can result from autoimmune reactions associated with Yervoy use include fatigue, diarrhea, skin rash, endocrine deficiencies and colitis. Severe to fatal autoimmune reactions were seen in 12.9 percent of patients treated with Yervoy. When severe side effects occurred, Yervoy was stopped and corticosteroid treatment started. Not all patients responded to this treatment. Patients who did respond in some cases did not see any improvement for several weeks.
Due to the unusual and severe side effects associated with Yervoy, the therapy is being approved with a Risk Evaluation and Mitigation Strategy to alert medical professionals. Patients will be provided with a medication guide to inform them about potential side effects.
Wednesday, March 30, 2011
Wednesday, March 2, 2011
A Deeper Look at Sun Damage By: Jennifer Wild, DO
Posted: February 28, 2011, from the March 2011 issue of Skin Inc. Magazine.
The one aspect of the esthetic industry that will never change is the fact that everyone’s skin ages. There will always be a need for the correction of the visible signs of aging and, although there are now numerous treatment options available, the first step in treating any skin concern is determining what is happening within the dermis and epidermis that is causing the symptoms. It is well known that ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun are the No. 1 cause of visible aging, hence the popular term “sun damage.” By identifying the breakdown that occurs when the skin is exposed to the sun’s damaging rays and which ingredients can be used to limit or repair this breakdown, more deliberate treatment and product choices can be made.
Understanding sun-driven changes
External factors, such as sunlight, are responsible for many of the visible changes that take place in the skin. Although some minor alterations would occur regardless of a client’s amount of sun exposure, research indicates that up to 85% of visible aging is due to external factors.1 Client complaints regarding this damage are plentiful, and developing an understanding of how and when these changes take place will assist greatly in treatment. The following are among the most common presentations of cutaneous sun damage.
Deep wrinkling. This is not associated with the normal—or intrinsic—aging process; fine lines are normal, deep wrinkles are not. The sun’s UVA rays penetrate deeply into the dermis and cause the breakdown, disorganization and cross-linking of collagen. Cross-linking refers to what occurs when collagen fibers break down and fuse back together in a crisscross pattern. This process leads to reduced support and structure and, in the end, deep wrinkling. In addition, collagen and elastin breakdown is accelerated by an overproduction of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) enzymes. Important MMP include collagenase and elastase, which break down collagen and elastin, respectively. Studies have found that MMP are increased within minutes of UV exposure, making any time spent outdoors potentially destructive to the skin.2
Coarsening. This refers to keratinization of the skin, or the abnormal buildup of keratinocytes. Coarsening is responsible for the dull, thickened and rough-textured appearance often seen in more mature clients. Many refer to coarsening as an orange peel or leatherlike appearance. UVA and UVB radiation can cause an overproduction of epidermal cells, and stratum corneum thickness can double as a result of repeated sun exposure. This obvious, rough-textured appearance only occurs in certain cases of sun damage.
Dehydration. This is common in nearly all cases of sun damage. Dehydration of the skin involves a lack of water moisture. Many incorrectly believe that sebum production decreases with age. In fact, the dryness that is common in clients with aging skin is due to a decrease in the skin’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF). A drop in NMF levels occurs naturally with age, but is worsened by environmental exposure. Even the smallest disruption in this hydrating group of substances can significantly decrease surface moisture levels, and slow the desquamation and cell turnover process. Additionally, hyaluronidase, which is another MMP responsible for the degradation of hyaluronic acid, increases in response to the inflammation caused by UV rays and free radical damage. Clients suffering from sun damage may experience a thickened, dry stratum corneum that appears flaky, dull and rough. This dryness can be exacerbated by improper cleansing and moisturization practices, or the regular use of inherently drying ingredients, such as alcohol or glycolic acid.
Hyperpigmentation. This is one of the most common concerns for mature clients. The melanogenesis, or pigment-producing process, generates melanin in response to inflammation, and UV exposure significantly increases inflammation levels throughout the epidermis and dermis. Sun-induced hyperpigmentation most often appears as random, sporadic freckling that may be more prevalent on the higher, more exposed areas of the face, such as the top of the forehead or the bridge of the nose.
The culprits
Overall, there are dive crucial changes responsible for accelerated visible aging:
The degradation of collagen and elastin
The overproduction of MMP enzymes
A decrease in the skin’s NMF
An overproduction of epidermal cells
An increase in melanin production
The solutions
Now that you know what needs to be addressed, it is much simpler to choose effective ingredients for prevention and correction. See Ingredients That Address Sun Damage to help you identify ingredients that can help relieve your clients’ sun damage concerns.
In-spa treatments—particularly chemical peels and microdermabrasion—are highly recommended. The collagen-stimulating and exfoliating benefits associated with both types of procedures will significantly accelerate results. Research indicates that alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), trichloroacetic acid (TCA), salicylic acid and others stimulate the production of collagen when applied to the skin.3 In addition, each acid either dissolves dead skin cells or dissolves the bonds that hold them together, which will decrease surface buildup, increase cell turnover and support NMF retention. Microdermabrasion has also been shown to stimulate collagen production, and the mechanical exfoliating properties will smooth textural changes, such as wrinkling, and encourage healthy cell turnover rates.4
Practice prevention
Although it is true that each person will continue to age, there are measures that can be taken to limit the severity of visible skin aging. Prevention is, of course, ideal, and clients of all ages should use a broad-spectrum sunscreen each morning. Antioxidants and matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors (MMPi) are also important preventive steps, and some sunscreens are even formulated with protective antioxidants and MMPi ingredients for convenience. Once the damage is done, it is not too late. Clients should use a combination of corrective ingredients that address multiple concerns simultaneously for the fastest possible results. In-spa procedures will also significantly accelerate outcomes. By truly understanding what it is that is being treated, spa professionals of all experience levels can achieve consistent results with all of their clients, resulting in repeat business and retail sales.
REFERENCES
1. J Herschthal and J Kaufman, Cutaneous aging: a review of the process and topical therapies, Expert Review of Dermatology 2 753–761 (2007)
2. GJ Fisher, ZQ Wang and SC Datta, et al, Molecular basis of sun-induced premature skin ageing and retinoid antagonism, Nature 379 335–339 (1996)
3. MA Shiffman, SJ Mirrafati and SM Lam et al, Simplified Facial Rejuvenation, Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg, New York (2007)
4. BM Freedman, E Rueda-Pedraza and SP Waddell, The epidermal and dermal changes associated with microdermabrasion, Dermatol Surg 27 1031–1034 (2001)
Jennifer Wild, DO, is board-certified in family practice, and since 2004 has pursued an active interest in esthetics and skin care, including dermal injections, lasers, professional skin care treatments and products. Her vast knowledge in both the medical and esthetic industries has allowed her to excel within the industry as an advanced educator for PCA Skin.
The one aspect of the esthetic industry that will never change is the fact that everyone’s skin ages. There will always be a need for the correction of the visible signs of aging and, although there are now numerous treatment options available, the first step in treating any skin concern is determining what is happening within the dermis and epidermis that is causing the symptoms. It is well known that ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun are the No. 1 cause of visible aging, hence the popular term “sun damage.” By identifying the breakdown that occurs when the skin is exposed to the sun’s damaging rays and which ingredients can be used to limit or repair this breakdown, more deliberate treatment and product choices can be made.
Understanding sun-driven changes
External factors, such as sunlight, are responsible for many of the visible changes that take place in the skin. Although some minor alterations would occur regardless of a client’s amount of sun exposure, research indicates that up to 85% of visible aging is due to external factors.1 Client complaints regarding this damage are plentiful, and developing an understanding of how and when these changes take place will assist greatly in treatment. The following are among the most common presentations of cutaneous sun damage.
Deep wrinkling. This is not associated with the normal—or intrinsic—aging process; fine lines are normal, deep wrinkles are not. The sun’s UVA rays penetrate deeply into the dermis and cause the breakdown, disorganization and cross-linking of collagen. Cross-linking refers to what occurs when collagen fibers break down and fuse back together in a crisscross pattern. This process leads to reduced support and structure and, in the end, deep wrinkling. In addition, collagen and elastin breakdown is accelerated by an overproduction of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) enzymes. Important MMP include collagenase and elastase, which break down collagen and elastin, respectively. Studies have found that MMP are increased within minutes of UV exposure, making any time spent outdoors potentially destructive to the skin.2
Coarsening. This refers to keratinization of the skin, or the abnormal buildup of keratinocytes. Coarsening is responsible for the dull, thickened and rough-textured appearance often seen in more mature clients. Many refer to coarsening as an orange peel or leatherlike appearance. UVA and UVB radiation can cause an overproduction of epidermal cells, and stratum corneum thickness can double as a result of repeated sun exposure. This obvious, rough-textured appearance only occurs in certain cases of sun damage.
Dehydration. This is common in nearly all cases of sun damage. Dehydration of the skin involves a lack of water moisture. Many incorrectly believe that sebum production decreases with age. In fact, the dryness that is common in clients with aging skin is due to a decrease in the skin’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF). A drop in NMF levels occurs naturally with age, but is worsened by environmental exposure. Even the smallest disruption in this hydrating group of substances can significantly decrease surface moisture levels, and slow the desquamation and cell turnover process. Additionally, hyaluronidase, which is another MMP responsible for the degradation of hyaluronic acid, increases in response to the inflammation caused by UV rays and free radical damage. Clients suffering from sun damage may experience a thickened, dry stratum corneum that appears flaky, dull and rough. This dryness can be exacerbated by improper cleansing and moisturization practices, or the regular use of inherently drying ingredients, such as alcohol or glycolic acid.
Hyperpigmentation. This is one of the most common concerns for mature clients. The melanogenesis, or pigment-producing process, generates melanin in response to inflammation, and UV exposure significantly increases inflammation levels throughout the epidermis and dermis. Sun-induced hyperpigmentation most often appears as random, sporadic freckling that may be more prevalent on the higher, more exposed areas of the face, such as the top of the forehead or the bridge of the nose.
The culprits
Overall, there are dive crucial changes responsible for accelerated visible aging:
The degradation of collagen and elastin
The overproduction of MMP enzymes
A decrease in the skin’s NMF
An overproduction of epidermal cells
An increase in melanin production
The solutions
Now that you know what needs to be addressed, it is much simpler to choose effective ingredients for prevention and correction. See Ingredients That Address Sun Damage to help you identify ingredients that can help relieve your clients’ sun damage concerns.
In-spa treatments—particularly chemical peels and microdermabrasion—are highly recommended. The collagen-stimulating and exfoliating benefits associated with both types of procedures will significantly accelerate results. Research indicates that alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), trichloroacetic acid (TCA), salicylic acid and others stimulate the production of collagen when applied to the skin.3 In addition, each acid either dissolves dead skin cells or dissolves the bonds that hold them together, which will decrease surface buildup, increase cell turnover and support NMF retention. Microdermabrasion has also been shown to stimulate collagen production, and the mechanical exfoliating properties will smooth textural changes, such as wrinkling, and encourage healthy cell turnover rates.4
Practice prevention
Although it is true that each person will continue to age, there are measures that can be taken to limit the severity of visible skin aging. Prevention is, of course, ideal, and clients of all ages should use a broad-spectrum sunscreen each morning. Antioxidants and matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors (MMPi) are also important preventive steps, and some sunscreens are even formulated with protective antioxidants and MMPi ingredients for convenience. Once the damage is done, it is not too late. Clients should use a combination of corrective ingredients that address multiple concerns simultaneously for the fastest possible results. In-spa procedures will also significantly accelerate outcomes. By truly understanding what it is that is being treated, spa professionals of all experience levels can achieve consistent results with all of their clients, resulting in repeat business and retail sales.
REFERENCES
1. J Herschthal and J Kaufman, Cutaneous aging: a review of the process and topical therapies, Expert Review of Dermatology 2 753–761 (2007)
2. GJ Fisher, ZQ Wang and SC Datta, et al, Molecular basis of sun-induced premature skin ageing and retinoid antagonism, Nature 379 335–339 (1996)
3. MA Shiffman, SJ Mirrafati and SM Lam et al, Simplified Facial Rejuvenation, Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg, New York (2007)
4. BM Freedman, E Rueda-Pedraza and SP Waddell, The epidermal and dermal changes associated with microdermabrasion, Dermatol Surg 27 1031–1034 (2001)
Jennifer Wild, DO, is board-certified in family practice, and since 2004 has pursued an active interest in esthetics and skin care, including dermal injections, lasers, professional skin care treatments and products. Her vast knowledge in both the medical and esthetic industries has allowed her to excel within the industry as an advanced educator for PCA Skin.
Monday, February 21, 2011
"Why Preservatives Make a Better Mineral Makeup" By: Sam Dhatt
Hi folks.....I've been crazy busy with DERMASPACE business so it's been a while since I have posted anything on my blog. My deepest apologies. I will be posting more regularly. Below is an interesting article regarding mineral make-up. Stay tuned for more updates by my personally as well as DERMASPACE news. Hope everyone is well and if you have any questions about skin-care that might make for a good article topic feel free to email me at JodyLeon@Dermaspace.com.
"Why Preservatives Make a Better Mineral Makeup" By: Sam Dhatt
Posted: November 29, 2010, from the December 2010 issue of Skin Inc. Magazine.
Today’s women demand more from their skin care products—and makeup—than ever before. In particular, the anti-aging boom of the past decade has brought skin function into sharp focus for discerning consumers.
Makeup and skin care products now are seen by many in a long-term context, as part of a lifelong strategy to prevent and minimize damage and wear to the skin. And thus, women have grown increasingly wary of cosmetic ingredients, including the preservatives commonly used to keep the products fresh, free of spoilage and perfectly blended for product consistency.
As part of this quest for makeup that supports skin health while still offering coverage, color and textural features, mineral makeup, especially in its dry powder form, has become the darling of many eco-advocates. (See Natural vs. Chemical.) Mineral makeup is typically more sheer and subtle than its nonmineral counterparts, giving the skin a glowing finish with translucent titanium and zinc oxide that also provide broad-spectrum sun protection. Although some of the popularity of minerals is based upon scientific accuracy, other aspects are founded upon myth and misinformation that can, in fact, be dangerous to skin health, and may also lead to consumer dissatisfaction.
Key among these misguided beliefs is the idea that mineral makeup requires no preservative component. Many consumers seek out preservative-free mineral makeup, but this choice not only diminishes the shelf life and therefore the dollar value of the product, but also poses health risks to clients.
The myth of clean skin
“Cleanliness” is a relative and subjective term. Dermatologists and skin care product manufacturers, among others, realize this, but consumers may not. This, in turn, leads to misunderstanding. The human body, and in particular human skin, is a teeming microbial zoo. It is estimated that microbes on and in the body outnumber human cells ten-to-one.1 Many researchers consider human skin, the body’s largest organ, the final frontier of unexplored science, much as the ocean depths or the reaches of space were once viewed. Experts currently recognize at least 182 species of bacteria—fondly called “normal flora” by bacteriologists—as common residents of human skin. In fact, recent research revealed that 19 species alone live in the warm, shadowy areas behind the ears.2
Unless the skin is being disinfected for surgery, cleansing with conventional products, including over-the-counter antibacterial soaps, basically lightens the bioload, but does not fully eradicate all bacteria. Luckily, few of these visitors are lethal. The normal, healthy body tolerates the presence of most bacteria, presuming that the immune system is robust. In fact, the good bacteria present actually defend the skin against pathogen invaders.
Skin is always in a state of bacterial activity, even in the most sterile of settings. The bacteria recolonize as soon as they are disturbed by cleansing, arriving from the air, from everything that is touched and from within the human body itself.
Four established groups of bacteria live on human skin: propionibacteria, corynebacteria, staphylococcus and streptococcus. Those last two groups should give you pause. Staphylococcus aureus and streptococcus mutans, pneumoniae and pyogenes are pathogens. Staphylococcus aureus is the leading cause of bacterial disease in humans, while streptococcus pneumoniae causes 95% of all bacterial pneumonia.
Other commonly found pathogens on the skin include Escherichia coli—E. coli—and Enterococcus faecalis, a component of human intestinal flora used by many European countries as a standard indicator of pollution by sewage, much the way E.coli counts are taken in U.S. waters to determine their safety for drinking and swimming. Human skin typically also swarms with Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Candida albicans, Aspergillus niger, Neisseria meningitidis, Haemophilus influenzae and several forms of Clostridium, all potentially aggressive microbes that are normally kept in check by healthy immunosuppression. Molds, fungi and yeasts are also present, to a smaller degree.
But do you really want to grow your own colonies of these bacteria in your makeup bag?
Mineral promise, paraben parable
It is important to understand that, because the skin is a thriving community of microbes, everything that touches it becomes their transport system. A makeup brush or applicator scoops up innumerable microorganisms with even one pass over cleansed skin. Unless the applicator or brush is discarded or disinfected each time it touches the skin—realizing that a woman typically passes the brush or sponge over the skin several times per application of bronzer, base, eye shadow and blush—entire colonies are introduced back into the pan or jar of cosmetic product each day. They proliferate exponentially, awaiting the arrival of new colleagues with the next product use.
Bacteria thrive in moisture, and this has been part of the appeal of mineral makeup: they are dry powders. It stands to reason that because mineral makeup contains no water in the formulations, no preservatives are needed to prevent the microbial proliferation that is ubiquitous. But here’s where it gets sticky—literally. Even if manufacturers ship promptly and even if the product moves briskly in the retail environment, clients are notorious for hanging on to their favorite cosmetic products long after the manufacturer’s suggested expiration date.
Also consider that makeup is often stored in steamy, warm, damp places, such as the bathroom, and the surfaces and even the air of the bathroom is often laden with an abundance of intestinal flora. These persistently find their way into any product used there.
These microbial concentrations often cause mild infections and irritations. For instance, conjunctivitis is commonly caused by one of the Staph family, which is one of the largest groups of bacteria composing normal flora. Consumers may presume that ingredients listed on a cosmetic package are causing an allergic or inflammatory response in their skin, when in fact they may be reacting to the bacterial omnipresence.
Preservative alternatives
Given this knowledge, the case for preservatives—even in mineral makeup—is irrefutable. So the question becomes, what makes a great preservative? Parabens were the answer until recently. Parabens are a food-grade preservative derived from benzoic acid that operate as a broad-spectrum antimicrobial. Although links between parabens and disease are not conclusive, recent controversy and media concern has turned a large portion of public opinion against this once-common solution. (Editor’s note: See “The Truth About Parabens” by Carol and Robert Trow, which appeared in Skin Inc. magazine’s July 2010 issue.)
Because of this, manufacturers are faced with the challenge of finding a replacement system that is not only effective, but is also nonirritating, nonsensitizing, nontoxic and nonmutagenic, meaning that the preservative does not disturb the DNA configuration. The fact of the matter is that some manufacturers explicitly state that their products are preservative-free in order to court the preference of green consumers, when, in fact, for safety, the products are filled with preservatives. Misleading the consumer is illegal, and certainly never ethically correct, but the conundrum here is clear. Many alternative preservatives are too narrow in spectrum to be practical. Most vitamins and essential oils are not versatile or strong enough on their own to work as effective preservatives.
The new trends in preservative formulation focus upon phenoxyethanol blends, which enhance their effectiveness with preservative boosters such as caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol and ethylhexylglycerin. The spa industry continues to discover new solutions in the garden, with botanical-based compounds meeting the needs of consumers seeking safe, effective, gentle and truly natural products. For instance, a blend of honeysuckle and jojoba from BioNatural called Plantservative is now proven to prevent microbial action in mineral cosmetics.
Educating and re-educating clients about the need for preservatives in mineral makeup is part of the continuing quest to develop products that meet the diverse array of client demands, because only products that are manufactured with health and safety in mind are truly beautiful.
REFERENCES
1. www.independent.co.uk/news/science/human-skin-is-a-zoo-of-bacteria-scientists-say-435234.html
2. www.nih.gov/news/health/may2009/nhgri-28.htm
(Both accessed Oct 15, 2010)
Sam Dhatt is an award-winning cosmeceutical chemist who serves as the CEO and president of Hayward, California-based DermaQuest Skin Therapy and Allure Labs. During his more-than-20-year career as a sought-after formulator, he has developed and manufactured skin care products for more than 700 companies, including many of the best-known brands in the industry. Dhatt is a frequent author featured in many trade journals and skin care publications, and speaks on ingredients and formulation with the goal of increasing esthetician knowledge and success.
"Why Preservatives Make a Better Mineral Makeup" By: Sam Dhatt
Posted: November 29, 2010, from the December 2010 issue of Skin Inc. Magazine.
Today’s women demand more from their skin care products—and makeup—than ever before. In particular, the anti-aging boom of the past decade has brought skin function into sharp focus for discerning consumers.
Makeup and skin care products now are seen by many in a long-term context, as part of a lifelong strategy to prevent and minimize damage and wear to the skin. And thus, women have grown increasingly wary of cosmetic ingredients, including the preservatives commonly used to keep the products fresh, free of spoilage and perfectly blended for product consistency.
As part of this quest for makeup that supports skin health while still offering coverage, color and textural features, mineral makeup, especially in its dry powder form, has become the darling of many eco-advocates. (See Natural vs. Chemical.) Mineral makeup is typically more sheer and subtle than its nonmineral counterparts, giving the skin a glowing finish with translucent titanium and zinc oxide that also provide broad-spectrum sun protection. Although some of the popularity of minerals is based upon scientific accuracy, other aspects are founded upon myth and misinformation that can, in fact, be dangerous to skin health, and may also lead to consumer dissatisfaction.
Key among these misguided beliefs is the idea that mineral makeup requires no preservative component. Many consumers seek out preservative-free mineral makeup, but this choice not only diminishes the shelf life and therefore the dollar value of the product, but also poses health risks to clients.
The myth of clean skin
“Cleanliness” is a relative and subjective term. Dermatologists and skin care product manufacturers, among others, realize this, but consumers may not. This, in turn, leads to misunderstanding. The human body, and in particular human skin, is a teeming microbial zoo. It is estimated that microbes on and in the body outnumber human cells ten-to-one.1 Many researchers consider human skin, the body’s largest organ, the final frontier of unexplored science, much as the ocean depths or the reaches of space were once viewed. Experts currently recognize at least 182 species of bacteria—fondly called “normal flora” by bacteriologists—as common residents of human skin. In fact, recent research revealed that 19 species alone live in the warm, shadowy areas behind the ears.2
Unless the skin is being disinfected for surgery, cleansing with conventional products, including over-the-counter antibacterial soaps, basically lightens the bioload, but does not fully eradicate all bacteria. Luckily, few of these visitors are lethal. The normal, healthy body tolerates the presence of most bacteria, presuming that the immune system is robust. In fact, the good bacteria present actually defend the skin against pathogen invaders.
Skin is always in a state of bacterial activity, even in the most sterile of settings. The bacteria recolonize as soon as they are disturbed by cleansing, arriving from the air, from everything that is touched and from within the human body itself.
Four established groups of bacteria live on human skin: propionibacteria, corynebacteria, staphylococcus and streptococcus. Those last two groups should give you pause. Staphylococcus aureus and streptococcus mutans, pneumoniae and pyogenes are pathogens. Staphylococcus aureus is the leading cause of bacterial disease in humans, while streptococcus pneumoniae causes 95% of all bacterial pneumonia.
Other commonly found pathogens on the skin include Escherichia coli—E. coli—and Enterococcus faecalis, a component of human intestinal flora used by many European countries as a standard indicator of pollution by sewage, much the way E.coli counts are taken in U.S. waters to determine their safety for drinking and swimming. Human skin typically also swarms with Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Candida albicans, Aspergillus niger, Neisseria meningitidis, Haemophilus influenzae and several forms of Clostridium, all potentially aggressive microbes that are normally kept in check by healthy immunosuppression. Molds, fungi and yeasts are also present, to a smaller degree.
But do you really want to grow your own colonies of these bacteria in your makeup bag?
Mineral promise, paraben parable
It is important to understand that, because the skin is a thriving community of microbes, everything that touches it becomes their transport system. A makeup brush or applicator scoops up innumerable microorganisms with even one pass over cleansed skin. Unless the applicator or brush is discarded or disinfected each time it touches the skin—realizing that a woman typically passes the brush or sponge over the skin several times per application of bronzer, base, eye shadow and blush—entire colonies are introduced back into the pan or jar of cosmetic product each day. They proliferate exponentially, awaiting the arrival of new colleagues with the next product use.
Bacteria thrive in moisture, and this has been part of the appeal of mineral makeup: they are dry powders. It stands to reason that because mineral makeup contains no water in the formulations, no preservatives are needed to prevent the microbial proliferation that is ubiquitous. But here’s where it gets sticky—literally. Even if manufacturers ship promptly and even if the product moves briskly in the retail environment, clients are notorious for hanging on to their favorite cosmetic products long after the manufacturer’s suggested expiration date.
Also consider that makeup is often stored in steamy, warm, damp places, such as the bathroom, and the surfaces and even the air of the bathroom is often laden with an abundance of intestinal flora. These persistently find their way into any product used there.
These microbial concentrations often cause mild infections and irritations. For instance, conjunctivitis is commonly caused by one of the Staph family, which is one of the largest groups of bacteria composing normal flora. Consumers may presume that ingredients listed on a cosmetic package are causing an allergic or inflammatory response in their skin, when in fact they may be reacting to the bacterial omnipresence.
Preservative alternatives
Given this knowledge, the case for preservatives—even in mineral makeup—is irrefutable. So the question becomes, what makes a great preservative? Parabens were the answer until recently. Parabens are a food-grade preservative derived from benzoic acid that operate as a broad-spectrum antimicrobial. Although links between parabens and disease are not conclusive, recent controversy and media concern has turned a large portion of public opinion against this once-common solution. (Editor’s note: See “The Truth About Parabens” by Carol and Robert Trow, which appeared in Skin Inc. magazine’s July 2010 issue.)
Because of this, manufacturers are faced with the challenge of finding a replacement system that is not only effective, but is also nonirritating, nonsensitizing, nontoxic and nonmutagenic, meaning that the preservative does not disturb the DNA configuration. The fact of the matter is that some manufacturers explicitly state that their products are preservative-free in order to court the preference of green consumers, when, in fact, for safety, the products are filled with preservatives. Misleading the consumer is illegal, and certainly never ethically correct, but the conundrum here is clear. Many alternative preservatives are too narrow in spectrum to be practical. Most vitamins and essential oils are not versatile or strong enough on their own to work as effective preservatives.
The new trends in preservative formulation focus upon phenoxyethanol blends, which enhance their effectiveness with preservative boosters such as caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol and ethylhexylglycerin. The spa industry continues to discover new solutions in the garden, with botanical-based compounds meeting the needs of consumers seeking safe, effective, gentle and truly natural products. For instance, a blend of honeysuckle and jojoba from BioNatural called Plantservative is now proven to prevent microbial action in mineral cosmetics.
Educating and re-educating clients about the need for preservatives in mineral makeup is part of the continuing quest to develop products that meet the diverse array of client demands, because only products that are manufactured with health and safety in mind are truly beautiful.
REFERENCES
1. www.independent.co.uk/news/science/human-skin-is-a-zoo-of-bacteria-scientists-say-435234.html
2. www.nih.gov/news/health/may2009/nhgri-28.htm
(Both accessed Oct 15, 2010)
Sam Dhatt is an award-winning cosmeceutical chemist who serves as the CEO and president of Hayward, California-based DermaQuest Skin Therapy and Allure Labs. During his more-than-20-year career as a sought-after formulator, he has developed and manufactured skin care products for more than 700 companies, including many of the best-known brands in the industry. Dhatt is a frequent author featured in many trade journals and skin care publications, and speaks on ingredients and formulation with the goal of increasing esthetician knowledge and success.
Monday, October 4, 2010
No laps for warm laptops; skin damage is possible.
LINDSEY TANNER
Published: 21 minutes ago
CHICAGO (AP)
Have you ever worked on your laptop computer with it sitting on your lap, heating up your legs? If so, you might want to rethink that habit.
Doing it a lot can lead to "toasted skin syndrome," an unusual-looking mottled skin condition caused by long-term heat exposure, according to medical reports.
In one recent case, a 12-year-old boy developed a sponge-patterned skin discoloration on his left thigh after playing computer games a few hours every day for several months.
"He recognized that the laptop got hot on the left side; however, regardless of that, he did not change its position," Swiss researchers reported in an article published Monday in the journal Pediatrics.
Another case involved a Virginia law student who sought treatment for the mottled discoloration on her leg.
Dr. Kimberley Salkey, who treated the young woman, was stumped until she learned the student spent about six hours a day working with her computer propped on her lap. The temperature underneath registered 125 degrees.
That case, from 2007, is one of 10 laptop-related cases reported in medical journals in the past six years.
The condition also can be caused by overuse of heating pads and other heat sources that usually aren't hot enough to cause burns. It's generally harmless but can cause permanent skin darkening. In very rare cases, it can cause damage leading to skin cancers, said the Swiss researchers, Drs. Andreas Arnold and Peter Itin from University Hospital Basel. They do not cite any skin cancer cases linked to laptop use, but suggest, to be safe, placing a carrying case or other heat shield under the laptop if you have to hold it in your lap.
Salkey, an assistant dermatology professor at Eastern Virginia Medical School, said that under the microscope, the affected skin resembles skin damaged by long-term sun exposure.
Major manufacturers including Apple, Hewlett Packard and Dell warn in user manuals against placing laptops on laps or exposed skin for extended periods of time because of the risk for burns.
A medical report several years ago found that men who used laptops on their laps had elevated scrotum temperatures. If prolonged, that kind of heat can decrease sperm production, which can potentially lead to infertility. Whether laptop use itself can cause that kind of harm hasn't been confirmed.
In the past, "toasted skin syndrome" has occurred in workers whose jobs require being close to a heat source, including bakers and glass blowers, and, before central heating, in people who huddled near potbellied stoves to stay warm.
Dr. Anthony J. Mancini, dermatology chief at Children's Memorial Hospital in Chicago, said he'd treated a boy who developed the condition from using a heating pad "hours at a time" to soothe a thigh injured in soccer. Mancini said he'd also seen a case caused by a hot water bottle.
He noted that chronic, prolonged skin inflammation can potentially increase chances for squamous cell skin cancer, which is more aggressive than the most common skin cancer. But Mancini said it's unlikely computer use would lead to cancer since it's so easy to avoid prolonged close skin contact with laptops.
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Online:
Pediatrics: http://www.pediatrics.org
Published: 21 minutes ago
CHICAGO (AP)
Have you ever worked on your laptop computer with it sitting on your lap, heating up your legs? If so, you might want to rethink that habit.
Doing it a lot can lead to "toasted skin syndrome," an unusual-looking mottled skin condition caused by long-term heat exposure, according to medical reports.
In one recent case, a 12-year-old boy developed a sponge-patterned skin discoloration on his left thigh after playing computer games a few hours every day for several months.
"He recognized that the laptop got hot on the left side; however, regardless of that, he did not change its position," Swiss researchers reported in an article published Monday in the journal Pediatrics.
Another case involved a Virginia law student who sought treatment for the mottled discoloration on her leg.
Dr. Kimberley Salkey, who treated the young woman, was stumped until she learned the student spent about six hours a day working with her computer propped on her lap. The temperature underneath registered 125 degrees.
That case, from 2007, is one of 10 laptop-related cases reported in medical journals in the past six years.
The condition also can be caused by overuse of heating pads and other heat sources that usually aren't hot enough to cause burns. It's generally harmless but can cause permanent skin darkening. In very rare cases, it can cause damage leading to skin cancers, said the Swiss researchers, Drs. Andreas Arnold and Peter Itin from University Hospital Basel. They do not cite any skin cancer cases linked to laptop use, but suggest, to be safe, placing a carrying case or other heat shield under the laptop if you have to hold it in your lap.
Salkey, an assistant dermatology professor at Eastern Virginia Medical School, said that under the microscope, the affected skin resembles skin damaged by long-term sun exposure.
Major manufacturers including Apple, Hewlett Packard and Dell warn in user manuals against placing laptops on laps or exposed skin for extended periods of time because of the risk for burns.
A medical report several years ago found that men who used laptops on their laps had elevated scrotum temperatures. If prolonged, that kind of heat can decrease sperm production, which can potentially lead to infertility. Whether laptop use itself can cause that kind of harm hasn't been confirmed.
In the past, "toasted skin syndrome" has occurred in workers whose jobs require being close to a heat source, including bakers and glass blowers, and, before central heating, in people who huddled near potbellied stoves to stay warm.
Dr. Anthony J. Mancini, dermatology chief at Children's Memorial Hospital in Chicago, said he'd treated a boy who developed the condition from using a heating pad "hours at a time" to soothe a thigh injured in soccer. Mancini said he'd also seen a case caused by a hot water bottle.
He noted that chronic, prolonged skin inflammation can potentially increase chances for squamous cell skin cancer, which is more aggressive than the most common skin cancer. But Mancini said it's unlikely computer use would lead to cancer since it's so easy to avoid prolonged close skin contact with laptops.
___
Online:
Pediatrics: http://www.pediatrics.org
Thursday, September 2, 2010
A great write up of DERMASPACE & The Iderm Facial Treatment!
Step aside, treadmills and Stairmasters -- there’s a new kind of gym in town, the “Skin-Gym.” With Dermaspace’s Iderm Facial Treatment, or “Skin-Gym,” toning and tightening aren’t just for glutes, triceps and biceps anymore. It’s your face’s turn to get fit. If the typical spa facial is a walk in the park, then the Iderm Facial Treatment, which focuses on deep tissue cleansing, is a one-on-one session with a personal trainer.
Experienced esthetician and owner of Dermaspace, Jody Leon, is Washington State’s only certified Iderm Facial Treatment specialist, so when you’re with him, your skin is in good hands. He begins the treatment’s four-step process by assessing each client’s skin type. Next comes the detoxification preparation, which he accompanies with a relaxing arm and hand massage – working out never felt so good! After a thorough deep cleaning, Jody ends the treatment with a procedure called ionization, which firms the skin, shrinks pores and decreases inflammation, among other things. Just think of it as the equivalent of a post-workout cool down.
With obvious results and no heavy lifting required, the “Skin-Gym” is the kind of workout everyone dreams of, and at only $85 ($50 for first time clients), this is the kind of deal you can’t refuse.
Courtesy of Local Twist
Experienced esthetician and owner of Dermaspace, Jody Leon, is Washington State’s only certified Iderm Facial Treatment specialist, so when you’re with him, your skin is in good hands. He begins the treatment’s four-step process by assessing each client’s skin type. Next comes the detoxification preparation, which he accompanies with a relaxing arm and hand massage – working out never felt so good! After a thorough deep cleaning, Jody ends the treatment with a procedure called ionization, which firms the skin, shrinks pores and decreases inflammation, among other things. Just think of it as the equivalent of a post-workout cool down.
With obvious results and no heavy lifting required, the “Skin-Gym” is the kind of workout everyone dreams of, and at only $85 ($50 for first time clients), this is the kind of deal you can’t refuse.
Courtesy of Local Twist
Saturday, August 14, 2010
Foods, Drugs and Vitamins May Help Prevent Skin Cancer - via Skin Inc.
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In most cases, non-melanoma skin cancers are caused by overexposure to ultraviolet radiation, the invisible rays from the sun that can burn the skin. To reduce the risk of skin cancer, dermatologists encourage the public to be sun smart, including limiting sun exposure and using broad-spectrum sunscreens. Despite these efforts, the incidence of non-melanoma skin cancer continues to rise. Now, several agents—including medicines, foods and vitamins—are being investigated for their chemopreventive properties, or ability to prevent skin cancer. At the American Academy of Dermatology’s Summer Academy Meeting 2010 in Chicago, dermatologist Craig A. Elmets, MD, FAAD, professor and chair, department of dermatology and director of the Skin Diseases Research Center, University of Alabama at Birmingham, discussed promising new research on the use of medicine and diet to prevent UV-induced skin cancer in the future. “Based on the research conducted thus far, it appears that several different agents have the potential to be effective in providing enhanced sun protection and preventing non-melanoma skin cancers,” said Elmets. “While the way these agents work are different, we have seen encouraging results with both oral and topical agents, including non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), eflornithine and certain natural antioxidants.” Medications investigated as future chemopreventive agents NSAIDs are a class of drugs that block cyclooxygenase enzymes (COX-1 and COX-2), which produce prostaglandins that promote inflammation, pain and fever. When these enzyme messengers responsible for reducing prostaglandins throughout the body are blocked, ongoing inflammation, pain and fever are reduced. One such NSAID approved by the Food & Drug Administration (FDA) and used primarily to treat inflammation associated with arthritis is celecoxib. Elmets noted the chemopreventive agent's use in patients with a syndrome known as basal cell nevus syndrome. Caused by a genetic defect, basal cell nevus syndrome triggers patients to develop basal cell carcinomas at a very young age. “In patients with basal cell cacinomas, investigators have found that the COX-2 enzyme is elevated in non-melanoma skin cancers. Because celecoxib inhibits this enzyme, clinical studies have demonstrated that taking celecoxib seems to decrease the number of new basal cell carcinomas in basal cell nevus syndrome,” he said. “This is very encouraging, particularly if this can eventually be applied to basal cell skin cancer in the general population.” According to Elmets, eflornithine is another drug that has been shown to have beneficial effects in preventing basal cell carcinoma. FDA-approved as a topical treatment for excessive hair growth and as an injectable formulation to treat sleeping sickness, eflornithine inhibits the enzyme known as ornithine decarboxylase that is found to be elevated in skin cancers. “Although celecoxib and eflornithine work by different mechanisms, initial studies show that they both prevent basal cell carcinomas by at least 30%,” said Elmets. “Based on these initial findings, these two drugs are considered very promising as chemopreventive agents and require additional clinical study.” Natural antioxidants in preventing skin cancer In addition, numerous natural antioxidants are being evaluated for their chemopreventive properties. Antioxidants are substances that destroy free radicals, which are harmful compounds in the body that damage DNA and even cause cell death. Free radicals are believed to contribute to aging as well as the development of a number of health problems, including skin cancer. Animal studies and emerging clinical studies suggest that the abundance of antioxidant polyphenols in green tea and grape seed extract may play an important role in helping to prevent the onset and growth of skin tumors. Similarly, the pomegranate fruit also is thought to be effective in promoting skin health since it has very high levels of antioxidants called flavonoids that have been shown to counteract various cancer-causing free radicals. “It remains unclear precisely how these natural antioxidants work, but they all are considered powerful when used externally,” said Elmets. “These substances also have an anti-inflammatory effect, which is known to be chemopreventive. However, it is important to remember that the FDA has not approved the use of these natural antioxidants as chemopreventive agents, and controlled studies need to be conducted in humans to determine whether they may help prevent skin cancer. At present, the evidence to support these benefits is largely based on animal studies.” “As dermatologists, we will always recommend sunscreens and sun-smart behaviors, like seeking shade, wearing hats and limiting sun exposure. These lifestyle strategies are vital to preventing skin cancer and should not be replaced,” added Elmets. “However, I could envision in the future that we also may recommend a cocktail of chemopreventive agents to provide patients enhanced protection against UV-induced skin cancers. Our hope is that further human studies will help us better understand how to effectively incorporate these new agents into practice and thereby turn the tide on the escalating rate of skin cancer in this country.” |
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| Find this article at:
http://www.skininc.com/skinscience/physiology/100527674.html |
Tuesday, July 20, 2010
Summer Special
Dermaspace is offering a great special for 1st time clients.
$50 for the Iderm Facial Treatment - regular price, $85.
For more information or to book online visit DERMASPACE!
$50 for the Iderm Facial Treatment - regular price, $85.
For more information or to book online visit DERMASPACE!
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