Thursday, June 2, 2011
Great article in the New York Times!
I began my career at The Face Place in 1995 and now offer this amazing treatment in Seattle. Check out this article by clicking HERE.
Wednesday, May 4, 2011
Fundamentals of Laser Science By: Zoe D. Draelos, MD, and Peter T. Pugliese, MD
Posted fro SkinInc.: March 28, 2011
A basic understanding of the physics of lasers and how laser light interacts with skin is essential information for any esthetician who plans to move ahead in this industry. Estheticians need to understand the basics of laser science and to appreciate the wide range of its applications to skin care.
Lasers can be used to destroy or physically remove unwanted tissue. The old methods as well as the more recently used resurfacing laser treatments fall into this category. With resurfacing, skin actually is removed either superficially or more deeply. Resurfacing causes tissue loss; laser stimulation doesn’t destroy tissue. The problem with this is that skin repairs itself perfectly at the time of injury only if enough of the cells that regenerate skin remain; that is, if the basal layer of the epidermis is left intact. The deeper the removal of the dermis, the less perfect is the subsequent repair. For example, the new skin can be left whiter and thinner than normal. Furthermore, only skin on the face can be treated this way as the dermis on the body is much thinner and mechanical removal of even slight depth could cause scarring.
The alternative way of using laser light is to use it to stimulate the patient’s body to produce the desired repair without any mechanical destruction. This requires meticulous attention to the technique of application, which also has to be very gentle. It is slower than resurfacing, but the benefits far outweigh the investment of time. The skin repairs itself perfectly, provided it is not accidentally or purposefully interfered with during the healing process. The genetic code in the basal cells and fibroblasts acts as the master plan that the body uses as the method by which to heal itself. Extensive destruction of regenerative epidermal cells removes this data from the master plan. When laser light is used in these very gentle modes, it simply acts as a trigger to start this re-healing process, just as any gentle rejuvenation process.
Actually all lasers can be used in this gentle fashion. The laser chosen will depend on where in the skin the repair needs to occur. As you now know, different colors of laser light will penetrate to different depths. The carbon dioxide laser is capable of the deepest penetration, able to reach collagen and beyond. It is used to stimulate dermal collagen repair resulting in rejuvenating skin, or repairing scars and stretch marks. It takes gentle stimulation requiring a special care so that the temperature delivered to the tissue remains specific. See The Effects of Temperature on Tissue.
Laser technology is fast developing, but the training and associated skills still are lacking. Recommending one of your clients for laser treatment imposes considerable responsibility on the esthetician. Having a laser and knowing how use it are not the same things. A pilot skilled in flying a single engine airplane would not dream of trying to fly a multi-engine airplane without adequate training by an experienced pilot. A few days training, or even a month of training with a laser is not adequate to qualify a physician as an expert. The esthetician should get a good background on the physician’s training and experience with lasers before referring a client.
Order online at www.Allured.com/bookstore, or call 1-630-653-2155. Volume discounts available.
Allured Books is a division of Allured Business Media, a global information leader in the personal care, beauty, professional skin care, and fragrance and flavor industries for more than 90 years. Publisher of definitive business-to-business magazines and industry-leading books, electronic media, reference materials and directories, and producers of dynamic trade shows and conferences, Allured continues to set information standards in the industries it serves. Publisher of Skin Inc., Cosmetics & Toiletries, Global Cosmetics Industry (GCI) and Perfumer & Flavorist magazines and The Journal of Essential Oil Research.
A basic understanding of the physics of lasers and how laser light interacts with skin is essential information for any esthetician who plans to move ahead in this industry. Estheticians need to understand the basics of laser science and to appreciate the wide range of its applications to skin care.
Lasers can be used to destroy or physically remove unwanted tissue. The old methods as well as the more recently used resurfacing laser treatments fall into this category. With resurfacing, skin actually is removed either superficially or more deeply. Resurfacing causes tissue loss; laser stimulation doesn’t destroy tissue. The problem with this is that skin repairs itself perfectly at the time of injury only if enough of the cells that regenerate skin remain; that is, if the basal layer of the epidermis is left intact. The deeper the removal of the dermis, the less perfect is the subsequent repair. For example, the new skin can be left whiter and thinner than normal. Furthermore, only skin on the face can be treated this way as the dermis on the body is much thinner and mechanical removal of even slight depth could cause scarring.
The alternative way of using laser light is to use it to stimulate the patient’s body to produce the desired repair without any mechanical destruction. This requires meticulous attention to the technique of application, which also has to be very gentle. It is slower than resurfacing, but the benefits far outweigh the investment of time. The skin repairs itself perfectly, provided it is not accidentally or purposefully interfered with during the healing process. The genetic code in the basal cells and fibroblasts acts as the master plan that the body uses as the method by which to heal itself. Extensive destruction of regenerative epidermal cells removes this data from the master plan. When laser light is used in these very gentle modes, it simply acts as a trigger to start this re-healing process, just as any gentle rejuvenation process.
Actually all lasers can be used in this gentle fashion. The laser chosen will depend on where in the skin the repair needs to occur. As you now know, different colors of laser light will penetrate to different depths. The carbon dioxide laser is capable of the deepest penetration, able to reach collagen and beyond. It is used to stimulate dermal collagen repair resulting in rejuvenating skin, or repairing scars and stretch marks. It takes gentle stimulation requiring a special care so that the temperature delivered to the tissue remains specific. See The Effects of Temperature on Tissue.
Laser technology is fast developing, but the training and associated skills still are lacking. Recommending one of your clients for laser treatment imposes considerable responsibility on the esthetician. Having a laser and knowing how use it are not the same things. A pilot skilled in flying a single engine airplane would not dream of trying to fly a multi-engine airplane without adequate training by an experienced pilot. A few days training, or even a month of training with a laser is not adequate to qualify a physician as an expert. The esthetician should get a good background on the physician’s training and experience with lasers before referring a client.
Order online at www.Allured.com/bookstore, or call 1-630-653-2155. Volume discounts available.
Allured Books is a division of Allured Business Media, a global information leader in the personal care, beauty, professional skin care, and fragrance and flavor industries for more than 90 years. Publisher of definitive business-to-business magazines and industry-leading books, electronic media, reference materials and directories, and producers of dynamic trade shows and conferences, Allured continues to set information standards in the industries it serves. Publisher of Skin Inc., Cosmetics & Toiletries, Global Cosmetics Industry (GCI) and Perfumer & Flavorist magazines and The Journal of Essential Oil Research.
Sunday, May 1, 2011
The Importance of Pre-Booking your Iderm Facial Treatments!
Hi everyone....
I just wanted to talk to you briefly about the importance of pre-booking your appointments.
I am currently the only person north of San Francisco currently offering the Iderm Facial Treatment.
(Hannah Sowd does an amazing job in SF and Marianne Kehoe of Face to Face LA is the woman to see in Los Angeles)
I do 25 clients per week right now. That's it until DERMASPACE expands. I am hoping to have a second treatment room by July and an assistant to help me which will allow me to double my availability.
DERMASPACE is open Tuesday-Saturday. For special events or if you must see me then I will take appointments on my days off at an increased price. Contact me for details.
Most of my clients see me every two weeks, a few come weekly. I have several clients who have booked their appointments in advance through the end of the year.
I am becoming increasingly busy so if you want to take your skin care to the next level then I highly recommend pre-booking standing appointments with me since appointment times are first come first serve. I want to make sure I can see you and help you achieve your skin care goals and will do my best to accommodate you.
Keep your fingers crossed that the second treatment room and the expansion of DERMASPACE goes forward. I am being interviewed on The Marie Manuchehri Show…Where Energy and Medicine Meet on August 11th so I am expecting an influx of new clients so if you are currently seeing me and want to ensure you still can after August 11th then please pre-book.
You can book easily online by clicking HERE.
Thank each and every one of you for being so loyal to me and DERMASPACE. It has been a pleasure and so rewarding to do what I love and to provide you with excellent skin care. If you have any suggestions for me or comments please do not hesitate to contact me.
Never in my wildest dreams did I imagine that DERMASPACE would grow so fast and I feel quite blessed. THANK YOU!!!
Best,
Jody, The Skin Wizard
I just wanted to talk to you briefly about the importance of pre-booking your appointments.
I am currently the only person north of San Francisco currently offering the Iderm Facial Treatment.
(Hannah Sowd does an amazing job in SF and Marianne Kehoe of Face to Face LA is the woman to see in Los Angeles)
I do 25 clients per week right now. That's it until DERMASPACE expands. I am hoping to have a second treatment room by July and an assistant to help me which will allow me to double my availability.
DERMASPACE is open Tuesday-Saturday. For special events or if you must see me then I will take appointments on my days off at an increased price. Contact me for details.
Most of my clients see me every two weeks, a few come weekly. I have several clients who have booked their appointments in advance through the end of the year.
I am becoming increasingly busy so if you want to take your skin care to the next level then I highly recommend pre-booking standing appointments with me since appointment times are first come first serve. I want to make sure I can see you and help you achieve your skin care goals and will do my best to accommodate you.
Keep your fingers crossed that the second treatment room and the expansion of DERMASPACE goes forward. I am being interviewed on The Marie Manuchehri Show…Where Energy and Medicine Meet on August 11th so I am expecting an influx of new clients so if you are currently seeing me and want to ensure you still can after August 11th then please pre-book.
You can book easily online by clicking HERE.
Thank each and every one of you for being so loyal to me and DERMASPACE. It has been a pleasure and so rewarding to do what I love and to provide you with excellent skin care. If you have any suggestions for me or comments please do not hesitate to contact me.
Never in my wildest dreams did I imagine that DERMASPACE would grow so fast and I feel quite blessed. THANK YOU!!!
Best,
Jody, The Skin Wizard
DERMASPACE Price Changes for the IDERM FACIAL TREATMENT
Hello Everyone!!!
I'm writing you on a lovely spring day here in Seattle....FINALLY the sun is out and there is warmth in the air.
For the last year and a half I have offered Dermaculture's Iderm Facial Treatment for a very low price of $85. Normally this treatment goes for $125 in Los Angeles and New York. My goal is to help you achieve beautiful, healthy skin so I have tried to keep the treatment affordable so I established my base price of $85. If you were a frequent client (those who make the commitment to come every 2 weeks) then your price would be $75.
The intro price began at $50 then was raised to $65. I also had employee perks deals with Amazon, Seattle Children's Hospital and Seattle Cancer Care Alliance.
Well.....life happens. The kids get sick, you get sick, work becomes a burden and your spouse forgets to tell you about a company barbecue. Whatever the case sometimes clients have to cancel and reschedule appointment so instead of coming every 2 weeks it becomes every 3 or 4...then back on track, then off again, etc.....you get the picture.
I love my clients and of course would not make any of you who have been so loyal to me pay the higher price if you fall off track with your skin care maintenance. It was becoming increasingly difficult for me to manage the accounting end of DERMASPACE with clients paying a wide range of prices, depending on whatever category they fell into; employee perks, frequent client, new client, etc.
So....as of today, May 1, 2011, I am simplifying my life and creating a new price structure.
Iderm Facial Treatment: $75 regardless of how often you come.
(First time client intro price, $65, employee perks intro price, $60)*
*regular price after that.
If you have any questions please CONTACT me.
To book online please CHECK AVAILABILITY!
I'm writing you on a lovely spring day here in Seattle....FINALLY the sun is out and there is warmth in the air.
For the last year and a half I have offered Dermaculture's Iderm Facial Treatment for a very low price of $85. Normally this treatment goes for $125 in Los Angeles and New York. My goal is to help you achieve beautiful, healthy skin so I have tried to keep the treatment affordable so I established my base price of $85. If you were a frequent client (those who make the commitment to come every 2 weeks) then your price would be $75.
The intro price began at $50 then was raised to $65. I also had employee perks deals with Amazon, Seattle Children's Hospital and Seattle Cancer Care Alliance.
Well.....life happens. The kids get sick, you get sick, work becomes a burden and your spouse forgets to tell you about a company barbecue. Whatever the case sometimes clients have to cancel and reschedule appointment so instead of coming every 2 weeks it becomes every 3 or 4...then back on track, then off again, etc.....you get the picture.
I love my clients and of course would not make any of you who have been so loyal to me pay the higher price if you fall off track with your skin care maintenance. It was becoming increasingly difficult for me to manage the accounting end of DERMASPACE with clients paying a wide range of prices, depending on whatever category they fell into; employee perks, frequent client, new client, etc.
So....as of today, May 1, 2011, I am simplifying my life and creating a new price structure.
Iderm Facial Treatment: $75 regardless of how often you come.
(First time client intro price, $65, employee perks intro price, $60)*
*regular price after that.
If you have any questions please CONTACT me.
To book online please CHECK AVAILABILITY!
Wednesday, March 30, 2011
FDA OKs ipilimumab for melanoma - By: Bill Gillette, Dermatology Times E-News
Washington — The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has approved Bristol-Myers Squibb’s Yervoy (ipilimumab) for treatment of metastatic melanoma.
Yervoy is an injectable monoclonal antibody that blocks cytotoxic T-lymphocyte antigen (CTLA-4), which may play a role in inhibiting the immune system’s ability to fight off cancerous cells.
The drug’s safety and efficacy were established in a single international study of 676 melanoma patients, all of whom had stopped responding to other FDA-approved or commonly used treatments for melanoma. The subject patients’ melanomas either had spread or were inoperable.
The study was designed to measure the length of time from when treatment started until death occurred. The randomly assigned patients received Yervoy and an experimental tumor vaccine called gp100, Yervoy alone or the vaccine alone. Results show that those who received the combination of Yervoy plus the vaccine or Yervoy alone lived an average of about 10 months, while those who received only the experimental vaccine lived an average of 6.5 months.
Common side effects that can result from autoimmune reactions associated with Yervoy use include fatigue, diarrhea, skin rash, endocrine deficiencies and colitis. Severe to fatal autoimmune reactions were seen in 12.9 percent of patients treated with Yervoy. When severe side effects occurred, Yervoy was stopped and corticosteroid treatment started. Not all patients responded to this treatment. Patients who did respond in some cases did not see any improvement for several weeks.
Due to the unusual and severe side effects associated with Yervoy, the therapy is being approved with a Risk Evaluation and Mitigation Strategy to alert medical professionals. Patients will be provided with a medication guide to inform them about potential side effects.
Yervoy is an injectable monoclonal antibody that blocks cytotoxic T-lymphocyte antigen (CTLA-4), which may play a role in inhibiting the immune system’s ability to fight off cancerous cells.
The drug’s safety and efficacy were established in a single international study of 676 melanoma patients, all of whom had stopped responding to other FDA-approved or commonly used treatments for melanoma. The subject patients’ melanomas either had spread or were inoperable.
The study was designed to measure the length of time from when treatment started until death occurred. The randomly assigned patients received Yervoy and an experimental tumor vaccine called gp100, Yervoy alone or the vaccine alone. Results show that those who received the combination of Yervoy plus the vaccine or Yervoy alone lived an average of about 10 months, while those who received only the experimental vaccine lived an average of 6.5 months.
Common side effects that can result from autoimmune reactions associated with Yervoy use include fatigue, diarrhea, skin rash, endocrine deficiencies and colitis. Severe to fatal autoimmune reactions were seen in 12.9 percent of patients treated with Yervoy. When severe side effects occurred, Yervoy was stopped and corticosteroid treatment started. Not all patients responded to this treatment. Patients who did respond in some cases did not see any improvement for several weeks.
Due to the unusual and severe side effects associated with Yervoy, the therapy is being approved with a Risk Evaluation and Mitigation Strategy to alert medical professionals. Patients will be provided with a medication guide to inform them about potential side effects.
Wednesday, March 2, 2011
A Deeper Look at Sun Damage By: Jennifer Wild, DO
Posted: February 28, 2011, from the March 2011 issue of Skin Inc. Magazine.
The one aspect of the esthetic industry that will never change is the fact that everyone’s skin ages. There will always be a need for the correction of the visible signs of aging and, although there are now numerous treatment options available, the first step in treating any skin concern is determining what is happening within the dermis and epidermis that is causing the symptoms. It is well known that ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun are the No. 1 cause of visible aging, hence the popular term “sun damage.” By identifying the breakdown that occurs when the skin is exposed to the sun’s damaging rays and which ingredients can be used to limit or repair this breakdown, more deliberate treatment and product choices can be made.
Understanding sun-driven changes
External factors, such as sunlight, are responsible for many of the visible changes that take place in the skin. Although some minor alterations would occur regardless of a client’s amount of sun exposure, research indicates that up to 85% of visible aging is due to external factors.1 Client complaints regarding this damage are plentiful, and developing an understanding of how and when these changes take place will assist greatly in treatment. The following are among the most common presentations of cutaneous sun damage.
Deep wrinkling. This is not associated with the normal—or intrinsic—aging process; fine lines are normal, deep wrinkles are not. The sun’s UVA rays penetrate deeply into the dermis and cause the breakdown, disorganization and cross-linking of collagen. Cross-linking refers to what occurs when collagen fibers break down and fuse back together in a crisscross pattern. This process leads to reduced support and structure and, in the end, deep wrinkling. In addition, collagen and elastin breakdown is accelerated by an overproduction of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) enzymes. Important MMP include collagenase and elastase, which break down collagen and elastin, respectively. Studies have found that MMP are increased within minutes of UV exposure, making any time spent outdoors potentially destructive to the skin.2
Coarsening. This refers to keratinization of the skin, or the abnormal buildup of keratinocytes. Coarsening is responsible for the dull, thickened and rough-textured appearance often seen in more mature clients. Many refer to coarsening as an orange peel or leatherlike appearance. UVA and UVB radiation can cause an overproduction of epidermal cells, and stratum corneum thickness can double as a result of repeated sun exposure. This obvious, rough-textured appearance only occurs in certain cases of sun damage.
Dehydration. This is common in nearly all cases of sun damage. Dehydration of the skin involves a lack of water moisture. Many incorrectly believe that sebum production decreases with age. In fact, the dryness that is common in clients with aging skin is due to a decrease in the skin’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF). A drop in NMF levels occurs naturally with age, but is worsened by environmental exposure. Even the smallest disruption in this hydrating group of substances can significantly decrease surface moisture levels, and slow the desquamation and cell turnover process. Additionally, hyaluronidase, which is another MMP responsible for the degradation of hyaluronic acid, increases in response to the inflammation caused by UV rays and free radical damage. Clients suffering from sun damage may experience a thickened, dry stratum corneum that appears flaky, dull and rough. This dryness can be exacerbated by improper cleansing and moisturization practices, or the regular use of inherently drying ingredients, such as alcohol or glycolic acid.
Hyperpigmentation. This is one of the most common concerns for mature clients. The melanogenesis, or pigment-producing process, generates melanin in response to inflammation, and UV exposure significantly increases inflammation levels throughout the epidermis and dermis. Sun-induced hyperpigmentation most often appears as random, sporadic freckling that may be more prevalent on the higher, more exposed areas of the face, such as the top of the forehead or the bridge of the nose.
The culprits
Overall, there are dive crucial changes responsible for accelerated visible aging:
The degradation of collagen and elastin
The overproduction of MMP enzymes
A decrease in the skin’s NMF
An overproduction of epidermal cells
An increase in melanin production
The solutions
Now that you know what needs to be addressed, it is much simpler to choose effective ingredients for prevention and correction. See Ingredients That Address Sun Damage to help you identify ingredients that can help relieve your clients’ sun damage concerns.
In-spa treatments—particularly chemical peels and microdermabrasion—are highly recommended. The collagen-stimulating and exfoliating benefits associated with both types of procedures will significantly accelerate results. Research indicates that alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), trichloroacetic acid (TCA), salicylic acid and others stimulate the production of collagen when applied to the skin.3 In addition, each acid either dissolves dead skin cells or dissolves the bonds that hold them together, which will decrease surface buildup, increase cell turnover and support NMF retention. Microdermabrasion has also been shown to stimulate collagen production, and the mechanical exfoliating properties will smooth textural changes, such as wrinkling, and encourage healthy cell turnover rates.4
Practice prevention
Although it is true that each person will continue to age, there are measures that can be taken to limit the severity of visible skin aging. Prevention is, of course, ideal, and clients of all ages should use a broad-spectrum sunscreen each morning. Antioxidants and matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors (MMPi) are also important preventive steps, and some sunscreens are even formulated with protective antioxidants and MMPi ingredients for convenience. Once the damage is done, it is not too late. Clients should use a combination of corrective ingredients that address multiple concerns simultaneously for the fastest possible results. In-spa procedures will also significantly accelerate outcomes. By truly understanding what it is that is being treated, spa professionals of all experience levels can achieve consistent results with all of their clients, resulting in repeat business and retail sales.
REFERENCES
1. J Herschthal and J Kaufman, Cutaneous aging: a review of the process and topical therapies, Expert Review of Dermatology 2 753–761 (2007)
2. GJ Fisher, ZQ Wang and SC Datta, et al, Molecular basis of sun-induced premature skin ageing and retinoid antagonism, Nature 379 335–339 (1996)
3. MA Shiffman, SJ Mirrafati and SM Lam et al, Simplified Facial Rejuvenation, Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg, New York (2007)
4. BM Freedman, E Rueda-Pedraza and SP Waddell, The epidermal and dermal changes associated with microdermabrasion, Dermatol Surg 27 1031–1034 (2001)
Jennifer Wild, DO, is board-certified in family practice, and since 2004 has pursued an active interest in esthetics and skin care, including dermal injections, lasers, professional skin care treatments and products. Her vast knowledge in both the medical and esthetic industries has allowed her to excel within the industry as an advanced educator for PCA Skin.
The one aspect of the esthetic industry that will never change is the fact that everyone’s skin ages. There will always be a need for the correction of the visible signs of aging and, although there are now numerous treatment options available, the first step in treating any skin concern is determining what is happening within the dermis and epidermis that is causing the symptoms. It is well known that ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun are the No. 1 cause of visible aging, hence the popular term “sun damage.” By identifying the breakdown that occurs when the skin is exposed to the sun’s damaging rays and which ingredients can be used to limit or repair this breakdown, more deliberate treatment and product choices can be made.
Understanding sun-driven changes
External factors, such as sunlight, are responsible for many of the visible changes that take place in the skin. Although some minor alterations would occur regardless of a client’s amount of sun exposure, research indicates that up to 85% of visible aging is due to external factors.1 Client complaints regarding this damage are plentiful, and developing an understanding of how and when these changes take place will assist greatly in treatment. The following are among the most common presentations of cutaneous sun damage.
Deep wrinkling. This is not associated with the normal—or intrinsic—aging process; fine lines are normal, deep wrinkles are not. The sun’s UVA rays penetrate deeply into the dermis and cause the breakdown, disorganization and cross-linking of collagen. Cross-linking refers to what occurs when collagen fibers break down and fuse back together in a crisscross pattern. This process leads to reduced support and structure and, in the end, deep wrinkling. In addition, collagen and elastin breakdown is accelerated by an overproduction of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) enzymes. Important MMP include collagenase and elastase, which break down collagen and elastin, respectively. Studies have found that MMP are increased within minutes of UV exposure, making any time spent outdoors potentially destructive to the skin.2
Coarsening. This refers to keratinization of the skin, or the abnormal buildup of keratinocytes. Coarsening is responsible for the dull, thickened and rough-textured appearance often seen in more mature clients. Many refer to coarsening as an orange peel or leatherlike appearance. UVA and UVB radiation can cause an overproduction of epidermal cells, and stratum corneum thickness can double as a result of repeated sun exposure. This obvious, rough-textured appearance only occurs in certain cases of sun damage.
Dehydration. This is common in nearly all cases of sun damage. Dehydration of the skin involves a lack of water moisture. Many incorrectly believe that sebum production decreases with age. In fact, the dryness that is common in clients with aging skin is due to a decrease in the skin’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF). A drop in NMF levels occurs naturally with age, but is worsened by environmental exposure. Even the smallest disruption in this hydrating group of substances can significantly decrease surface moisture levels, and slow the desquamation and cell turnover process. Additionally, hyaluronidase, which is another MMP responsible for the degradation of hyaluronic acid, increases in response to the inflammation caused by UV rays and free radical damage. Clients suffering from sun damage may experience a thickened, dry stratum corneum that appears flaky, dull and rough. This dryness can be exacerbated by improper cleansing and moisturization practices, or the regular use of inherently drying ingredients, such as alcohol or glycolic acid.
Hyperpigmentation. This is one of the most common concerns for mature clients. The melanogenesis, or pigment-producing process, generates melanin in response to inflammation, and UV exposure significantly increases inflammation levels throughout the epidermis and dermis. Sun-induced hyperpigmentation most often appears as random, sporadic freckling that may be more prevalent on the higher, more exposed areas of the face, such as the top of the forehead or the bridge of the nose.
The culprits
Overall, there are dive crucial changes responsible for accelerated visible aging:
The degradation of collagen and elastin
The overproduction of MMP enzymes
A decrease in the skin’s NMF
An overproduction of epidermal cells
An increase in melanin production
The solutions
Now that you know what needs to be addressed, it is much simpler to choose effective ingredients for prevention and correction. See Ingredients That Address Sun Damage to help you identify ingredients that can help relieve your clients’ sun damage concerns.
In-spa treatments—particularly chemical peels and microdermabrasion—are highly recommended. The collagen-stimulating and exfoliating benefits associated with both types of procedures will significantly accelerate results. Research indicates that alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), trichloroacetic acid (TCA), salicylic acid and others stimulate the production of collagen when applied to the skin.3 In addition, each acid either dissolves dead skin cells or dissolves the bonds that hold them together, which will decrease surface buildup, increase cell turnover and support NMF retention. Microdermabrasion has also been shown to stimulate collagen production, and the mechanical exfoliating properties will smooth textural changes, such as wrinkling, and encourage healthy cell turnover rates.4
Practice prevention
Although it is true that each person will continue to age, there are measures that can be taken to limit the severity of visible skin aging. Prevention is, of course, ideal, and clients of all ages should use a broad-spectrum sunscreen each morning. Antioxidants and matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors (MMPi) are also important preventive steps, and some sunscreens are even formulated with protective antioxidants and MMPi ingredients for convenience. Once the damage is done, it is not too late. Clients should use a combination of corrective ingredients that address multiple concerns simultaneously for the fastest possible results. In-spa procedures will also significantly accelerate outcomes. By truly understanding what it is that is being treated, spa professionals of all experience levels can achieve consistent results with all of their clients, resulting in repeat business and retail sales.
REFERENCES
1. J Herschthal and J Kaufman, Cutaneous aging: a review of the process and topical therapies, Expert Review of Dermatology 2 753–761 (2007)
2. GJ Fisher, ZQ Wang and SC Datta, et al, Molecular basis of sun-induced premature skin ageing and retinoid antagonism, Nature 379 335–339 (1996)
3. MA Shiffman, SJ Mirrafati and SM Lam et al, Simplified Facial Rejuvenation, Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg, New York (2007)
4. BM Freedman, E Rueda-Pedraza and SP Waddell, The epidermal and dermal changes associated with microdermabrasion, Dermatol Surg 27 1031–1034 (2001)
Jennifer Wild, DO, is board-certified in family practice, and since 2004 has pursued an active interest in esthetics and skin care, including dermal injections, lasers, professional skin care treatments and products. Her vast knowledge in both the medical and esthetic industries has allowed her to excel within the industry as an advanced educator for PCA Skin.
Monday, February 21, 2011
"Why Preservatives Make a Better Mineral Makeup" By: Sam Dhatt
Hi folks.....I've been crazy busy with DERMASPACE business so it's been a while since I have posted anything on my blog. My deepest apologies. I will be posting more regularly. Below is an interesting article regarding mineral make-up. Stay tuned for more updates by my personally as well as DERMASPACE news. Hope everyone is well and if you have any questions about skin-care that might make for a good article topic feel free to email me at JodyLeon@Dermaspace.com.
"Why Preservatives Make a Better Mineral Makeup" By: Sam Dhatt
Posted: November 29, 2010, from the December 2010 issue of Skin Inc. Magazine.
Today’s women demand more from their skin care products—and makeup—than ever before. In particular, the anti-aging boom of the past decade has brought skin function into sharp focus for discerning consumers.
Makeup and skin care products now are seen by many in a long-term context, as part of a lifelong strategy to prevent and minimize damage and wear to the skin. And thus, women have grown increasingly wary of cosmetic ingredients, including the preservatives commonly used to keep the products fresh, free of spoilage and perfectly blended for product consistency.
As part of this quest for makeup that supports skin health while still offering coverage, color and textural features, mineral makeup, especially in its dry powder form, has become the darling of many eco-advocates. (See Natural vs. Chemical.) Mineral makeup is typically more sheer and subtle than its nonmineral counterparts, giving the skin a glowing finish with translucent titanium and zinc oxide that also provide broad-spectrum sun protection. Although some of the popularity of minerals is based upon scientific accuracy, other aspects are founded upon myth and misinformation that can, in fact, be dangerous to skin health, and may also lead to consumer dissatisfaction.
Key among these misguided beliefs is the idea that mineral makeup requires no preservative component. Many consumers seek out preservative-free mineral makeup, but this choice not only diminishes the shelf life and therefore the dollar value of the product, but also poses health risks to clients.
The myth of clean skin
“Cleanliness” is a relative and subjective term. Dermatologists and skin care product manufacturers, among others, realize this, but consumers may not. This, in turn, leads to misunderstanding. The human body, and in particular human skin, is a teeming microbial zoo. It is estimated that microbes on and in the body outnumber human cells ten-to-one.1 Many researchers consider human skin, the body’s largest organ, the final frontier of unexplored science, much as the ocean depths or the reaches of space were once viewed. Experts currently recognize at least 182 species of bacteria—fondly called “normal flora” by bacteriologists—as common residents of human skin. In fact, recent research revealed that 19 species alone live in the warm, shadowy areas behind the ears.2
Unless the skin is being disinfected for surgery, cleansing with conventional products, including over-the-counter antibacterial soaps, basically lightens the bioload, but does not fully eradicate all bacteria. Luckily, few of these visitors are lethal. The normal, healthy body tolerates the presence of most bacteria, presuming that the immune system is robust. In fact, the good bacteria present actually defend the skin against pathogen invaders.
Skin is always in a state of bacterial activity, even in the most sterile of settings. The bacteria recolonize as soon as they are disturbed by cleansing, arriving from the air, from everything that is touched and from within the human body itself.
Four established groups of bacteria live on human skin: propionibacteria, corynebacteria, staphylococcus and streptococcus. Those last two groups should give you pause. Staphylococcus aureus and streptococcus mutans, pneumoniae and pyogenes are pathogens. Staphylococcus aureus is the leading cause of bacterial disease in humans, while streptococcus pneumoniae causes 95% of all bacterial pneumonia.
Other commonly found pathogens on the skin include Escherichia coli—E. coli—and Enterococcus faecalis, a component of human intestinal flora used by many European countries as a standard indicator of pollution by sewage, much the way E.coli counts are taken in U.S. waters to determine their safety for drinking and swimming. Human skin typically also swarms with Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Candida albicans, Aspergillus niger, Neisseria meningitidis, Haemophilus influenzae and several forms of Clostridium, all potentially aggressive microbes that are normally kept in check by healthy immunosuppression. Molds, fungi and yeasts are also present, to a smaller degree.
But do you really want to grow your own colonies of these bacteria in your makeup bag?
Mineral promise, paraben parable
It is important to understand that, because the skin is a thriving community of microbes, everything that touches it becomes their transport system. A makeup brush or applicator scoops up innumerable microorganisms with even one pass over cleansed skin. Unless the applicator or brush is discarded or disinfected each time it touches the skin—realizing that a woman typically passes the brush or sponge over the skin several times per application of bronzer, base, eye shadow and blush—entire colonies are introduced back into the pan or jar of cosmetic product each day. They proliferate exponentially, awaiting the arrival of new colleagues with the next product use.
Bacteria thrive in moisture, and this has been part of the appeal of mineral makeup: they are dry powders. It stands to reason that because mineral makeup contains no water in the formulations, no preservatives are needed to prevent the microbial proliferation that is ubiquitous. But here’s where it gets sticky—literally. Even if manufacturers ship promptly and even if the product moves briskly in the retail environment, clients are notorious for hanging on to their favorite cosmetic products long after the manufacturer’s suggested expiration date.
Also consider that makeup is often stored in steamy, warm, damp places, such as the bathroom, and the surfaces and even the air of the bathroom is often laden with an abundance of intestinal flora. These persistently find their way into any product used there.
These microbial concentrations often cause mild infections and irritations. For instance, conjunctivitis is commonly caused by one of the Staph family, which is one of the largest groups of bacteria composing normal flora. Consumers may presume that ingredients listed on a cosmetic package are causing an allergic or inflammatory response in their skin, when in fact they may be reacting to the bacterial omnipresence.
Preservative alternatives
Given this knowledge, the case for preservatives—even in mineral makeup—is irrefutable. So the question becomes, what makes a great preservative? Parabens were the answer until recently. Parabens are a food-grade preservative derived from benzoic acid that operate as a broad-spectrum antimicrobial. Although links between parabens and disease are not conclusive, recent controversy and media concern has turned a large portion of public opinion against this once-common solution. (Editor’s note: See “The Truth About Parabens” by Carol and Robert Trow, which appeared in Skin Inc. magazine’s July 2010 issue.)
Because of this, manufacturers are faced with the challenge of finding a replacement system that is not only effective, but is also nonirritating, nonsensitizing, nontoxic and nonmutagenic, meaning that the preservative does not disturb the DNA configuration. The fact of the matter is that some manufacturers explicitly state that their products are preservative-free in order to court the preference of green consumers, when, in fact, for safety, the products are filled with preservatives. Misleading the consumer is illegal, and certainly never ethically correct, but the conundrum here is clear. Many alternative preservatives are too narrow in spectrum to be practical. Most vitamins and essential oils are not versatile or strong enough on their own to work as effective preservatives.
The new trends in preservative formulation focus upon phenoxyethanol blends, which enhance their effectiveness with preservative boosters such as caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol and ethylhexylglycerin. The spa industry continues to discover new solutions in the garden, with botanical-based compounds meeting the needs of consumers seeking safe, effective, gentle and truly natural products. For instance, a blend of honeysuckle and jojoba from BioNatural called Plantservative is now proven to prevent microbial action in mineral cosmetics.
Educating and re-educating clients about the need for preservatives in mineral makeup is part of the continuing quest to develop products that meet the diverse array of client demands, because only products that are manufactured with health and safety in mind are truly beautiful.
REFERENCES
1. www.independent.co.uk/news/science/human-skin-is-a-zoo-of-bacteria-scientists-say-435234.html
2. www.nih.gov/news/health/may2009/nhgri-28.htm
(Both accessed Oct 15, 2010)
Sam Dhatt is an award-winning cosmeceutical chemist who serves as the CEO and president of Hayward, California-based DermaQuest Skin Therapy and Allure Labs. During his more-than-20-year career as a sought-after formulator, he has developed and manufactured skin care products for more than 700 companies, including many of the best-known brands in the industry. Dhatt is a frequent author featured in many trade journals and skin care publications, and speaks on ingredients and formulation with the goal of increasing esthetician knowledge and success.
"Why Preservatives Make a Better Mineral Makeup" By: Sam Dhatt
Posted: November 29, 2010, from the December 2010 issue of Skin Inc. Magazine.
Today’s women demand more from their skin care products—and makeup—than ever before. In particular, the anti-aging boom of the past decade has brought skin function into sharp focus for discerning consumers.
Makeup and skin care products now are seen by many in a long-term context, as part of a lifelong strategy to prevent and minimize damage and wear to the skin. And thus, women have grown increasingly wary of cosmetic ingredients, including the preservatives commonly used to keep the products fresh, free of spoilage and perfectly blended for product consistency.
As part of this quest for makeup that supports skin health while still offering coverage, color and textural features, mineral makeup, especially in its dry powder form, has become the darling of many eco-advocates. (See Natural vs. Chemical.) Mineral makeup is typically more sheer and subtle than its nonmineral counterparts, giving the skin a glowing finish with translucent titanium and zinc oxide that also provide broad-spectrum sun protection. Although some of the popularity of minerals is based upon scientific accuracy, other aspects are founded upon myth and misinformation that can, in fact, be dangerous to skin health, and may also lead to consumer dissatisfaction.
Key among these misguided beliefs is the idea that mineral makeup requires no preservative component. Many consumers seek out preservative-free mineral makeup, but this choice not only diminishes the shelf life and therefore the dollar value of the product, but also poses health risks to clients.
The myth of clean skin
“Cleanliness” is a relative and subjective term. Dermatologists and skin care product manufacturers, among others, realize this, but consumers may not. This, in turn, leads to misunderstanding. The human body, and in particular human skin, is a teeming microbial zoo. It is estimated that microbes on and in the body outnumber human cells ten-to-one.1 Many researchers consider human skin, the body’s largest organ, the final frontier of unexplored science, much as the ocean depths or the reaches of space were once viewed. Experts currently recognize at least 182 species of bacteria—fondly called “normal flora” by bacteriologists—as common residents of human skin. In fact, recent research revealed that 19 species alone live in the warm, shadowy areas behind the ears.2
Unless the skin is being disinfected for surgery, cleansing with conventional products, including over-the-counter antibacterial soaps, basically lightens the bioload, but does not fully eradicate all bacteria. Luckily, few of these visitors are lethal. The normal, healthy body tolerates the presence of most bacteria, presuming that the immune system is robust. In fact, the good bacteria present actually defend the skin against pathogen invaders.
Skin is always in a state of bacterial activity, even in the most sterile of settings. The bacteria recolonize as soon as they are disturbed by cleansing, arriving from the air, from everything that is touched and from within the human body itself.
Four established groups of bacteria live on human skin: propionibacteria, corynebacteria, staphylococcus and streptococcus. Those last two groups should give you pause. Staphylococcus aureus and streptococcus mutans, pneumoniae and pyogenes are pathogens. Staphylococcus aureus is the leading cause of bacterial disease in humans, while streptococcus pneumoniae causes 95% of all bacterial pneumonia.
Other commonly found pathogens on the skin include Escherichia coli—E. coli—and Enterococcus faecalis, a component of human intestinal flora used by many European countries as a standard indicator of pollution by sewage, much the way E.coli counts are taken in U.S. waters to determine their safety for drinking and swimming. Human skin typically also swarms with Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Candida albicans, Aspergillus niger, Neisseria meningitidis, Haemophilus influenzae and several forms of Clostridium, all potentially aggressive microbes that are normally kept in check by healthy immunosuppression. Molds, fungi and yeasts are also present, to a smaller degree.
But do you really want to grow your own colonies of these bacteria in your makeup bag?
Mineral promise, paraben parable
It is important to understand that, because the skin is a thriving community of microbes, everything that touches it becomes their transport system. A makeup brush or applicator scoops up innumerable microorganisms with even one pass over cleansed skin. Unless the applicator or brush is discarded or disinfected each time it touches the skin—realizing that a woman typically passes the brush or sponge over the skin several times per application of bronzer, base, eye shadow and blush—entire colonies are introduced back into the pan or jar of cosmetic product each day. They proliferate exponentially, awaiting the arrival of new colleagues with the next product use.
Bacteria thrive in moisture, and this has been part of the appeal of mineral makeup: they are dry powders. It stands to reason that because mineral makeup contains no water in the formulations, no preservatives are needed to prevent the microbial proliferation that is ubiquitous. But here’s where it gets sticky—literally. Even if manufacturers ship promptly and even if the product moves briskly in the retail environment, clients are notorious for hanging on to their favorite cosmetic products long after the manufacturer’s suggested expiration date.
Also consider that makeup is often stored in steamy, warm, damp places, such as the bathroom, and the surfaces and even the air of the bathroom is often laden with an abundance of intestinal flora. These persistently find their way into any product used there.
These microbial concentrations often cause mild infections and irritations. For instance, conjunctivitis is commonly caused by one of the Staph family, which is one of the largest groups of bacteria composing normal flora. Consumers may presume that ingredients listed on a cosmetic package are causing an allergic or inflammatory response in their skin, when in fact they may be reacting to the bacterial omnipresence.
Preservative alternatives
Given this knowledge, the case for preservatives—even in mineral makeup—is irrefutable. So the question becomes, what makes a great preservative? Parabens were the answer until recently. Parabens are a food-grade preservative derived from benzoic acid that operate as a broad-spectrum antimicrobial. Although links between parabens and disease are not conclusive, recent controversy and media concern has turned a large portion of public opinion against this once-common solution. (Editor’s note: See “The Truth About Parabens” by Carol and Robert Trow, which appeared in Skin Inc. magazine’s July 2010 issue.)
Because of this, manufacturers are faced with the challenge of finding a replacement system that is not only effective, but is also nonirritating, nonsensitizing, nontoxic and nonmutagenic, meaning that the preservative does not disturb the DNA configuration. The fact of the matter is that some manufacturers explicitly state that their products are preservative-free in order to court the preference of green consumers, when, in fact, for safety, the products are filled with preservatives. Misleading the consumer is illegal, and certainly never ethically correct, but the conundrum here is clear. Many alternative preservatives are too narrow in spectrum to be practical. Most vitamins and essential oils are not versatile or strong enough on their own to work as effective preservatives.
The new trends in preservative formulation focus upon phenoxyethanol blends, which enhance their effectiveness with preservative boosters such as caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol and ethylhexylglycerin. The spa industry continues to discover new solutions in the garden, with botanical-based compounds meeting the needs of consumers seeking safe, effective, gentle and truly natural products. For instance, a blend of honeysuckle and jojoba from BioNatural called Plantservative is now proven to prevent microbial action in mineral cosmetics.
Educating and re-educating clients about the need for preservatives in mineral makeup is part of the continuing quest to develop products that meet the diverse array of client demands, because only products that are manufactured with health and safety in mind are truly beautiful.
REFERENCES
1. www.independent.co.uk/news/science/human-skin-is-a-zoo-of-bacteria-scientists-say-435234.html
2. www.nih.gov/news/health/may2009/nhgri-28.htm
(Both accessed Oct 15, 2010)
Sam Dhatt is an award-winning cosmeceutical chemist who serves as the CEO and president of Hayward, California-based DermaQuest Skin Therapy and Allure Labs. During his more-than-20-year career as a sought-after formulator, he has developed and manufactured skin care products for more than 700 companies, including many of the best-known brands in the industry. Dhatt is a frequent author featured in many trade journals and skin care publications, and speaks on ingredients and formulation with the goal of increasing esthetician knowledge and success.
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