The Skin Wizard

NEW BLOG HOME

2011-10-01T13:01:00.000-07:00

Hi folks.....

The Skin Wizard is relocating addresses......

The new blog can be found here....

http://theskinwizard.tumblr.com/

Thanks!!

Jody Leon

The Iderm Treatment Media Reel

2011-10-01T12:23:00.000-07:00

DERMASPACE is the only place north of San Francisco where you can get the Iderm Facial Treatment.

WATCH NOW

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0knuZaZpkM

Recognizing Rosacea By: Christian Jurist, MD

2011-09-21T10:09:00.001-07:00

Posted: August 29, 2011, from the September 2011 issue of Skin Inc. Magazine.

Rosacea is a chronic skin disorder characterized by microcirculation problems that primarily affect the face. It’s comprised of several related symptoms, such as couperose, or the dilation of facial blood vessels, and erythema, or redness. Extra-facial lesions on the neck and upper chest are not uncommon. The word “rosacea” comes from the Latin rosacea, derived from rosaceus meaning “pinklike.”

Approximately 16 million Americans and 45 million people worldwide suffer from rosacea. According to the National Rosacea Society (NRS), a Gallup survey found that 78% of Americans have no knowledge of this condition, including how to recognize it and what to do about it. (See Be Knowledgeable About Rosacea.) Although symptoms may occur during the teenage years, most people experience the onset of rosacea in their 30s, 40s or 50s, and it is more predominate in fair-skinned women. The precise cause of rosacea remains unknown, but research has shown that many factors are involved, such as genetic predisposition, heredity—especially European/Celtic descent, stomach dyspepsia and Helicobacter pylori infection, seborrhea, Demodex folliculorum mites, endocrine disorders, vitamin deficiency, liver disease and stress-related causes.

Discerning the enigma

Rosacea clients are generally prone to flushing and blushing mainly on the t-zone and cheeks. This can occur either spontaneously or can be precipitated by certain triggers that play a particular role in the development of this skin disorder, including the following.

Emotional stress
Heat and abrupt temperature changes
Caffeine
Sunlight and repeated sunburning
Alcoholic beverages
Spicy foods
Foods that contain histamine or cause the body to release histamine, such as tomatoes and pineapples
Medications, such as steroids

For example, a rosacea client may experience facial redness after drinking a hot beverage. One possible explanation would be that the heat from the beverage warms the blood irrigating the pharynx, which causes redirection of the blood flowing to the face from the brain, creating unwanted congestion at the facial level.

According to scientific belief, blood vessels become damaged when they are repeatedly dilated by stimuli, in part mediated by the hypothalamus. It has been proposed that the local release of vasoactive substances has an important implication in this pathology causing inflammation, stagnation and congestion of blood. Associated factors include minor vascular anatomical disorders, and dysfunction of the thermoregulatory vascular cooling system of the brain. These factors are partly responsible for causing blood backflow to the face with increased vessel pressure that secondarily affects the subpapillary venous plexus, leading ultimately to permanent vasodilation. Other very important factors that play a major role in damaging blood vessels include deterioration of the dermal matrix and the atrophy of supporting vessel tissues.

Also, pertaining to this disease and the role of microorganisms, greater numbers of D. folliculorum mites—part of the skin’s normal flora—are found in some rosacea clients who exhibit papulopustular eruptions. One theory proposes that changes in connective and vascular tissue provide a favorable environment for the mites to multiply. Potentially, the mites can cause an immunologic reaction that triggers an inflammatory response. This contributes to the aggravation of the symptoms.

Furthermore, it has been suggested that H. pylori,an ulcer-related agent, synthesizes gastrin in the stomach, which has been linked to promoting flushing. The participation of microorganisms in the development of this disorder continues to remain unclear at this time, as study results are inconclusive and inconsistent. Further research is necessary.

Evolution of the disease

The evolution of rosacea affecting the skin usually progresses from a mild stage, including redness and increased skin sensitivity, to a later stage, including papulopustular eruptions, commonly known as acne rosacea. As the condition evolves, it may present complications such as rhinophyma, a nose enlargement mostly affecting men, and rosacea fulminans, featuring pyoderma faciale abscesses and nodules. Fortunately, fulminans is a rare complication. Advanced and chronic schemes of the disease may additionally present sebaceous hyperplasias, fibrosis and lymphedema, or swelling. Ocular rosacea may be accompanied by inflammation inside the eyes, lids and surrounding area. In some cases, recurrent conjunctivitis and periorbital lymphedema are reasons why people consult their physicians.

The causative reasons for acne and acne rosacea are different. Acne originates primarily within the hair follicles and does not involve microcirculation; a very inflamed acne, though, can resemble rosacea, which results in the confusion. Acne rosacea, identified by inflamed and raised lesions over an erythematous area, develops as papules and pustules that may foster parasitic microorganisms. Unlike common acne breakouts, the problem is not from bacteria, retention hyperkeratosis (dead cell retention) and excess sebum, but from a combination of parasitic activity and tissue inflammation. Clients may or may not report oiliness of the skin; sometimes they may actually experience drying and peeling. For skin care professionals, the most interesting and easily recognizable features of acne rosacea versus acne are the absence of comedones and minimal scarring in the former, plus a logical correlation with the history of the condition, which can be identified during consultation.

Last but not least, there is also neck rosacea, which appears as a dilation of capillaries with diffused v-shaped reddish-brown discoloration on the sides of the neck, and a gooseflesh appearance of the skin. This occurs due to repeated exposure to sunlight or sunburn on rosacea-prone skin, causing partial atrophy of the epidermis and dermis, but sparing the tissue surrounding the hair follicles, therefore creating a bumpy look and feel.

Treating rosacea

At the moment, there is no complete cure for rosacea, but it can be greatly improved with treatment. Early stages of the disease are characterized by minor cosmetic disabilities. The good news is that not everyone affected will develop every stage of the disease. It is imperative that control and action are taken to avoid further deterioration of both the condition and the person’s wellness.

Rosacea demands skin care. Proper treatment of the skin is vital to improve the symptoms and enhance the client’s quality of life. There are many courses to addressing rosacea from a medical standpoint, as well as from the esthetic approach.

Current medical treatments, for the most part, are effective in controlling symptoms associated with D. folliculorum mites and prevalence of redness. Physicians usually agree on treating rosacea by combining topical and systemic therapies. Some topical agents have proven somewhat effective in suppressing flares and producing a reduction in the parasitic infestation, including, but not limited to, metronidazol and sulfacetamide. Popular systemic agents include tetracyclin and minocycline. As with most prescription therapies, side effects may be unavoidable, especially if the drugs are utilized long-term.

Laser and intense pulsed light (IPL) have shown remarkable results to improve facial flushing and erythema by targeting dilated blood vessels causing their atrophy and removal. LED light therapy has also proven somewhat beneficial for rosacea, especially when it comes to gentle healing and decreasing inflammation.

For the skin care specialist in the field of esthetics, there are ready-to-use alternatives to help combat the disease and satisfy clients’ demands. However, if medical attention is needed, the skin care specialist should work with a physician to provide a complete wellness solution that will achieve maximum results for the concerned individual.

A natural and effective option

It is very important that skin care products for rosacea-affected individuals include ingredients, such as green tea, licorice, chamomile and French rose essential oils, and allantoin, capable of addressing microcirculatory and inflammatory problems. Camouflage makeup is another viable topical option to address visible redness. Makeup, preferably mineral, should be hypoallergenic, noncomedogenic, easy to apply, sweatproof and offer SPF protection. But even if makeup is not worn, conscious sun avoidance and a minimum SPF 30 is highly recommended to preserve the skin’s well-being when outdoors for more than 15 minutes under broad sunlight.

Skin care professionals are the next in line to offer affected clients quality of life and the best relief possible from rosacea symptoms. Many professional skin care brands offer safe and effective tools to control the evolution of rosacea and reduce the skin undermining caused by this disorder. Be sure to check with clients’ physicians if they are being medically treated for rosacea. Then, recommend specifically designed whole skin regimens and treatments to target the condition with effective ingredients. It will help guarantee client satisfaction through visible and measurable results for years to come.

Christian Jurist, MD, is a physician who specializes in esthetic medicine and has belonged to several international esthetic medicine professional associations. After leading a medical esthetics curriculum at Florida College of Natural Health as a faculty member in the United States, Jurist joined Pevonia and Medicalia International as medical director of global education. His long-term experience has comprised multiple face and body therapies, plus many years of teaching experience. He also has written professional articles in recognized media publications, and conducted numerous educational seminars, professional trade show conferences, school classes and special events domestically and worldwide.

Introducing "Maitri Heart"

2011-09-14T18:23:00.000-07:00

Maitri is at the core of everything I do here at DERMASPACE.

I believe that true beauty begins by accepting ourselves for who we are and learning to cultivate unconditional friendship and love towards ourselves.

Maitri means exactly that, unconditional love and friendship toward ourself.

I have created Maitri Heart as a way to remind my clients that beauty begins within. It's a blog where I can post inspirational quotes and also allow my clients to share stories.

Join the discussion and cultivate your own Maitri Heart!!

ABC News features the IDerm Facial Treatment aka Galvanic Facial

2011-08-31T11:03:00.000-07:00

Check this out!!!

ABC NEWS

A great article on mixing Sunscreens & Insect Repellent!!

2011-08-26T18:43:00.000-07:00

Check this out!!

Mixing Sunscreens & Insect Repellent.

Local Twist Vouchers

2011-08-23T11:53:00.001-07:00

Hi folks....

Just a reminder that all unredeemed Local Twist vouchers expire on Sept 1.

If you book your appointment before the 1st, regardless of when the actual appt is....I will still accept your voucher.

Book now at DERMASPACE.

On The Radio!!!

2011-08-20T14:17:00.001-07:00

On August 11th I had the previlage and joy to be interviewed by a dear client of mine, Marie Manuchehri.

Marie is an energy medicine healer who is the perfect bridge between conventional and holistic medicine. She was raised in a family that appreciates preventive medicine, including the importance of eating nutritional organic foods and taking healthy supplements. Yet, it was during her work as an oncology nurse that she discovered and developed her skills as an energy medicine practitioner. The hospital turned out to be the ideal place to understand the energetic relationship between health and disease.

A self taught healer, Marie learned to connect conventional medicine’s understanding of disease—as it was described in a patient’s chart—to what she could intuitively understand about how a patient’s condition related to his or her energy system. Over time, she learned to identify stagnant energy—a sign of disease—and move it out of the body, making room for free healthier energy to move in and work its healing magic. Freely flowing energy can release pain, disease, and help people move in a positive direction—toward health, wealth, and fulfilling relationships and careers. Marie also discovered she is a medium, with the ability to connect with those living on the other side. She uses her talents as an energy medicine practitioner and as a medium to help people heal their wounds and expand consciousness.

I had so much fun and if you would like to listen to my interview you can do so by clicking HERE!!

For more information about Marie....visit her website!

Introducing DERMASPACE THERAPY'S TRIPLE C&E COMPLEX

2011-08-09T18:24:00.000-07:00

TRIPLE C&E COMPLEX

Stabilized Vitamins C & E For Sun Damaged Skin

Dry, lackluster | Lacking firmness or elasticity | Frequent blackheads or clogged pores, Deepening lines around the eyes, mouth, cheeks or jawline.

ACTIONS

• Youthful radiance begins to return within minutes

• Obvious lines around eyes, mouth, cheeks and jawline appear to diminish within weeks

• Evenness of skin tone starts to improve within days

• Blackheads and clogged pores begin to clear within days

DESCRIPTION A blend of three unique, time-released, targeted delivery systems slowly diffuse three stabilized forms of Vitamin C and three forms of Vitamin E throughout the skin, creating a reservoir of vitamins at all levels that helps visually repair years of sun damage within weeks.

The three forms of targeted Vitamin C absorb more efficiently, magnifying Vitamin C’s antioxidant, cell protective power up to six times. This means lower percentages of Vitamin C produce maximum results without risk of irritation or vitamin oxidation.

Known to be synergistic in their effects, Vitamin C recycles Vitamin E as an antioxidant, increasing Vitamin E’s free radical-scavenging effects fifty times normal. These vitamins also help prevent sebum oxidation, working together to reduce and prevent blackheads and clogged pores.

Within days to weeks, skin’s youthful radiance is revived, obvious lines and wrinkles diminish in appearance, normal skin tone begins to return, and blockages in pores are reduced or eliminated – without the irritating effects of other extra-strength Vitamin C products.

Note | The three delivery vehicles in Triple C&E Complex ensure the equivalent of 14% free Vitamin C is delivered into the skin. Because the Vitamin C is time-released and slowly converted to its acid state over several hours, irritation is significantly reduced or eliminated. The delivery vehicles also ensure the Vitamin C level stays constant throughout the shelf-life of the product, producing maximum vitamin stability and activity of a year or longer. Formulas that contain 10-20% Vitamin C frequently do so to offset the amount of Vitamin C that is oxidized throughout the product’s lifetime. Within six months, retesting of high percentage Vitamin C products shows their content can diminish to 2% or less, with the remainder of the Vitamin C oxidized – which is apparent as the product begins to turn brown. Oxidized Vitamin C can irritate the skin and cause blocked pores.

Triple C&E Complex is a gentle, no-sting formula that is tested and proven safe for sensitive skin.

When stored in a cool, darkened area, the stability of this formula is guaranteed for a minimum of one year. Does not contain synthetic fragrance, colorants or parabens.

ACTION INGREDIENTS

Ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate | water-soluble, stabilized, time-released vitamin C Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate | water-soluble, stabilized, time-released Vitamin C Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate | lipid-soluble, stabilized, time-released vitamin C Tocopheryl acetate | vitamin E ester, keeps skin lipids fresh, protects natural radiance

Tocopheryl linoleate | moisturizing vitamin E, forms comforting pillow of moisture in skin for 16-20 hours Tocopherol | antioxidant vitamin E, fights lipid and sebum oxidation, discourages blackheads Bioflavonoids | vitamin C ‘bridging’ agent, delivers vitamin C to skin cells to ensure activity

Rose hips seed oil | helps repair skin’s natural moisture zone, revives radiance from within

Dipotassium glycyrrhizate | powerful soothing molecule from licorice, calms on contact

COMPLETE INGREDIENT DISCLOSURE

Water (base), sunflower (helianthus annuus) seed oil (emollient), stearic acid (emulsifier), dioctyl succinate (emollient), tocopheryl linoleate (moisturizing vitamin E), dimethicone (breathable barrier), PEG-8/SMDI copolymer (vitamin C time-release agent), tetrahexyldecyl ascor- bate (stabilized vitamin C), cyclopentasiloxane (slip agent), cetyl alcohol (emulsifier), lemon bioflavonoids (boosts action of vitamin C), ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate (time-released vitamin C), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (time released vitamin C), methyl gluceth 20 (hydrating), shea butter (butyrospermum parkii) (emollient), tocopheryl acetate (stabilized vitamin E), PEG-25 soy sterol (emulsifier), polysorbate 80 (emulsifier), rose hips (rosa canina) seed oil (emollient), grapefruit (citrus grandis) extract (skin softener), grapefruit (citrus grandis) oil (emollient), sodium phytate (antioxidant), PEG-8 (emulsifier), tocopherol (antioxidant vitamin E), ascorbyl palmitate (freshness preservative) , ascorbic acid (freshness preservative), citric acid (freshness preservative), carbomer (emulsion stabilizer), lemon (citrus medica limonum) extract (natural fragrance), lemon (citrus medica limonum) peel oil (fragrant essential oil), orange (citrus aurantium dulcis) peel oil (fragrant essential oil), dipotassium glycyrrhizate (soothing), xanthan gum (emulsion stabilizer), sunflower (helianthus annuus) seed oil (emollient), rosemary (rosmarinus officinalis) leaf extract (antioxidant), methylisothiazolinone (antimicrobial preservative), phenoxyethanol (antimicrobial preservative), ethylhexylglycerin (skin conditioner), butylene glycol (hydrating), tromethamine (pH adjuster).

DIRECTIONS

Home Care | Smooth 1-3 pumps of fluid over clean skin before applying moisturizer, sunscreen or makeup. May also be applied to chest and back of hands. To reduce friction and help prevent redness that can occur during application, warm Triple C&E Complex between fingertips by quickly rubbing hands together, then lightly pat and press product into the skin. If used with other treatments, layer over water-based complexes, and under moisturizer. Avoid irritation from strong AHA products by applying Triple C&E Complex during day, AHAs at night. Avoid eye area if tearing occurs.

Available at DERMASPACE - $65

Cool Photo from German Vogue!!!

2011-07-20T22:03:00.000-07:00

Recently German Vogue did and article called "Perfect Beauty" and featured in the main photo was the treatment I offer at DERMASPACE, The Iderm Facial Treatment. I am the only clinical Esthetician north of San Francisco who offers this treat.

Great photo by Torkil Gudnason. The mask is actually backwards for dramatic interpretation and there is WAY more to the treatment than what this photo infers. Come see for yourself!!

You can learn more about this treatment by visiting my website.

DERMASPACE

The Magic of Cell Youth ActÍf

2011-07-19T15:00:00.000-07:00

Cell Youth ActÍf: A DERMASPACE High Performance Treatment

Activates Youthful Skin in 14 Different Ways For Mature or Maturing Skin

DESCRIPTION: Activate and restore the youthful nature of your skin with this exclusive combination of five anti-aging cell technologies. As its lightweight texture melts into the skin, this serum works overtime to correct 14 signs of aging including:

1. Lines & wrinkles minimized
2. Firmness repaired
3. Contours redefined
4. Clarity revealed
5. Tone evened
6. Hydration intensified
7. Smoothness refined
8. Radiance awakened
9. Redness calmed
10. Puffiness eliminated
11. Sun damage diminished
12. Fragile skin strengthened
13. Vitality recharged
14. Repair enhanced

The culmination of over a decade of scientific research and multiple patents, this revolutionary serum is the first to address the 5 key processes known by reparative and regenerative biologists to have the most impact on cellular aging. This skin transforming serum contains five different anti-aging cell technologies:

Problem | Activation-resistant stem cells
Solution | Activate youthful skin where it begins | As you age, skin cells die, youthful proteins decline and moisture-holding lipids decrease. Waiting to receive the molecular message to take the place of dying cells are reservoirs of adult stem cells hidden in microscopic niches within your skin. Recently, scientists discovered messengers in a North Atlantic alga reactivate dormant stem cells1 found in mature skin.

Within days, skin is energized. Within weeks, skin appears regenerated. Contours become more defined, firmness returns, lines smooth and wrinkles are less noticeable.

Problem | Loss of cellular water
Solution | Boost cellular water | Vital for life-giving hydration, aquaporins are newly discovered cell membrane proteins known to channel water into cells. Unfortunately, these water channels decline with age. Skin may be hydrated, but little water is delivered inside cells. Skin looks flat, dull, lackluster.

Remarkably, molecules from the Brazilian tree Piptadenia colubrina increases the presence of aquaporins.

ACTIONS

· Activates youthful skin 14 ways
· Addresses the 5 key processes biologists believe have most impact on cellular aging
· Fourteen different signs of aging are corrected within 2 days to 3 months
· Unlike any other anti-aging formula on the market
· Contains 5 anti-aging technologies in 1 perfect solution
· Over a decade of research, multiple patents
· 85% natural (including water)
· Amplifies effects of treatment modalities & procedures

Geared for Aging, Mature and Menopausal Skin | Skin lacking firmness | Sun-Damaged Skin | Dull, tired, devitalized skin | Dehydrated and flaking skin | Red, Sensitive, Rosacea-prone skin.

Action Ingredients:

· Hydrolyzed Algin | creates revitalizing environment to awaken skin’s dormant stem cells. Activates youthful firmness and smoother, healthier-looking skin.
· Piptadenia Colubrina Peel Extract | molecules from this Brazilian tree increase the presence of aquaporins – the water channels in cell membranes – resulting in hydrated cells and more youthful looking and acting skin.
· Arabidopsis Extract | contains enzymes that repair the most common form of DNA damage; skin begins to look younger within days.
· Peumus Boldus Leaf Extract | a rich source of Resveratrol – a powerful antioxidant and sirtuin booster believed to protect against DNA damage and cell death, boost cellular antioxidant defenses and increase the lifespan of cells. Improves elasticity, reduces sensitivity and addresses deeper signs of aging.
· Ergothioneine | the cell’s principal energizing antioxidant, restores power to cells, quenching age-producing radicals and supporting cellular activities from detoxification to the production of youthful proteins; within days, visible redness is calmed, signs of repair are enhanced, and an even tone and clarity begin to return to skin.

In a four-week consumer test, 4 out of 5 people who used this product twice a day reported the following:

• On contact | skin is visibly smooth, comfortably hydrated
• Within 2 days | redness & puffiness are dramatically reduced
• Within 2 weeks | radiance, vitality & repair are clearly enhanced
• Within 6 weeks |clarity, lines, firmness & sun damage are noticeably improved
• Within 3 months | wrinkles may be radically diminished & contours redefined

This lightweight serum won’t flake, crack, peel or discolor. When stored in a cool, dark area, the stability of this formula is guaranteed for at least one year.

Does not contain parabens, formaldehyde-donor preservatives, fragrance, essential oils, colorants, phthalates, bisphenol A, propylene glycol, dioxine, or toluene.

FRAGRANCE: None
pH: 5.4
SOLUBILITY: Water-based creme-gel
COMPLETE
INGREDIENT
DISCLOSURE
Water (base), cyclopentasiloxane (evaporative slip agent), glycerin (hydrating), safflower (carthamus tinctorius) oleosomes
(natural emulsifiers), dimethicone crosspolymer (thickener), PEG-8/SMDI copolymer (delivery vehicle), butylene glycol
(hydrating), hydrolyzed algin (cell energizer), betaine (hydrating), ergothioneine (cell energizer), arabidopsis extract (DNA
repair enzymes), laminaria digitata extract (cell energizer), sea whip (pseudopterogorgia elizabethae) extract (extra-strength
soothing), aminoguanidine HCI (anti-glycation, firming), decarboxy carnosine HCl (anti-glycation, firming), peumus boldus
leaf extract (antioxidant), polygonum cuspidatum root extract (Japanese knotweed, reservatrol source), piptadenia
colubrina peel extract (cell hydrator), lecithin (forms liposomes), folic acid (micronutrient), pentylene glycol (humectant),
dimethicone (slip agent), ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer (thickener), xanthan gum (slip agent), laureth-23
(mild emulsifier), laureth-4 (mild emulsifier), phenoxyethanol (antimicrobial preservative), ethylhexylglycerin (skin conditioner).

Home Care | AM/PM Directions | After cleansing, place 6 pumps of serum into palm. While skin is still moist, with third finger apply serum first around eyes, sweeping outward to hairline, neckline, décolletage and behind neck. Immediately apply moisturizer followed by SPF 15 or higher during the day.
2-3Xs a week thin skin’s barrier with micro-exfoliant. Recommend Crystal
Clarity Microdermabrasion Crème for the most thorough exfoliating action.

$99 available at DERMASPACE

The Importance of Vitamin C.

2011-07-12T19:36:00.000-07:00

As some of you know DERMASPACE infuses the skin with healthy vitamins and minerals. One of those ingredients is Vitamin C which is necessary for the growth and repair of body tissues. It is needed to form collagen, an important protein the body used to make skin, ligaments and blood vessels. Collagen is also used to make scar tissue, making vitamin C crucial in healing: If you burn, cut, scrape or otherwise wound your skin, it helps generate new skin and repairs the damaged tissue. Vitamin C is also essential to the healing and maintenance of bones and teeth.

Read more: HERE

Peptides: Ready for Primetime? By: Ahmed Abdullah, MD, FACS

2011-07-07T06:18:00.001-07:00

Peptides: Ready for Primetime?
By: Ahmed Abdullah, MD, FACS

Posted: June 28, 2011, from the July 2011 issue of Skin Inc. Magazine.

During the past decade, peptides have taken on growing prominence in the skin care category. They’ve become so popular, in fact, that countless skin care products proudly feature them on their ingredient lists, whether sold by physicians and licensed skin care professionals, or department stores and drugstores. The excitement surrounding peptides isn’t simply reserved for product formulators and marketers, however. Take a look at the skin care conversation among consumers online, and you’ll find plenty of individuals pronouncing the positive impact peptide formulations have had on their skin. There’s little doubt that consumers are beginning to consider them the next big thing.

Yet, despite the vigor with which skin care brands promote peptide formulations and the growing consumer appetite for such products, their benefits have not yet been fully proven in the scientific arena. Certainly, potential exists, but so do limitations. Whether peptides truly are a panacea or simply another ingredient propelled into the spotlight may not yet be known for several years. Until then, it’s essential for skin care professionals to be well-versed on the topic, because, most certainly, your clients will soon be asking your opinion of peptides, if they haven’t already.

The science

Peptides are biologically active compounds that closely resemble proteins—both are chains of amino acids. The difference? Peptide chains include fewer amino acids. Generally, a chain with more than 50 amino acids is a protein while those with fewer is a peptide. However, there are exceptions. Peptides are classified according to their length. Therefore, you’ll often encounter terms such as dipeptides—two amino acids; tripeptides—three; tetrapeptides—four; pentapeptides—five; and so on. Although there are probably thousands of naturally occurring peptides, to date, only several hundred have been characterized.1

Peptides play an array of important roles in the body, depending on the type. They may reduce inflammation, enhance antioxidant defense mechanisms, regulate bodily functions and even offer analgesic properties. In cosmeceuticals, three types of peptides are used, including:

Signal peptides that encourage fibroblasts to increase production of collagen while decreasing the breakdown of existing collagen;
Neurotransmitter peptides that limit muscle contraction and, thus, are said to mimic the effects of botulinum toxin; and
Carrier peptides that stabilize and deliver trace elements necessary for wound-healing and enzymatic processes.
Given that signs of skin aging, including fine lines and wrinkles, are caused by a breakdown of collagen and elastin—the proteins that give skin strength and elasticity, as well as slow cellular turnover—the abilities of these peptides seem the perfect match for skin care formulations. However, not only are peptides expensive to utilize, in their natural state they also have shortcomings that significantly limit their potential in skin care applications. These shortcomings include the following.

Peptides have a large molecular size and are hydropholic (water-liking), so they are unable to penetrate the lipopholic (fat-liking) stratum corneum layer of the epidermis.2 Despite this, peptides are generally unstable in water-based formulations. The presence of water breaks down the peptide bond, rendering it inactive.3
Should peptides be absorbed, the abundant presence of enzymes found in the skin can also break down peptide bonds.4
Fortunately, peptides are easily modified to improve their characteristics relative to use in skin care formulations. Chemists have found creative ways to overcome their limitations, such as attaching a fatty acid component to improve absorption into the skin, specific activity and economic feasibility.

Popular peptides

In skin care today, only approximately 25 peptides are routinely utilized due to various limitations, including high cost and absorption capabilities.5 Some of the more popular types are palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, acetyl hexapeptide-8 and GHK-C.

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4. A signal peptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (previously referred to as palmitoyl pentapeptide-3) is sold commercially as Matrixyl. The compound developed by Sederma adds palmitic acid to the peptide chain to improve penetration. Hailed as a very promising cosmeceutical ingredient during the 20th World Congress of Dermatology in Paris, 2002, company research showed palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 produced substantial improvements in wrinkle appearance more quickly than retinol and without causing irritation.6

Acetyl hexapeptide-8. A neurotransmitter peptide, acetyl hexapeptide-8 (previously referred to as acetyl hexapeptide-3) is sold commercially as Argireline. This compound, manufactured by Lipotec, has often been compared to botulinum toxin, due to its ability to inhibit the reactions that cause muscles to contract. Although it is certainly less potent than botulinum toxin, a study showed that acetyl hexapeptide-8 displayed remarkable anti-wrinkle activity when applied topically.7

GHK-Cu. Enthusiasm surrounding the use of peptides in skin care began with copper peptide GHK-Cu, which was discovered by Loren Pickart, MD, in 1973.8 A carrier peptide, GHK-Cu has been shown to be effective in wound-healing and reducing fine lines and the depths of wrinkles, among other attributes.9, 10

Matrixyl 3000. Peptides are also used in combination, as in the case of Matrixyl 3000. Manufactured by Sederma, Matrixyl 3000 is a combination of palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7. Together, these peptides are reported to decrease wrinkle density, volume and depth.11

Overcoming hurdles

Although chemists have found ways to optimize peptides for use in topical skin care formulations, they still face hurdles before they can generate the results anticipated by the consumers who buy them. Assuming the peptide has been modified to improve its stability in skin care formulations, through chemistry, the use of appropriate product packaging and its ability to penetrate the skin, it’s still essential that the product feature an effective delivery system to reach the target area where collagen synthesis, wound-healing and other activities may occur. Only when the peptide is absorbed by the skin and delivered to the targeted area in a stable form will it stand the potential of generating results.1

Formulators are certainly rising to this challenge. Sophisticated new delivery systems are regularly being developed, and the onus is on skin care professionals to stay on top of these new developments to ensure the products they are recommending stand a strong chance of truly providing their marketed benefits.

Another challenge: To be effective, peptides must be utilized in appropriate concentrations. Unfortunately, ingredient concentrations within a formulation are rarely disclosed on the label. Given the generally high cost of peptides, some manufacturers use them in concentrations below those utilized in scientific research or recommended by the peptide manufacturer. This is a marketing trick that allows the company to tout the use of a certain peptide and charge a lower price for the product. However, the formulation is nearly certain to be ineffective. Because of this, it is important to request and obtain backup research for product claims from manufacturers.

Speaking of research, although some third-party studies do exist that demonstrate positive outcomes from the use of peptides in skin care, there remains the issue of consumer expectations. For example, acetyl hexapeptide-8 is incapable of delivering results similar to that of botulinum toxin injections. Yet, this mantra is still promoted by many consumers and even individuals within the industry when referring to this compound. Because of this, consumer expectations are often out of line with the true capabilities of some peptide products. To be clear, if peptides were indeed able to produce results that matched much of the hype, they would be classified as drugs and require U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) approval for use. To that point, it’s often necessary to downplay much of the hype surrounding the use of these ingredients until a stronger base of unbiased research exists.

The future

With so much excitement surrounding peptides, the field of researchers investigating their potential is broadening, and their work is proving fruitful. In just the past few years, several new studies have demonstrated a wider potential for the use of peptides. For example, it is believed that the antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory characteristics of certain peptides may prove useful in the treatment of psoriasis, dermatitis and eczema.12, 13 As the development of synthesized peptides continues to move forward, it is expected the applications for peptides in skin care may broaden to include UV protection, treatment of an array of skin disorders, greater use as a melanin suppressant and much more.

However, while peptides are indeed showing promise as a capable and perhaps even impressive anti-aging ingredient, it’s important that their use be realistically approached. Currently, much of the enthusiasm surrounding their use is being fueled by consumer anecdotes of successful results. Although these are useful, they cannot be the measuring stick by which the ingredients you recommend are determined.

Until the true potential of peptides is better understood, it’s important to err on the side of caution by providing clients with the facts so they have realistic expectations before they purchase a peptide-based skin care product.

REFERENCES

1. MP Lupo and AL Cole, Cosmeceutical peptides, Dermatologic Therapy 20 5 343–349 (2007)

2. C Cullander and RH Guy, Routes of delivery: case studies (6). Transdermal delivery of peptides and proteins, Advanced Drug Delivery News Rev8 291–329 (1992)

3. A Gonzalez, Cosmetology Global Media 2007

4. K Lintner and O Peschard, Biologically active peptides: from a laboratory bench curiosity to a functional skin care product, International Journal of Cosmetic Science 22 207–218 (2000)

5. L Zhang and TJ Falla, Cosmeceuticals and peptides, Clinics in Dermatology 27 485–494 (2009)

6. CL Guttman, Studies demonstrate value of procollagen fragment Pal-KTTKS, Dermatology Times 23 9 (Sep 2002)

7. C Blanes-Mira, J Clemente, G Jodas, A Gil, et al, A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity, International Journal of Cosmetic Science 24 303–310 (2002)

8. L Pickart and MM Thaler, Tripeptide in human serum which prolongs survival of normal liver cells and stimulates growth in neoplastic liver, Nature New Biology 243 124 85–87 (1973)

9. Y Wegrowski, FX Maquart and JP Borel, Stimulation of sulfated glycosaminoglycan synthesis by the tripeptide-copper complex glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine-Cu2+, Life Sciences 51 13 1049–1056 (1992)

10. MB Finkley, Y Appa and S Bhandarkar, Copper peptide and skin. Cosmeceuticals and Active Cosmetic, New York, 549–563 (2005)

11. digitalebookden.com/two-matrikines-to-fight-sign-of-ageing.html (Accessed Apr 29, 2011)

12. S Namjosh and HAE Benson, Cyclic peptides as potential therapeutic agents for skin disorders, Biopolymers 94 5 673–680 (2010)

13. PY Ong, T Ohtake, C Brandt, et al, Endogenous microbial peptides and skin infections in atopic dermatitis, New England Journal of Medicine 347 1151–1160 (2002)

Ahmed Abdullah, MD, FACS, a board-certified plastic and cosmetic surgeon, is CEO, co-founder and formulator of Lexli International, Inc. He is a member of the International Aloe Science Council (IASC) based in Dallas, and has served on its board. Abdullah is a clinical associate professor of plastic surgery at the University of North Dakota School of Medicine in Grand Forks, North Dakota, and owns and practices at Plastic Surgery Institute PC and the Lexli Skin Care Center, both of which are based in Fargo, North Dakota.

Are tanning beds a good source of vitamin D?

2011-06-30T12:04:00.001-07:00

The answer is NO....end of story.

Check out the article HERE.

Slight change in service at DERMASPACE

2011-06-29T14:48:00.001-07:00

Effective immediately the "Hand & Arm Massage" will be discontinued until further notice due to an ongoing shoulder issue. Please accept my apologies and thank you for your understanding.

Great article in the New York Times!

2011-06-02T10:03:00.000-07:00

I began my career at The Face Place in 1995 and now offer this amazing treatment in Seattle. Check out this article by clicking HERE.

Fundamentals of Laser Science By: Zoe D. Draelos, MD, and Peter T. Pugliese, MD

2011-05-04T15:33:00.000-07:00

Posted fro SkinInc.: March 28, 2011

A basic understanding of the physics of lasers and how laser light interacts with skin is essential information for any esthetician who plans to move ahead in this industry. Estheticians need to understand the basics of laser science and to appreciate the wide range of its applications to skin care.

Lasers can be used to destroy or physically remove unwanted tissue. The old methods as well as the more recently used resurfacing laser treatments fall into this category. With resurfacing, skin actually is removed either superficially or more deeply. Resurfacing causes tissue loss; laser stimulation doesn’t destroy tissue. The problem with this is that skin repairs itself perfectly at the time of injury only if enough of the cells that regenerate skin remain; that is, if the basal layer of the epidermis is left intact. The deeper the removal of the dermis, the less perfect is the subsequent repair. For example, the new skin can be left whiter and thinner than normal. Furthermore, only skin on the face can be treated this way as the dermis on the body is much thinner and mechanical removal of even slight depth could cause scarring.

The alternative way of using laser light is to use it to stimulate the patient’s body to produce the desired repair without any mechanical destruction. This requires meticulous attention to the technique of application, which also has to be very gentle. It is slower than resurfacing, but the benefits far outweigh the investment of time. The skin repairs itself perfectly, provided it is not accidentally or purposefully interfered with during the healing process. The genetic code in the basal cells and fibroblasts acts as the master plan that the body uses as the method by which to heal itself. Extensive destruction of regenerative epidermal cells removes this data from the master plan. When laser light is used in these very gentle modes, it simply acts as a trigger to start this re-healing process, just as any gentle rejuvenation process.

Actually all lasers can be used in this gentle fashion. The laser chosen will depend on where in the skin the repair needs to occur. As you now know, different colors of laser light will penetrate to different depths. The carbon dioxide laser is capable of the deepest penetration, able to reach collagen and beyond. It is used to stimulate dermal collagen repair resulting in rejuvenating skin, or repairing scars and stretch marks. It takes gentle stimulation requiring a special care so that the temperature delivered to the tissue remains specific. See The Effects of Temperature on Tissue.

Laser technology is fast developing, but the training and associated skills still are lacking. Recommending one of your clients for laser treatment imposes considerable responsibility on the esthetician. Having a laser and knowing how use it are not the same things. A pilot skilled in flying a single engine airplane would not dream of trying to fly a multi-engine airplane without adequate training by an experienced pilot. A few days training, or even a month of training with a laser is not adequate to qualify a physician as an expert. The esthetician should get a good background on the physician’s training and experience with lasers before referring a client.

Order online at www.Allured.com/bookstore, or call 1-630-653-2155. Volume discounts available.

Allured Books is a division of Allured Business Media, a global information leader in the personal care, beauty, professional skin care, and fragrance and flavor industries for more than 90 years. Publisher of definitive business-to-business magazines and industry-leading books, electronic media, reference materials and directories, and producers of dynamic trade shows and conferences, Allured continues to set information standards in the industries it serves. Publisher of Skin Inc., Cosmetics & Toiletries, Global Cosmetics Industry (GCI) and Perfumer & Flavorist magazines and The Journal of Essential Oil Research.

The Importance of Pre-Booking your Iderm Facial Treatments!

2011-05-01T14:32:00.000-07:00

Hi everyone....

I just wanted to talk to you briefly about the importance of pre-booking your appointments.

I am currently the only person north of San Francisco currently offering the Iderm Facial Treatment.

(Hannah Sowd does an amazing job in SF and Marianne Kehoe of Face to Face LA is the woman to see in Los Angeles)

I do 25 clients per week right now. That's it until DERMASPACE expands. I am hoping to have a second treatment room by July and an assistant to help me which will allow me to double my availability.

DERMASPACE is open Tuesday-Saturday. For special events or if you must see me then I will take appointments on my days off at an increased price. Contact me for details.

Most of my clients see me every two weeks, a few come weekly. I have several clients who have booked their appointments in advance through the end of the year.

I am becoming increasingly busy so if you want to take your skin care to the next level then I highly recommend pre-booking standing appointments with me since appointment times are first come first serve. I want to make sure I can see you and help you achieve your skin care goals and will do my best to accommodate you.

Keep your fingers crossed that the second treatment room and the expansion of DERMASPACE goes forward. I am being interviewed on The Marie Manuchehri Show…Where Energy and Medicine Meet on August 11th so I am expecting an influx of new clients so if you are currently seeing me and want to ensure you still can after August 11th then please pre-book.

You can book easily online by clicking HERE.

Thank each and every one of you for being so loyal to me and DERMASPACE. It has been a pleasure and so rewarding to do what I love and to provide you with excellent skin care. If you have any suggestions for me or comments please do not hesitate to contact me.

Never in my wildest dreams did I imagine that DERMASPACE would grow so fast and I feel quite blessed. THANK YOU!!!

Best,

Jody, The Skin Wizard

DERMASPACE Price Changes for the IDERM FACIAL TREATMENT

2011-05-01T14:04:00.001-07:00

Hello Everyone!!!

I'm writing you on a lovely spring day here in Seattle....FINALLY the sun is out and there is warmth in the air.

For the last year and a half I have offered Dermaculture's Iderm Facial Treatment for a very low price of $85. Normally this treatment goes for $125 in Los Angeles and New York. My goal is to help you achieve beautiful, healthy skin so I have tried to keep the treatment affordable so I established my base price of $85. If you were a frequent client (those who make the commitment to come every 2 weeks) then your price would be $75.

The intro price began at $50 then was raised to $65. I also had employee perks deals with Amazon, Seattle Children's Hospital and Seattle Cancer Care Alliance.

Well.....life happens. The kids get sick, you get sick, work becomes a burden and your spouse forgets to tell you about a company barbecue. Whatever the case sometimes clients have to cancel and reschedule appointment so instead of coming every 2 weeks it becomes every 3 or 4...then back on track, then off again, etc.....you get the picture.

I love my clients and of course would not make any of you who have been so loyal to me pay the higher price if you fall off track with your skin care maintenance. It was becoming increasingly difficult for me to manage the accounting end of DERMASPACE with clients paying a wide range of prices, depending on whatever category they fell into; employee perks, frequent client, new client, etc.

So....as of today, May 1, 2011, I am simplifying my life and creating a new price structure.

Iderm Facial Treatment: $75 regardless of how often you come.

(First time client intro price, $65, employee perks intro price, $60)*

*regular price after that.

If you have any questions please CONTACT me.

To book online please CHECK AVAILABILITY!

FDA OKs ipilimumab for melanoma - By: Bill Gillette, Dermatology Times E-News

2011-03-30T14:14:00.000-07:00

Washington — The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has approved Bristol-Myers Squibb’s Yervoy (ipilimumab) for treatment of metastatic melanoma.

Yervoy is an injectable monoclonal antibody that blocks cytotoxic T-lymphocyte antigen (CTLA-4), which may play a role in inhibiting the immune system’s ability to fight off cancerous cells.

The drug’s safety and efficacy were established in a single international study of 676 melanoma patients, all of whom had stopped responding to other FDA-approved or commonly used treatments for melanoma. The subject patients’ melanomas either had spread or were inoperable.

The study was designed to measure the length of time from when treatment started until death occurred. The randomly assigned patients received Yervoy and an experimental tumor vaccine called gp100, Yervoy alone or the vaccine alone. Results show that those who received the combination of Yervoy plus the vaccine or Yervoy alone lived an average of about 10 months, while those who received only the experimental vaccine lived an average of 6.5 months.

Common side effects that can result from autoimmune reactions associated with Yervoy use include fatigue, diarrhea, skin rash, endocrine deficiencies and colitis. Severe to fatal autoimmune reactions were seen in 12.9 percent of patients treated with Yervoy. When severe side effects occurred, Yervoy was stopped and corticosteroid treatment started. Not all patients responded to this treatment. Patients who did respond in some cases did not see any improvement for several weeks.

Due to the unusual and severe side effects associated with Yervoy, the therapy is being approved with a Risk Evaluation and Mitigation Strategy to alert medical professionals. Patients will be provided with a medication guide to inform them about potential side effects.

A Deeper Look at Sun Damage By: Jennifer Wild, DO

2011-03-02T11:37:00.001-08:00

Posted: February 28, 2011, from the March 2011 issue of Skin Inc. Magazine.

The one aspect of the esthetic industry that will never change is the fact that everyone’s skin ages. There will always be a need for the correction of the visible signs of aging and, although there are now numerous treatment options available, the first step in treating any skin concern is determining what is happening within the dermis and epidermis that is causing the symptoms. It is well known that ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun are the No. 1 cause of visible aging, hence the popular term “sun damage.” By identifying the breakdown that occurs when the skin is exposed to the sun’s damaging rays and which ingredients can be used to limit or repair this breakdown, more deliberate treatment and product choices can be made.

Understanding sun-driven changes

External factors, such as sunlight, are responsible for many of the visible changes that take place in the skin. Although some minor alterations would occur regardless of a client’s amount of sun exposure, research indicates that up to 85% of visible aging is due to external factors.1 Client complaints regarding this damage are plentiful, and developing an understanding of how and when these changes take place will assist greatly in treatment. The following are among the most common presentations of cutaneous sun damage.

Deep wrinkling. This is not associated with the normal—or intrinsic—aging process; fine lines are normal, deep wrinkles are not. The sun’s UVA rays penetrate deeply into the dermis and cause the breakdown, disorganization and cross-linking of collagen. Cross-linking refers to what occurs when collagen fibers break down and fuse back together in a crisscross pattern. This process leads to reduced support and structure and, in the end, deep wrinkling. In addition, collagen and elastin breakdown is accelerated by an overproduction of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) enzymes. Important MMP include collagenase and elastase, which break down collagen and elastin, respectively. Studies have found that MMP are increased within minutes of UV exposure, making any time spent outdoors potentially destructive to the skin.2

Coarsening. This refers to keratinization of the skin, or the abnormal buildup of keratinocytes. Coarsening is responsible for the dull, thickened and rough-textured appearance often seen in more mature clients. Many refer to coarsening as an orange peel or leatherlike appearance. UVA and UVB radiation can cause an overproduction of epidermal cells, and stratum corneum thickness can double as a result of repeated sun exposure. This obvious, rough-textured appearance only occurs in certain cases of sun damage.

Dehydration. This is common in nearly all cases of sun damage. Dehydration of the skin involves a lack of water moisture. Many incorrectly believe that sebum production decreases with age. In fact, the dryness that is common in clients with aging skin is due to a decrease in the skin’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF). A drop in NMF levels occurs naturally with age, but is worsened by environmental exposure. Even the smallest disruption in this hydrating group of substances can significantly decrease surface moisture levels, and slow the desquamation and cell turnover process. Additionally, hyaluronidase, which is another MMP responsible for the degradation of hyaluronic acid, increases in response to the inflammation caused by UV rays and free radical damage. Clients suffering from sun damage may experience a thickened, dry stratum corneum that appears flaky, dull and rough. This dryness can be exacerbated by improper cleansing and moisturization practices, or the regular use of inherently drying ingredients, such as alcohol or glycolic acid.

Hyperpigmentation. This is one of the most common concerns for mature clients. The melanogenesis, or pigment-producing process, generates melanin in response to inflammation, and UV exposure significantly increases inflammation levels throughout the epidermis and dermis. Sun-induced hyperpigmentation most often appears as random, sporadic freckling that may be more prevalent on the higher, more exposed areas of the face, such as the top of the forehead or the bridge of the nose.

The culprits

Overall, there are dive crucial changes responsible for accelerated visible aging:

The degradation of collagen and elastin
The overproduction of MMP enzymes
A decrease in the skin’s NMF
An overproduction of epidermal cells
An increase in melanin production
The solutions

Now that you know what needs to be addressed, it is much simpler to choose effective ingredients for prevention and correction. See Ingredients That Address Sun Damage to help you identify ingredients that can help relieve your clients’ sun damage concerns.

In-spa treatments—particularly chemical peels and microdermabrasion—are highly recommended. The collagen-stimulating and exfoliating benefits associated with both types of procedures will significantly accelerate results. Research indicates that alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), trichloroacetic acid (TCA), salicylic acid and others stimulate the production of collagen when applied to the skin.3 In addition, each acid either dissolves dead skin cells or dissolves the bonds that hold them together, which will decrease surface buildup, increase cell turnover and support NMF retention. Microdermabrasion has also been shown to stimulate collagen production, and the mechanical exfoliating properties will smooth textural changes, such as wrinkling, and encourage healthy cell turnover rates.4

Practice prevention

Although it is true that each person will continue to age, there are measures that can be taken to limit the severity of visible skin aging. Prevention is, of course, ideal, and clients of all ages should use a broad-spectrum sunscreen each morning. Antioxidants and matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors (MMPi) are also important preventive steps, and some sunscreens are even formulated with protective antioxidants and MMPi ingredients for convenience. Once the damage is done, it is not too late. Clients should use a combination of corrective ingredients that address multiple concerns simultaneously for the fastest possible results. In-spa procedures will also significantly accelerate outcomes. By truly understanding what it is that is being treated, spa professionals of all experience levels can achieve consistent results with all of their clients, resulting in repeat business and retail sales.

REFERENCES

1. J Herschthal and J Kaufman, Cutaneous aging: a review of the process and topical therapies, Expert Review of Dermatology 2 753–761 (2007)

2. GJ Fisher, ZQ Wang and SC Datta, et al, Molecular basis of sun-induced premature skin ageing and retinoid antagonism, Nature 379 335–339 (1996)

3. MA Shiffman, SJ Mirrafati and SM Lam et al, Simplified Facial Rejuvenation, Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg, New York (2007)

4. BM Freedman, E Rueda-Pedraza and SP Waddell, The epidermal and dermal changes associated with microdermabrasion, Dermatol Surg 27 1031–1034 (2001)

Jennifer Wild, DO, is board-certified in family practice, and since 2004 has pursued an active interest in esthetics and skin care, including dermal injections, lasers, professional skin care treatments and products. Her vast knowledge in both the medical and esthetic industries has allowed her to excel within the industry as an advanced educator for PCA Skin.

"Why Preservatives Make a Better Mineral Makeup" By: Sam Dhatt

2011-02-21T16:38:00.000-08:00

Hi folks.....I've been crazy busy with DERMASPACE business so it's been a while since I have posted anything on my blog. My deepest apologies. I will be posting more regularly. Below is an interesting article regarding mineral make-up. Stay tuned for more updates by my personally as well as DERMASPACE news. Hope everyone is well and if you have any questions about skin-care that might make for a good article topic feel free to email me at JodyLeon@Dermaspace.com.

"Why Preservatives Make a Better Mineral Makeup" By: Sam Dhatt

Posted: November 29, 2010, from the December 2010 issue of Skin Inc. Magazine.

Today’s women demand more from their skin care products—and makeup—than ever before. In particular, the anti-aging boom of the past decade has brought skin function into sharp focus for discerning consumers.

Makeup and skin care products now are seen by many in a long-term context, as part of a lifelong strategy to prevent and minimize damage and wear to the skin. And thus, women have grown increasingly wary of cosmetic ingredients, including the preservatives commonly used to keep the products fresh, free of spoilage and perfectly blended for product consistency.

As part of this quest for makeup that supports skin health while still offering coverage, color and textural features, mineral makeup, especially in its dry powder form, has become the darling of many eco-advocates. (See Natural vs. Chemical.) Mineral makeup is typically more sheer and subtle than its nonmineral counterparts, giving the skin a glowing finish with translucent titanium and zinc oxide that also provide broad-spectrum sun protection. Although some of the popularity of minerals is based upon scientific accuracy, other aspects are founded upon myth and misinformation that can, in fact, be dangerous to skin health, and may also lead to consumer dissatisfaction.

Key among these misguided beliefs is the idea that mineral makeup requires no preservative component. Many consumers seek out preservative-free mineral makeup, but this choice not only diminishes the shelf life and therefore the dollar value of the product, but also poses health risks to clients.

The myth of clean skin

“Cleanliness” is a relative and subjective term. Dermatologists and skin care product manufacturers, among others, realize this, but consumers may not. This, in turn, leads to misunderstanding. The human body, and in particular human skin, is a teeming microbial zoo. It is estimated that microbes on and in the body outnumber human cells ten-to-one.1 Many researchers consider human skin, the body’s largest organ, the final frontier of unexplored science, much as the ocean depths or the reaches of space were once viewed. Experts currently recognize at least 182 species of bacteria—fondly called “normal flora” by bacteriologists—as common residents of human skin. In fact, recent research revealed that 19 species alone live in the warm, shadowy areas behind the ears.2

Unless the skin is being disinfected for surgery, cleansing with conventional products, including over-the-counter antibacterial soaps, basically lightens the bioload, but does not fully eradicate all bacteria. Luckily, few of these visitors are lethal. The normal, healthy body tolerates the presence of most bacteria, presuming that the immune system is robust. In fact, the good bacteria present actually defend the skin against pathogen invaders.

Skin is always in a state of bacterial activity, even in the most sterile of settings. The bacteria recolonize as soon as they are disturbed by cleansing, arriving from the air, from everything that is touched and from within the human body itself.

Four established groups of bacteria live on human skin: propionibacteria, corynebacteria, staphylococcus and streptococcus. Those last two groups should give you pause. Staphylococcus aureus and streptococcus mutans, pneumoniae and pyogenes are pathogens. Staphylococcus aureus is the leading cause of bacterial disease in humans, while streptococcus pneumoniae causes 95% of all bacterial pneumonia.

Other commonly found pathogens on the skin include Escherichia coli—E. coli—and Enterococcus faecalis, a component of human intestinal flora used by many European countries as a standard indicator of pollution by sewage, much the way E.coli counts are taken in U.S. waters to determine their safety for drinking and swimming. Human skin typically also swarms with Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Candida albicans, Aspergillus niger, Neisseria meningitidis, Haemophilus influenzae and several forms of Clostridium, all potentially aggressive microbes that are normally kept in check by healthy immunosuppression. Molds, fungi and yeasts are also present, to a smaller degree.

But do you really want to grow your own colonies of these bacteria in your makeup bag?

Mineral promise, paraben parable

It is important to understand that, because the skin is a thriving community of microbes, everything that touches it becomes their transport system. A makeup brush or applicator scoops up innumerable microorganisms with even one pass over cleansed skin. Unless the applicator or brush is discarded or disinfected each time it touches the skin—realizing that a woman typically passes the brush or sponge over the skin several times per application of bronzer, base, eye shadow and blush—entire colonies are introduced back into the pan or jar of cosmetic product each day. They proliferate exponentially, awaiting the arrival of new colleagues with the next product use.

Bacteria thrive in moisture, and this has been part of the appeal of mineral makeup: they are dry powders. It stands to reason that because mineral makeup contains no water in the formulations, no preservatives are needed to prevent the microbial proliferation that is ubiquitous. But here’s where it gets sticky—literally. Even if manufacturers ship promptly and even if the product moves briskly in the retail environment, clients are notorious for hanging on to their favorite cosmetic products long after the manufacturer’s suggested expiration date.

Also consider that makeup is often stored in steamy, warm, damp places, such as the bathroom, and the surfaces and even the air of the bathroom is often laden with an abundance of intestinal flora. These persistently find their way into any product used there.

These microbial concentrations often cause mild infections and irritations. For instance, conjunctivitis is commonly caused by one of the Staph family, which is one of the largest groups of bacteria composing normal flora. Consumers may presume that ingredients listed on a cosmetic package are causing an allergic or inflammatory response in their skin, when in fact they may be reacting to the bacterial omnipresence.

Preservative alternatives

Given this knowledge, the case for preservatives—even in mineral makeup—is irrefutable. So the question becomes, what makes a great preservative? Parabens were the answer until recently. Parabens are a food-grade preservative derived from benzoic acid that operate as a broad-spectrum antimicrobial. Although links between parabens and disease are not conclusive, recent controversy and media concern has turned a large portion of public opinion against this once-common solution. (Editor’s note: See “The Truth About Parabens” by Carol and Robert Trow, which appeared in Skin Inc. magazine’s July 2010 issue.)

Because of this, manufacturers are faced with the challenge of finding a replacement system that is not only effective, but is also nonirritating, nonsensitizing, nontoxic and nonmutagenic, meaning that the preservative does not disturb the DNA configuration. The fact of the matter is that some manufacturers explicitly state that their products are preservative-free in order to court the preference of green consumers, when, in fact, for safety, the products are filled with preservatives. Misleading the consumer is illegal, and certainly never ethically correct, but the conundrum here is clear. Many alternative preservatives are too narrow in spectrum to be practical. Most vitamins and essential oils are not versatile or strong enough on their own to work as effective preservatives.

The new trends in preservative formulation focus upon phenoxyethanol blends, which enhance their effectiveness with preservative boosters such as caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol and ethylhexylglycerin. The spa industry continues to discover new solutions in the garden, with botanical-based compounds meeting the needs of consumers seeking safe, effective, gentle and truly natural products. For instance, a blend of honeysuckle and jojoba from BioNatural called Plantservative is now proven to prevent microbial action in mineral cosmetics.

Educating and re-educating clients about the need for preservatives in mineral makeup is part of the continuing quest to develop products that meet the diverse array of client demands, because only products that are manufactured with health and safety in mind are truly beautiful.

REFERENCES

1. www.independent.co.uk/news/science/human-skin-is-a-zoo-of-bacteria-scientists-say-435234.html

2. www.nih.gov/news/health/may2009/nhgri-28.htm

(Both accessed Oct 15, 2010)

Sam Dhatt is an award-winning cosmeceutical chemist who serves as the CEO and president of Hayward, California-based DermaQuest Skin Therapy and Allure Labs. During his more-than-20-year career as a sought-after formulator, he has developed and manufactured skin care products for more than 700 companies, including many of the best-known brands in the industry. Dhatt is a frequent author featured in many trade journals and skin care publications, and speaks on ingredients and formulation with the goal of increasing esthetician knowledge and success.

No laps for warm laptops; skin damage is possible.

2010-10-04T07:20:00.000-07:00

LINDSEY TANNER
Published: 21 minutes ago
CHICAGO (AP)

Have you ever worked on your laptop computer with it sitting on your lap, heating up your legs? If so, you might want to rethink that habit.

Doing it a lot can lead to "toasted skin syndrome," an unusual-looking mottled skin condition caused by long-term heat exposure, according to medical reports.

In one recent case, a 12-year-old boy developed a sponge-patterned skin discoloration on his left thigh after playing computer games a few hours every day for several months.

"He recognized that the laptop got hot on the left side; however, regardless of that, he did not change its position," Swiss researchers reported in an article published Monday in the journal Pediatrics.

Another case involved a Virginia law student who sought treatment for the mottled discoloration on her leg.

Dr. Kimberley Salkey, who treated the young woman, was stumped until she learned the student spent about six hours a day working with her computer propped on her lap. The temperature underneath registered 125 degrees.

That case, from 2007, is one of 10 laptop-related cases reported in medical journals in the past six years.

The condition also can be caused by overuse of heating pads and other heat sources that usually aren't hot enough to cause burns. It's generally harmless but can cause permanent skin darkening. In very rare cases, it can cause damage leading to skin cancers, said the Swiss researchers, Drs. Andreas Arnold and Peter Itin from University Hospital Basel. They do not cite any skin cancer cases linked to laptop use, but suggest, to be safe, placing a carrying case or other heat shield under the laptop if you have to hold it in your lap.

Salkey, an assistant dermatology professor at Eastern Virginia Medical School, said that under the microscope, the affected skin resembles skin damaged by long-term sun exposure.

Major manufacturers including Apple, Hewlett Packard and Dell warn in user manuals against placing laptops on laps or exposed skin for extended periods of time because of the risk for burns.

A medical report several years ago found that men who used laptops on their laps had elevated scrotum temperatures. If prolonged, that kind of heat can decrease sperm production, which can potentially lead to infertility. Whether laptop use itself can cause that kind of harm hasn't been confirmed.

In the past, "toasted skin syndrome" has occurred in workers whose jobs require being close to a heat source, including bakers and glass blowers, and, before central heating, in people who huddled near potbellied stoves to stay warm.

Dr. Anthony J. Mancini, dermatology chief at Children's Memorial Hospital in Chicago, said he'd treated a boy who developed the condition from using a heating pad "hours at a time" to soothe a thigh injured in soccer. Mancini said he'd also seen a case caused by a hot water bottle.

He noted that chronic, prolonged skin inflammation can potentially increase chances for squamous cell skin cancer, which is more aggressive than the most common skin cancer. But Mancini said it's unlikely computer use would lead to cancer since it's so easy to avoid prolonged close skin contact with laptops.

___

Online:

Pediatrics: http://www.pediatrics.org

A great write up of DERMASPACE & The Iderm Facial Treatment!

2010-09-02T21:56:00.000-07:00

Step aside, treadmills and Stairmasters -- there’s a new kind of gym in town, the “Skin-Gym.” With Dermaspace’s Iderm Facial Treatment, or “Skin-Gym,” toning and tightening aren’t just for glutes, triceps and biceps anymore. It’s your face’s turn to get fit. If the typical spa facial is a walk in the park, then the Iderm Facial Treatment, which focuses on deep tissue cleansing, is a one-on-one session with a personal trainer.

Experienced esthetician and owner of Dermaspace, Jody Leon, is Washington State’s only certified Iderm Facial Treatment specialist, so when you’re with him, your skin is in good hands. He begins the treatment’s four-step process by assessing each client’s skin type. Next comes the detoxification preparation, which he accompanies with a relaxing arm and hand massage – working out never felt so good! After a thorough deep cleaning, Jody ends the treatment with a procedure called ionization, which firms the skin, shrinks pores and decreases inflammation, among other things. Just think of it as the equivalent of a post-workout cool down.

With obvious results and no heavy lifting required, the “Skin-Gym” is the kind of workout everyone dreams of, and at only $85 ($50 for first time clients), this is the kind of deal you can’t refuse.

Courtesy of Local Twist

Foods, Drugs and Vitamins May Help Prevent Skin Cancer - via Skin Inc.

2010-08-14T12:18:00.000-07:00

In most cases, non-melanoma skin cancers are caused by overexposure to ultraviolet radiation, the invisible rays from the sun that can burn the skin. To reduce the risk of skin cancer, dermatologists encourage the public to be sun smart, including limiting sun exposure and using broad-spectrum sunscreens. Despite these efforts, the incidence of non-melanoma skin cancer continues to rise. Now, several agents—including medicines, foods and vitamins—are being investigated for their chemopreventive properties, or ability to prevent skin cancer.

At the American Academy of Dermatology’s Summer Academy Meeting 2010 in Chicago, dermatologist Craig A. Elmets, MD, FAAD, professor and chair, department of dermatology and director of the Skin Diseases Research Center, University of Alabama at Birmingham, discussed promising new research on the use of medicine and diet to prevent UV-induced skin cancer in the future.

“Based on the research conducted thus far, it appears that several different agents have the potential to be effective in providing enhanced sun protection and preventing non-melanoma skin cancers,” said Elmets. “While the way these agents work are different, we have seen encouraging results with both oral and topical agents, including non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), eflornithine and certain natural antioxidants.”

Medications investigated as future chemopreventive agents

NSAIDs are a class of drugs that block cyclooxygenase enzymes (COX-1 and COX-2), which produce prostaglandins that promote inflammation, pain and fever. When these enzyme messengers responsible for reducing prostaglandins throughout the body are blocked, ongoing inflammation, pain and fever are reduced. One such NSAID approved by the Food & Drug Administration (FDA) and used primarily to treat inflammation associated with arthritis is celecoxib. Elmets noted the chemopreventive agent's use in patients with a syndrome known as basal cell nevus syndrome. Caused by a genetic defect, basal cell nevus syndrome triggers patients to develop basal cell carcinomas at a very young age.

“In patients with basal cell cacinomas, investigators have found that the COX-2 enzyme is elevated in non-melanoma skin cancers. Because celecoxib inhibits this enzyme, clinical studies have demonstrated that taking celecoxib seems to decrease the number of new basal cell carcinomas in basal cell nevus syndrome,” he said. “This is very encouraging, particularly if this can eventually be applied to basal cell skin cancer in the general population.”

According to Elmets, eflornithine is another drug that has been shown to have beneficial effects in preventing basal cell carcinoma. FDA-approved as a topical treatment for excessive hair growth and as an injectable formulation to treat sleeping sickness, eflornithine inhibits the enzyme known as ornithine decarboxylase that is found to be elevated in skin cancers.

“Although celecoxib and eflornithine work by different mechanisms, initial studies show that they both prevent basal cell carcinomas by at least 30%,” said Elmets. “Based on these initial findings, these two drugs are considered very promising as chemopreventive agents and require additional clinical study.”

Natural antioxidants in preventing skin cancer

In addition, numerous natural antioxidants are being evaluated for their chemopreventive properties. Antioxidants are substances that destroy free radicals, which are harmful compounds in the body that damage DNA and even cause cell death. Free radicals are believed to contribute to aging as well as the development of a number of health problems, including skin cancer.

Animal studies and emerging clinical studies suggest that the abundance of antioxidant polyphenols in green tea and grape seed extract may play an important role in helping to prevent the onset and growth of skin tumors. Similarly, the pomegranate fruit also is thought to be effective in promoting skin health since it has very high levels of antioxidants called flavonoids that have been shown to counteract various cancer-causing free radicals.

“It remains unclear precisely how these natural antioxidants work, but they all are considered powerful when used externally,” said Elmets. “These substances also have an anti-inflammatory effect, which is known to be chemopreventive. However, it is important to remember that the FDA has not approved the use of these natural antioxidants as chemopreventive agents, and controlled studies need to be conducted in humans to determine whether they may help prevent skin cancer. At present, the evidence to support these benefits is largely based on animal studies.”

“As dermatologists, we will always recommend sunscreens and sun-smart behaviors, like seeking shade, wearing hats and limiting sun exposure. These lifestyle strategies are vital to preventing skin cancer and should not be replaced,” added Elmets. “However, I could envision in the future that we also may recommend a cocktail of chemopreventive agents to provide patients enhanced protection against UV-induced skin cancers. Our hope is that further human studies will help us better understand how to effectively incorporate these new agents into practice and thereby turn the tide on the escalating rate of skin cancer in this country.”

Find this article at:
http://www.skininc.com/skinscience/physiology/100527674.html

Summer Special

2010-07-20T12:14:00.000-07:00

Dermaspace is offering a great special for 1st time clients.

$50 for the Iderm Facial Treatment - regular price, $85.

For more information or to book online visit DERMASPACE!

Vitamin D Health: Why You Shouldn't Shun the Sun by Dr. Frank Lipman for The Huffington Post

2010-06-22T09:49:00.001-07:00

For the last 30 years or so, doctors (dermatologists in particular), health officials, beauty experts and many product companies have been demonizing the sun. They've told us to avoid it because without sunscreen, exposure to the sun's rays will damage skin and cause cancer. But this oversimplification distorts the facts. In the past few years, numerous studies have shown that optimizing your vitamin D levels may actually help prevent as many as 16 different types of cancer including pancreatic, lung, breast, ovarian, prostate and colon cancers. And the best way to optimize Vitamin D levels is through safe, smart and limited sunscreen-free exposure to the sun.

For hundreds of thousands of years, man has lived with the sun: Our ancestors were outdoors far more often than indoors. We developed a dependence on sunshine for health and life, so the idea that sunlight is dangerous does not make sense. How could we have evolved and survived as a species, if we were that vulnerable to something humans have been constantly exposed to for their entire existence? Is it possible that our bodies are made in such a way that the sun is really a lethal enemy? Not in my opinion. Like all living things, we need sunshine, and it feels good for a reason. Much as plants harness the sun's rays through photosynthesis, our bodies use sunlight to help the skin produce the vitamin D it needs to build bones, quell inflammation, bolster the immune system and protect against cancer (including skin cancer).

Why demonize the sun?

Western medicine has made a practice of telling us to abstain from things that are bad for us in extreme quantities, when in fact those same things⎯fat, salt and sunshine for example⎯are very good for us when consumed wisely and in moderation. In the case of sunshine, our UV paranoia is contributing to a silent epidemic: Vitamin D deficiency. It's silent because most people don't know they are deficient. And it's deadly, because this deficiency can lead to cancer and a multitude of other diseases. But we've been brainwashed into believing that even small amounts of sunshine will harm us, and told to slather on sunscreen, which blocks vitamin D production and exacerbates the Vitamin D deficiency induced by our modern, indoor lives.

Studies show that as many as three out of four Americans suffer from Vitamin D deficiency. A study published in 2009 in the Archives of Internal Medicine (a leading scientific journal), found that 70 percent of Caucasians, 90 percent of Hispanics and 97 percent of African Americans in the US have insufficient blood levels of vitamin D. Indeed, it's thought to be the most common medical condition in the world, affecting over one billion people and we now have research showing just how essential vitamin D is to health.

U.S. and Norwegian researchers have found that people who live in higher latitudes are more prone to vitamin D deficiency and more prone to developing common cancers and dying of them. It's now thought that this is due in part to the body's inability to make enough activated vitamin D to help regulate cell growth and to keep cell growth in check. Independent scientific research has shown that whether you live in a sunny or not-so-sunny climate, exposure to the sun and its UVB radiation will increase your production of vitamin D and help lower the risk of a host of debilitating and fatal diseases -- including many cancers, heart disease, high blood pressure, Type I diabetes, multiple sclerosis and depression.

And now the experts are concerned that we're passing an epidemic of vitamin D deficiency down to a new generation. Studies have shown that vitamin D deficiency may imprint on an infant for the rest of his/her life. Infants that are vitamin D deficient at birth can remain vitamin D deficient for the first several months after birth, which may put them at risk of developing many chronic diseases much later in life.

What is Vitamin D and how much do you need?

Although called a vitamin, it is not. Vitamin D is in a class by itself, behaving more like a hormone. It is made in the skin, gets into your bloodstream and then goes into the liver and the kidney where it becomes activated as a key steroid hormone called Calcitriol. It then goes to the intestines, bones and other tissues, effecting metabolic pathways and the expression of myriad genes. Vitamin D's active form can interact with almost every cell in the body directly or indirectly, targeting up to two thousand genes, or about six percent of the human genome. It is necessary for numerous cellular functions, and when the body does not have what it needs to function optimally, it follows that we experience a decline in health and put ourselves at risk of disease. We now know that almost every cell and tissue in our body has vitamin D receptors, which raises the question: Why would those receptors be there if they weren't meant to have an effect?

Our vitamin D needs vary with age, body weight, percent of body fat, latitude, skin coloration, season of the year, use of sun block, individual reactions to sun exposure, and our overall health. As a general rule, older people need more vitamin D than younger people, large people need more that small people, fat people need more than skinny people, northern people need more than southern people, dark-skinned people need more than fair skinned people, winter people need more than summer people, sun-phobes need more than sun worshipers, and ill people may need more than well people.

The best way to determine whether or not you are deficient is to have your vitamin D blood levels measured and replenish accordingly.

My Top 10 Tips for Healthy Sun Exposure and Optimizing your Vitamin D Levels

Have a healthy respect for the sun. It is powerful medicine with potentially dangerous side effects on your skin. Treat it like medication, using the lowest dose necessary, but don't avoid it completely. Never fall asleep in the sun without protection.
Always avoid sunburn. It is sunburn, not healthy sun exposure that causes problems. Repeated sunburns, especially in children and very fair-skinned people, have been linked to melanoma. Whereas there is no credible scientific evidence that regular, moderate sun exposure causes melanoma or other skin cancers.
Prepare your skin and build up tolerance gradually. Start early in the year (spring), or early in the morning before the sun is strongest and slowly build up the amount of time you spend in the sun.
Get 15-30 minutes of unprotected sun exposure two to four times a week. Each of us has different needs for unprotected sun exposure to maintain adequate levels of Vitamin D. Depending on your age, what type of skin you have, where you live and what time of the day and year it is, your need will vary. The farther you live from the equator, the more exposure to the sun you need in order to generate vitamin D. For instance, a fair skinned person, sitting on a New York beach in June, in the middle of the day, for about 10-15 minutes (enough to cause a light pinkness 24 hours after), is producing the equivalent of 15,000-20,000 IU's of Vitamin D. But the same person living further north in the U.K, or Canada would need 20-30 minutes to get that light pinkness, which is all one needs. Also, people with dark skin pigmentation may need 20 - 30 times as much exposure to sunlight as fair-skinned people, to generate the same amount of vitamin D. For more specifics, I recommend the tables in The Vitamin D Solution by Dr. Michael Holick.
Get frequent, short exposures. Regular short exposures have been found to be much more effective and safer than intermittent long ones. Note that you cannot generate Vitamin D when sitting behind a glass window, because the UVB rays necessary for vitamin D production are absorbed by glass.
After your 15-30 minutes of sun-block free time in the sun, you must protect yourself. If you're going to be out in the sun for longer periods, wear a hat to protect your face and light colored clothing that blocks the sun and keeps you cool. When you do apply sunscreen, use one with fewer chemicals. Check out the Environmental Working Group's list of safer sunscreens. Remember that even weak sunscreens block the ability of your skin to manufacture vitamin D, so once you have applied it, you will not be making vitamin D.
Boost your "internal sunscreen" by consuming anti-oxidants and beneficial fats. These strengthen skin cells, helping to protect them from sun damage. Eating lots of vegetables and fruits such as blueberries, raspberries, goji berries and pomegranates and supplementing with green powdered mixes and fish oils are great options when going into the sun.
Have your vitamin D blood levels checked regularly. The correct blood test is 25OH vit D or 25 hydroxy vitamin D test. Be aware, however, that current "normal" range for vitamin D is 20 to 55 ng/ml. This is much too low! Those levels may be fine if you want to prevent rickets or osteomalacia, but they are not adequate for optimal health. The ideal range for optimal health is 50-80 ng/ml.
Don't rely on food alone for your vitamin D needs. It is almost impossible to get your vitamin D needs met by food alone. Fatty wild fish (not farmed), like salmon and mackerel are the best food sources, but you would have to eat huge quantities of them daily to get anywhere near what your body needs. Although fortified milk and orange juice do contain vitamin D, you would have to drink at least 10 glasses of each daily and I don't recommend doing that.
Take Vitamin D3 supplements if necessary. In the winter or if you don't get enough healthy sun exposure or if your blood levels are low, make sure you supplement with at least 2,000 IU's a day of Vitamin D3. Although I recommend moderate sunbathing, vitamin D supplements provide the same benefits as sunshine (in terms of Vitamin D needs). But, if taken in too large a dose, they can cause vitamin D toxicity, whereas sun exposure does not. It is impossible to generate too much vitamin D in your body from the sun: Your body will self-regulate and only generate what it needs, which just reaffirms to me that we should get our vitamin D from sensible sun exposure. Here are specific guidelines for replenishing Vitamin D.

Conclusion

Although irresponsible sunbathing is unquestionably harmful and precautions need to be taken, regular, moderate, unprotected sun exposure is essential for good health. It is free, easy to get and good for you when used intelligently. It is the only reliable way to generate vitamin D in your own body, which we now know to be an essential ingredient for optimizing health and preventing disease.

Frank Lipman MD is the creator of Eleven Eleven Wellness, Guided Health Solutions, a leading edge integrative health program.

He is also the founder and director of the Eleven Eleven Wellness Center in NYC, where he practices a combination of Western and Eastern Medicine and the many other complimentary modalities he has studied. He is the author of the recent REVIVE; Stop Feeling Spent and Start Living Again (2009) (previously called SPENT) and TOTAL RENEWAL; 7 key steps to Resilience, Vitality and Long-Term Health (2003).

Follow Dr. Frank Lipman on Twitter: www.twitter.com/lipmo

"Stem Cell Science & Age Management of Skin" By: Christine Heathman for Skin Inc.

2010-06-03T12:47:00.000-07:00

Editor’s Note: This article is based on a presentation that will be presented by the author at Face & Body Northern California, July 17–19, 2010, at the San Jose McEnery Convention Center in San Jose, California. To learn more about and register for this event, log on towww.FaceandBody.com/california.

“The development of cell lines that may produce almost every tissue of the human body is an unprecedented scientific breakthrough. It is not too unrealistic to say that this research has the potential to revolutionize the practice of medicine, and improve the quality and length of life.”

—Harold Varmus, Nobel Prize winner and former director, National Institutes of Health

Fighting the skin-aging clock now requires more understanding of ingredient science and the anatomy, histology and physiology of the skin. Research in skin biology began charting an interdisciplinary approach to the skin sciences several decades ago, but the demand for anti-aging ingredients has driven the need for the progressive age management of skin to an all-time high. A recent study conducted by an independent survey reports more than 62% of women between the ages of 35–54, and more than 65% of women 55 and older, affirm that aging is their reason for using skin care products.¹

It is unavoidable: Skin ages. The genetic answer to skin aging lies in the fact that each gene codes for a specific protein, and proteins determine how cells work. Proteins, such as collagen, provide bodily structure by connecting tissues and organs. In the case of skin, collagen acts as scaffolding holding up the skin, and keeping it smooth and wrinkle-free. Wrinkles are the benchmark of declining collagen levels and can affect all age groups when UV radiation assaults cells, breaking down DNA via the sun’s proton energy.

The innate aging process is made worse via UV radiation, chemical compositions of tissue change, sun, pollution, heat, smoking, drugs, stress, diet and other environmental factors affecting the challenge of skin aging. Because of this, new revolutionary ingredients that combat chronological aging, reduce superficial and deep wrinkles, delay senescence of essential cells, and preserve the youthful appearance and vitality of skin have been discovered using the biotechnology of plant stem cell extracts. Plant stem cell extracts have been proven to protect skin from UV oxidative stress and inhibit inflammation; control UV-induced matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) activation, collagen loss and tissue damage; and combat destructive free radical injury that leads to photoaging.²

What are stem cells?

Stem cells are unprogrammed cells that can differentiate into a cell with specific functions. They are related to longevity and have a unique growth characteristic allowing them to make identical copies of themselves, as well as differentiate to become specialized cells. Stem cells have the capacity to replenish themselves through self-renewal, and the ability to generate differentiated cells. Each cell, whether stem cell or differentiated cell, has the same DNA—or genes—but a stem cell’s characteristic depends on signals from the microenvironment, such as neighboring cells that form a function. Principally, there are signals inside each cell that control its fate called epigenetic signals. They are tags on the DNA or surrounding histone proteins regulating the switching on or off of genes.

The most remarkable feature of cells is their ability to reproduce. Any cell is simply a compartment with a watery interior separated from the external environment by a surface membrane, which can be thought of as a plasma film, preventing the free flow of molecules in and out of the cell. The simplest type of reproduction entails the division of a parent cell into two daughter cells. This occurs as part of the cell cycle, a series of events that prepares a cell to divide followed by the actual division process, called mitosis.

In single-cell organisms, both daughter cells often resemble the parent cell. In multicellular organisms, stem cells can give rise to two different cells: one that resembles the parent cell and one that does not.

Stem cells and skin

High-tech plant cell cultures have been harnessed to protect skin stem cells based on the science of botanical wound-healing. To understand how these ingredients function, it is important to understand the relationship of the stem cell population with other cells of the skin.

The skin. The skin is the largest and most dynamic immune organ, made up of billions of cells playing a protective and esthetic role where aging is clinically evident via wrinkles. Two types of adult stem cells have been identified within the skin’s ecosystem: epithelial skin cells located in the basal layer of the epidermis, and hair bulge stem cells situated in the hair follicle.

The skin’s top layer, the epidermis, is a stratified epithelium housing terminally differentiated cells that shed by the millions daily from the skin, continuously delivering new skin cells. Because of this differentiating cell dynamic, the importance of stem cells in the skin is scientifically substantiated, enumerating their relevance to skin age management.

The role of the epidermis stems directly from the terminal differentiation of keratinocytes into corneocytes to form what is the visible skin. This dynamic and complicated immune organ interfaces with a hostile environment, and its uppermost layer, the stratum corneum, is subject to continuous abrasion by chemical and physical injury. The stratum corneum, an essential part of the epidermis, is the outermost skin layer at the environment interface. This skin layer is also the principal permeability barrier to transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and a major cordon to percutaneous absorption of topically applied compounds, such as botanical stem cell extracts. The degree of moisture in the stratum corneum is an important factor when evaluating skin function because loss of moisture is a major factor in aging skin. This detail is important to note when treating and managing photoaging skin because there is a significant correlation between TEWL and the percutaneous absorption of topical ingredients.

Why is TEWL an important measurement in aging skin? Water in the stratum corneum is a dynamic equilibrium between the underlying tissues and the environmental atmosphere. The intricate stratum corneum barrier constitutes 70% of the epidermis, which is continuously rehabilitated from the granular layer. This layer is the first victim of UV assault that eventually results in photoaging of the skin. To protect the epidermis against invasion of microorganisms and toxic agents, as well as the loss of indigenous fluids residing in the stratum corneum, the horny layer of the skin must be perpetually renewed. This is where stem cells play an important role.

Stem cells’ role in the skin. The stem cell, which is responsible for cell renewal replacement in the epidermis, is an intermediate between the keratinocyte stem cell and terminally differentiating cells. The stem cell is the amplifying cell that undergoes limited cycles of replication. One of the key questions in stem cell research has been how stem cells know when it’s time to stop reproducing. In some cases, stem cells seem to be able to divide into two structurally different cells; one that remains a stem cell and another, called a progenitor cell, that goes on to generate specialized cells. Details still remain unclear, so this area of research remains active, however the study with skin stem cells reveals important information about other organs of the body.

Researchers believe certain proteins and other signaling or controlling molecules are responsible for directing cell specialization, however they are still actively working to identify the specific molecules that control normal skin development. Scientists recognize skin stem cells are the decision-makers that direct the production of new skin cells, as is evidenced by the daily shedding of dead stratum corneum epithelium.³ If skin stem cells did not preside over and create skin cell replacements, they certainly would suffer a fateful demise.

Skin stem cells generate new skin to replace the cells lost every day and influence wound-healing. Skin begins with a single cell. One cell, dividing into two, then two into four and four into eight until there are billions of cells, patterned and diffuse, color-coded and clear, working-class and upper crust, ancient and young, defenders and helpers, assembled into a great, thriving mass that is a complete skin organ. And from this, millions drop from the skin daily and the replication process keeps new generations of cells in a replenishment course of action that can repeat itself more than 900 times during a life cycle of self-renewal.

Cell lineage. The formation of working tissues during the development of multicellular organisms depends in part on specific patterns of mitotic cell division. A series of such cell divisions similar to a family tree is called cell lineage, which traces the progressive determination of cells, restricting their developmental potential and their differentiation into specialized cell types. Cell lineages are controlled by intrinsic factors—cells acting according to their history and internal regulators—as well as extrinsic factors such as cell-cell signals and environmental inputs.

A cell lineage begins with stem cells. The stem cell name comes from the image of a plant stem, which grows upward, continuing to form more stems, while sending off leaves and branches to the side. The stem cell is as important to a differentiating skin cell as a branch is to a leaf. Healthy stem cells mean healthier, younger-acting skin.

Stem cells and age management

With current applications for treating and managing aging skin, scientists are focusing their research on adult stem cells located in the skin and are studying the potential of this cell type, coupled with its function related to chronological aging to help understand how the skin’s aging clock can be reset.² Epidermal adult stem cells replenish and maintain the balance of cells within the skin tissue, and regenerate tissue caused by damage from a variety of sources, such as the sun, injury and acne. Age is the major adversary, and it diminishes the number of skin stem cells, making their ability to repair the skin less efficient.

Plants have stem cells comparable to human stem cells. Unlike humans, plants contain totipotent stem cells with the potential to regenerate a whole plant. This action gives scientific rise to the benefits of the plant stem cells’ ability to regenerate new leaves, flowers, seeds or a whole, fresh plant. Unlike human stem cells, plant stem cells can de-differentiate and become a stem cell.²

The stem cell ingredient that has garnered much attention lately is the extract called Malus domestica, sourced from a rare Swiss apple identified as the Uttwiler Spatlauber. The Uttwiler Spatlauber apple is an endangered variety that is well-known for its excellent storability and longevity potential due to its long-living tissue stem cells. Fruit is known to oxidize quickly once removed from its primary host and exposed to the environment; however, this is not the case with the Uttwiler Spatlauber apple.²

It is an anomaly among fruit, resisting typical oxidation due to its high tannin content and long-living stem cells. In order to use the stem cells from this apple, scientists had to extract tissue from the plant to create cultures called explants. The explants are then scratched to create miniature wounds to stimulate the stem cells within the cultured plant tissue. This action induced the formation of new stem cells.²

Biotechnologies of plant stem cell extracts also isolate the substances involved in the plant’s defensive ability against environmental, physical and biological stressors. Scientists in Switzerland studied the liquid cell cultures derived from their extensive study of the Uttwiler Spatluber apple and have found that the stem cells extracted from it can stimulate human stem cell growth and protect skin stem cells from death due to UV overexposure, neutralizing free radicals and reversing the effects of photoaging of the skin. Other biotechnological research in botanical stem cell research is emerging quickly in professional skin care to benefit the management of aging skin.²

A revolutionary approach

This is an exciting time to be in specialized skin care as a new approach to age management is becoming available through the use of stem cells. Professional age management of skin is all about extending and preserving the life energy of skin cells to help yield results for younger-acting skin. Current applications for treating aging skin will continue to lead scientists to focus their research on adult stem cells located in the skin, and the continued study of these cells, their function relating to aging and how they helps reset the skin’s aging clock, is groundbreaking and revolutionary.

REFERENCES

1. www.SkinInc.com/treatments/facial/84014002.html (Accessed May 10, 2010)

2. C McKiver, Plant Stem Cells: A Cure for Aging?, Inside Cosmeceuticals (Aug 3, 2009)

3. R Barthel and D Aberdam, Epidermal stem cells, Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology & Venereology 19(4) 405–413 (2005)

Find this article at:
http://www.skininc.com/skinscience/physiology/94947479.html

Stress & Skin, brought to you by The American Academy of Dermatology

2010-05-13T07:37:00.000-07:00

How the Mind Matters to Your Skin

How we feel on the inside could be affecting how we look on the outside. In fact, studies link factors that impact our emotional well-being — such as stress, depression and anxiety — to an increase in skin, hair or nail problems. Dermatologist and clinical psychologist Richard G. Fried, MD, PhD, FAAD, of Yardley, Pa., explains the reciprocal relationship between feelings and appearance:

Psychodermatology Interventions

Stress can manifest itself on one's appearance in many ways, but primarily by making the skin more sensitive and more reactive.
- For example, stress can make psoriasis or rosacea worse, result in acne lesions that are more inflamed and more persistent, cause brittle nails and ridging of the nails, cause hair loss, cause or worsen hives, and cause excessive perspiration.
- Stress also is a known trigger or can be a worsening factor for fever blisters, psoriasis, seborrheic dermatitis and has even been shown to impair skin barrier function and dehydrate the skin — allowing more irritants, allergens, and infectious agents to penetrate the skin and cause problems.
Beyond the direct physiological effects of stress, patients under stress also tend to neglect or abuse their skin. For example, they often lack the energy and motivation to adhere to their skin care regimens, and there also might be signs of stress-related behaviors — such as scratching, pulling or rubbing — that can exacerbate problems.
Traditional dermatologic therapies should be used in conjunction with appropriate stress management therapies to successfully treat stress-related dermatologic conditions.
- When dermatologists treat both the skin and stress, the skin often clears more quickly and completely as the influences of stress are diminished. This, in turn, can help decrease a patient's overall anxiety level, and the patient may start to feel better about how they look and how they feel emotionally.
On a microscopic level, stress reduction can decrease the release of pro-inflammatory stress hormones and chemicals. For example, release of neuropeptides (or stress chemicals released from the nerve endings) can be reduced with stress management techniques. This often results in skin that looks and functions better.
- These interventions can reduce blood vessel over-activity, resulting in less blushing or flushing.
With accurate diagnosis by a dermatologist, effective treatments improve the appearance and function of the skin. This alone can substantially reduce patients' stress and improve their skin, hair and nail conditions. However, if stress is clearly interfering with patients' overall well-being and ability to cope, simultaneous stress management interventions are warranted. In some instances, referral to a mental health professional may be necessary.

Cosmetic Interventions

While skin rejuvenation procedures have been shown to significantly improve a person's outward appearance, studies suggest these types of cosmetic interventions also can have positive effects on how people feel and how they function.
- When people feel more attractive and more confident in their appearance, they tend to perform better in other areas of their lives — in their work, family life, social life, and marriage or personal relationships.
- Under the right circumstances, cosmetic procedures can be a powerful ally, but it's important for patients to understand that these procedures are not a panacea.
In a 2008 study designed to measure the positive ripple effects of botulinum toxin injections on other aspects of patients' lives, Dr. Fried found that patients treated with botulinum toxin clearly experienced substantial benefits. His key findings include:
- 29 percent reported feeling less anxious
- 36 percent said they feel more relaxed
- 49 percent were more optimistic
A previous study conducted by Dr. Fried evaluating the clinical and psychological effects of the use of alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) found that patients demonstrated significant improvements in facial skin tone and fine wrinkling, and reported satisfaction with their physical appearance and the quality of their interpersonal relationships.

For more information on the effects of stress on skin, hair and nails, visit the American Academy of Dermatology's website at www.aad.org.

November 2008

What is used in the Iderm Treatment?

2010-05-06T07:44:00.000-07:00

The Iderm Treatment

To prep the skin I start with a process called a Moisture Pack where I place pieces of fabric that have been soaked in Dermaculture’s Yucca Solution. This solution is derived from the Yucca plants of the southwestern desert, and is an excellent facial cleanser and is also anti-inflammatory. After placing the fabric on the face I then cover the face with an infrared heat dome or "dry heat" for about 10 minutes.

Yucca is high in vitamins A, B and C and contains potassium, calcium, phosphorus, iron, manganese and copper which make it very soothing to the skin, bones and muscles.
The ingredients are over 95% Yucca with stabilizers.

This treatment helps to cleanse the walls of the pores, making it ideal in preparing the skin for extractions.

After extractions I then wrap the skin with cotton and fabric that has been soaking in Dermaculture’s Positive Solution.

This is used to treat acne, age spots, rosacea and psoriasis. This will also give a more youthful glow to the skin, and is beneficial to all skin types.

The Positive Solution is made from a perfect balance of zinc sulfate (Zinc sulfate is used to destroy harmful micro-organisms on the skin and also for its astringent action), citric acid (Vitamin C) and epson salts. The ingredients are very rich in vitamins and minerals. These ingredients work together to increase oxygen, hydration and circulation. The solution is antibacterial and aids in detoxification. It promotes healing, stimulates skin renewal and collagen growth.

The Iderm Treatment is highly recommended before surgical procedures to help prepare the skin for surgery and after surgery to help with the healing process and to prevent scarring.

For more information about this awesome skin treatment visit my website at www.dermaspace.com.

Skin Cancer Facts

2010-05-04T10:36:00.000-07:00

Skin Cancer Facts – provided by The Skin Cancer Foundation

GENERAL

Skin cancer is the most common form of cancer in the United States. More than 3.5 million cases in two million people are diagnosed annually.³⁷
Each year there are more new cases of skin cancer than the combined incidence of cancers of the breast, prostate, lung and colon.³
One in five Americans will develop skin cancer in the course of a lifetime.²⁶
Basal cell carcinoma (BCC) is the most common form of skin cancer; an estimated 2.8 million BCCs are diagnosed annually in the US.³⁸ BCCs are rarely fatal, but can be highly disfiguring if allowed to grow.
Squamous cell carcinoma (SCC) is the second most common form of skin cancer. An estimated 700,000 cases are diagnosed each year in the US,³⁹resulting in approximately 2,500 deaths.²
Basal cell carcinoma and squamous cell carcinoma are the two major forms of non-melanoma skin cancer. Between 40 and 50 percent of Americans who live to age 65 will have either skin cancer at least once.⁷
In 2004, the total direct cost associated with the treatment for non-melanoma skin cancers was more than $1 billion.¹⁴
About 90 percent of non-melanoma skin cancers are associated with exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun.³⁰
Up to 90 percent of the visible changes commonly attributed to aging are caused by the sun.¹⁶
Contrary to popular belief, 80 percent of a person's lifetime sun exposure is not acquired before age 18; only about 23 percent of lifetime exposure occurs by age 18.⁸

Lifetime UV Exposure in the United States
Ages	Average Accumulated Exposure*
1-18	22.73 percent
19-40	46.53 percent
41-59	73.7 percent
60-78	100 percent

*Based on a 78 year lifespan

MELANOMA

The vast majority of mutations found in melanoma are caused by ultraviolet radiation.³⁶
The incidence of many common cancers is falling, but the incidence of melanoma continues to rise significantly, at a rate faster than that of any of the seven most common cancers.²¹
Approximately 68,720 melanomas will be diagnosed this year, with nearly 8,650 resulting in death.³
Melanoma accounts for about three percent of skin cancer cases,³¹ but it causes more than 75 percent of skin cancer deaths.³²
Melanoma mortality increased by about 33 percent from 1975-90, but has remained relatively stable since 1990.²¹
Survival with melanoma increased from 49 percent between 1950 and 1954 to 92 percent between 1996 and 2003.²¹
More than 20 Americans die each day from skin cancer, primarily melanoma. One person dies of melanoma almost every hour (every 62 minutes).³
The survival rate for patients whose melanoma is detected early, before the tumor has penetrated the epidermis, is about 99 percent.³⁴ The survival rate falls to 15 percent for those with advanced disease.³
Melanoma is the fifth most common cancer for males and sixth most common for females.³
Women aged 39 and under have a higher probability of developing melanoma than any other cancer except breast cancer.³
Melanoma is the most common form of cancer for young adults 25-29 years old and the second most common form of cancer for adolescents and young adults 15-29 years old.¹⁸
About 65 percent of melanoma cases can be attributed to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun.³⁰
One in 55 people will be diagnosed with melanoma during their lifetime.¹⁹
One blistering sunburn in childhood or adolescence more than doubles a person's chances of developing melanoma later in life.⁴
A person's risk for melanoma doubles if he or she has had five or more sunburns at any age.⁵

MEN / WOMEN

The majority of people diagnosed with melanoma are white men over age 50.¹⁹
Five percent of all cancers in men are melanomas; Four percent of all cancers in women are melanomas.³
Contrary to popular belief, recent studies show that people receive a fairly consistent dose of ultraviolet radiation over their entire lifetime. Adults over age 40, especially men, have the highest annual exposure to UV.⁸
Between 1980 and 2004, the annual incidence of melanoma among young women increased by 50 percent, from 9.4 cases to 13.9 cases per 100,000 women.³⁵
The number of women under age 40 diagnosed with basal cell carcinoma has more than doubled in the last 30 years; the squamous cell carcinoma rate for women has also increased significantly.⁹
Until age 39, women are almost twice as likely to develop melanoma as men. Starting at age 40, melanoma incidence in men exceeds incidence in women, and this trend becomes more pronounced with each decade.¹⁷
One in 39 men and one in 58 women will develop melanoma in their lifetime.³
Melanoma is one of only three cancers with an increasing mortality rate for men.¹⁷

INDOOR TANNING

Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is a proven human carcinogen, according to the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services.¹⁰
Frequent tanners using new high-pressure sunlamps may receive as much as 12 times the annual UVA dose compared to the dose they receive from sun exposure.¹⁰
Nearly 30 million people tan indoors in the U.S. every year¹²; 2.3 million of them are teens.¹⁵
On an average day, more than one million Americans use tanning salons.²²
Seventy one percent of tanning salon patrons are girls and women aged 16-29.¹³
First exposure to tanning beds in youth increases melanoma risk by 75 percent.¹¹
People who use tanning beds are 2.5 times more likely to develop squamous cell carcinoma and 1.5 times more likely to develop basal cell carcinoma.²⁰
The indoor tanning industry has an annual estimated revenue of $5 billion.¹⁵

PEDIATRICS

Melanoma accounts for up to three percent of all pediatric cancers.²⁴
Between 1973 and 2001, melanoma incidence in those under 20 rose 2.9 percent.²⁸
Melanoma is seven times more common between the ages of 10 and 20 than it is between 0 and 10 years.²³
Diagnoses - and treatment - are delayed in 40 percent of childhood melanoma cases.²⁴
Ninety percent of pediatric melanoma cases occur in girls aged 10-19.²³

ETHNICITY

Asian American and African American melanoma patients have a greater tendency than Caucasians to present with advanced disease at time of diagnosis.⁶
The average annual melanoma rate among Caucasians is about 22 cases per 100,000 people. In comparison, African Americans have an incidence of one case per 100,000 people. However, the overall melanoma survival rate for African Americans is only 77 percent, versus 91 percent for Caucasians.²¹
While melanoma is uncommon in African Americans, Latinos, and Asians, it is frequently fatal for these populations.⁶
Melanomas in African Americans, Asians, Filipinos, Indonesians, and native Hawaiians most often occur on non-exposed skin with less pigment, with up to 60-75 percent of tumors arising on the palms, soles, mucous membranes and nail regions.²⁵
Basal cell carcinoma (BCC) is the most common cancer in Caucasians, Hispanics, Chinese, and Japanese, and other Asian populations.²⁵
Squamous cell carcinoma (SCC) is the most common skin cancer among African Americans and Asian Indians.²⁵
Among non-Caucasians, melanoma is a higher risk for children than adults: 6.5 percent of pediatric melanomas occur in non-Caucasians.²³

Sources

1. "Squamous Cell Carcinoma." MayoClinic.com. 8 March 2007. 15 April 2008. Link.

2. "Squamous Cell Carcinoma." American Academy of Dermatology. 15 April 2008.Link.

3. American Cancer Society. Cancer Facts & Figures 2009. Atlanta: American Cancer Society; 2009.

4. Lew RA, Sober AJ, Cook N, Marvell R, Fitzpatrick TB. Sun exposure habits in patients with cutaneous melanoma: a case study. J Dermatol Surg Oncol, 1983; 12:981-6.

5. Pfahlberg A, Kolmel KF, Gefeller O. Timing of excessive ultraviolet radiation and melanoma: epidemiology does not support the existence of a critical period of high susceptibility to solar ultraviolet radiation-induced melanoma. British Journal of Dermatology, March 2001; 144; 3:471.

6. Cress RD, Holly EA. Incidence of cutaneous melanoma among non-Hispanic whites, Hispanics, Asians, and blacks: an analysis of California cancer registry data, 1988-93.Cancer Causes Control 1997; 8:246-52.

7. "Sun Protection." National Cancer Institute's Cancer Trends Progress Report - 2007 Update. 15 April 2008. Link.

8. Godar DE, Urbach F, Gasparro FP, van der Leun JC. UV Doses of Young Adults.Photochemistry and Photobiology, 2003, 77(4): 453-457.

9. Christenson LJ, Borrowman TA, Vachon CM, Tollefson MM, Otley CC, Weaver AL, Roenigk RK. Incidence of basal cell and squamous cell carcinomas in a population younger than 40 years. JAMA. 2005;294:681-690.

10. "11th ROC: Ultraviolet Radiation Related Exposures." 27 January 2005. U.S. Department of Health & Human Services. 15 April 2008. Link.

11. The International Agency for Research on Cancer Working Group on artificial ultraviolet (UV) light and skin cancer. The association of use of sunbeds with cutaneous malignant melanoma and other skin cancers: Asystematic review.International Journal of Cancer 2006; 120:1116-1122.

12. Kwon HT, Mayer JA, Walker KK, Yu H, Lewis EC, Belch GE. Promotion of frequent tanning sessions by indoor tanning facilities: two studies. J Am Acad Dermatol 2003; 46:700-5.

13. Swerdlow AJ, Weinstock MA. Do tanning lamps cause melanoma? An epidemiologic assessment. J Am Acad Dermatol 1998; 38:89-98.

14. Bickers DR, Lim HW, Margolis D et al. The burden of skin diseases: 2004. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2006; 55: 490-500.

15. Demierre MF. Time for the national legislation of indoor tanning to protect minors.Arch Dermatol 2006; 139:520-4.

16. Taylor CR et al. "Photoaging/Photodamage and Photoprotection" J. of American Academy of Dermatology, 1990: 22

17. Ahmedin Jemal, Rebecca Siegel, Elizabeth Ward, Taylor Murray, Youngping Hao, Jiaquan Xu, and Michael J. Thun. Cancer Statistics, 2008. CA Cancer J Clin 2008 58: 76.

18. Cancer Epidemiology in Older Adolescents & Young Adults. SEER AYA Monograph Pages 53-63. 2007.

19. Melanoma of the Skin, Cancer Fact Sheets, National Cancer Institute, SEER Database, 2008. Link.

20. Karagas MR, Stannard VA, Mott LA, Slattery MJ, Spencer SK, and Weinstock MA. Use of Tanning Devices and Risk of Basal Cell and Squamous Cell Skin Cancers. J. Natl. Cancer Inst. 2002 94: 224; doi:10.1093/jnci/94.3.224

21. SEER Cancer Statistics Review, 1975-2004 (NCI) Link.

22. Spencer JM, Amonette RA. Indoor tanning: Risks, benefits, and future trends. J AM Acad Dermatol 1995; 33:288-98.

23. Lange JR., Palis BE, Chang DC, Soong S, Balch CM. Melanoma in Children and Teenagers: An Analysis of Patients From the National Cancer Data Base. J. Clin. Oncol.2007; 25:1363-8.

24. Ferrari A, Bono A, Baldi M, et al. Does Melanoma Behave Differently in Younger Children Than in Adults? A Retrospective Study of 33 Cases of Childhood Melanoma From a Single Institution. Pediatrics. 2005; 115:649-57.

25. Gloster HM, Neal K. Skin Cancer in Skin of Color. J Am Acad Dermatol 2006; 55:741-60.

26. Robinson JK. Sun Exposure, Sun Protection, and Vitamin D. JAMA 2005; 294: 1541-43.

27. Elwood JM, Jopson J. Melanoma and Sun Exposure: An Overview of Published Studies. Int J Cancer. 1997; 73: 198-203.

28. Strous JJ, Fears TR, Tucker MA, Wayne AS. Pediatric melanoma: risk factor and survival analysis of the surveillance, epidemiology and end results database. J Clin Oncol 2005; 23:4735-41.

29. "What is Squamous and Basal Cell Skin Cancer?" American Cancer Society. 5 May 2008. Link.

30. Armstrong, B.K., and A. Kricker, How much melanoma is caused by sun exposure?,Melanoma Research, 1993: 3:395-401.

31. "How Many People Get Melanoma Skin Cancer?" American Cancer Society. 13 May 2008. Link.

32. "The Burden of Skin Cancer." National Center for Chronic Disease Prevention and Health Promotion. 13 May 2008. Link.

33. Conti EM, Cercato MC, Gatta G, et al. Childhood Melanoma in Europe since 1978: a population-based survival study. Eur J Canc 2001; 37:780-4.

34. Huang CL, Halpern AC. Management of the patient with melanoma. In: Rigel DS, Friedman RJ, Dzubow LM, Reintgen DS, Bystryn J-C, Marks R, eds. Cancer of the Skin. New York, NY: Elsevier Saunders; 2005:265-75.

35. Perdue, Mark. Increase in melanoma cases among young American women. J Investigative Dermatology 2008.

36. Pleasance ED, Cheetham RK, Stephens PJ, et al. A comprehensive catalogue of somatic mutations from a human cancer genome. Nature 2009.

37. Howard W. Rogers, MD, PhD, Martin A. Weinstock, MD, PhD, et al. Incidence Estimate of Nonmelanoma Skin Cancer in the United States, 2006. Archives of Dermatology 2010.

38. Rogers, Howard. “Your new study of nonmelanoma skin cancers.” Email to Mark Teich. March 31, 2010.

39. Rogers, Howard. “Your new study of nonmelanoma skin cancers.” Email to Mark Teich. April 1, 2010.

These facts and statistics have been reviewed by

David Polsky, MD, Assistant Professor of Dermatology and Pathology, New York University Medical Center

and

Steven Q. Wang, MD, Director of Dermatologic Surgery and Dermatology, Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center, Basking Ridge, NJ.

Information I Post.

2010-04-29T09:33:00.000-07:00

Typically I search the web for interesting and informative articles on subjects I think are important for you to know about your skin. I do plan on writing my own articles when time permits but for the time being I offer these insights and give credit where credit is due.

Thank you and here's hoping you and your skin are fantastic!

Jody Leon - The Skin Wizard

"The Effect of Smoking on The Skin" via quitsmokingsupport.com

2010-04-29T09:30:00.000-07:00

The Effect of Smoking on The Skin

In 1985, a Dr. Douglas Model added the term "smoker’s face" to the medical dictionary after conducting a study (published in the British Medical Journal) where he found he was able to identify smokers (who had smoked for ten years or more) by their facial features alone. The distinctive characteristics of a smoker’s face which tend to make people look older than they are were called "smoker’s face" and were present in roughly half of the smokers he surveyed, irrespective of the patient’s age, social class, exposure to sunlight, recent change in weight and estimated lifetime consumption of cigarettes.

"Smoker’s Face" was defined as one or more of the following:

a. lines or wrinkles on the face, typically radiating at right angles from the upper and lower lips or corners of the eyes, deeplines on the cheeks, or numerous shallow lines on the cheeks and lower jaw.

b. A subtle gauntness of the facial features with prominence of the underlying bony contours. Fully developed this change gives the face and ‘atherosclerotic’ (sic. A bit like choked up blood vessels) look; lesser changes show as slight sinking of the cheeks. In some cases these changes are associated with a leathery, worn, or rugged appearance.

c. An atrophic, slightly pigmented grey appearance of the skin

d. A plethoric, slightly orange, purple and red complexion different from the purply blue colour of cyanosis or the bloated appearance associated with the pseudo-Cushing’s changes of alcoholism"

"The fact that so many of the people with smoker’s face were fairly young indicate that smoker’s face is not simply a symptom of age. The changes in the colour and quality of the skin suggest a toxic process… In my experience, many people notice the ravages of smoking for the first time when it is pointed out to them that they can be identified as smokers by their faces alone." Dr Douglas Model, British Medical Journal (1985)

What the toxins in cigarette smoke are doing to your skin now!

Cigarette smoke contains more than 4000 toxins many of which are absorbed directly into the bloodstream and are taken by the blood right into the structure of your skin.

Smoking cigarettes reduces the efficiency with which the skin can regenerate itself – smoking causes the constriction (narrowing) of the blood vessels at the top layers of the skin which in turn reduces blood supply (to the skin). It is the reduced blood supply which causes a reduction in the availability of oxygen (which is necessary for all living cells) and the removal of waste products, dead cell fragments etc… which provide the necessary environment for regeneration.

Cigarette smoking causes the blood vessels at the top layers of the skin to constrict and so reducing the oxygen level in the blood there. This thickens the blood and reduces the levels of collagen in the skin (it is actually because of this that smoking is also associated with slow or incomplete healing of wounds).

In fact, smoking a single cigarette can produce cutaneous (pertaining to the skin) vasoconstriction (decrease in the calibre of blood vessels) for up to 90 minutes. One study suggests that blood flow in the thumb decreases about 24% after smoking one cigarette and by 29% after two cigarettes. Another study suggested that digital (finger) blood flow fell by an average of 42% after smoking one cigarette. A further study found that smoking for 10 minutes decreases tissue oxygen tension for almost an hour and concluded that the typical pack-a-day smoker would remain hypoxic* for most of each day. (Smith and Fenske, Journal of the American Academy of Dermatol)

*hypoxic – a reduction of oxygen supply to a tissue below physiological levels despite adequate perfusion of the tissue by blood.

Smoking makes your skin thinner

A recent British study took 25 pairs of identical twins where one twin was a lifelong smoker and the other had never smoked. The doctors used an ultrasound technique to gauge inner arm skin thickness. The smoker’s skin was a quarter thinner than that of the non-smokers and in a few cases there were differences of up to 40 per cent. (Twins study, St Thomas's Hospital)

Facts about Sunscreen!

2010-04-26T12:29:00.000-07:00

What is an SPF?
The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) displayed on the sunscreen label ranges from 2 to as high as 50 and refers to the product's ability to screen or block out the sun's harmful rays. For example, if you use a sunscreen with an SPF 15, you can be in the sun 15 times longer that you can without sunscreen before burning. Consumers need to be aware that SPF protection does not increase proportionally with an increased SPF number. While an SPF of 2 will absorb 50% of ultraviolet radiation, an SPF of 15 absorbs 93% and an SPF of 34 absorbs 97%.

How do you select a sunscreen?
With so many brands of sunscreen available, selecting the right sunscreen can be difficult. These tips may help you in making your selection:

Dermatologists strongly recommend using a sunscreen with an SPF 15 or greater year-round for all skin types. If you are fair-skinned and sunburn easily, you may want to select a sunscreen with a higher SPF to provide additional protection. Using a cream, oil or lotion is a matter of personal choice, but keep in mind that most oils do not contain sufficient amounts of sunscreen and usually have an SPF of less than 2. All sunscreens need to be reapplied, so follow the guidelines written on the sunscreen bottle. Gel sunscreens tend to sweat off and, therefore, need to be reapplied more frequently. Remember, expensive sunscreens are not necessarily of better quality.
Choose a "broad-spectrum" sunscreen that protects against UVB and UVA radiation. PABA, or para-aminobenzoic acid, was one of the original ultraviolet B (UVB) protecting ingredients in sunscreens. However, some people's skin is sensitive to PABA, and it also can cause staining of clothing. Today, PABA has been refined and newer ingredients called PABA esters (such as glycerol PABA, padimate A and padimate O) can be found in sunscreens. PABA and PABA esters only protect against UVB radiation, the sun's burning rays that are the primary cause of sunburn and skin cancer. Also look for other UVB absorbers listed in the ingredients such as salicylates and cinnamates.
You should look for a sunscreen that also protects against ultraviolet A (UVA) radiation, those rays that penetrate deeper into the skin and are the culprits in premature aging and wrinkling of the skin. UVA-screening chemicals include oxybensone, sulisobenzone and Parsol 1789, also called avobenzone. NOTE: The SPF number on sunscreens only reflects the product's ability to screen UVB rays. At present there is no FDA-approved rating system that measures UVA protection levels.

Look for a sunscreen that is "waterproof" or "water-resistant," especially if you participate in outdoor physical activity.

Is there a difference between "waterproof" and "water-resistant?"
How well the sunscreen stays on the skin after swimming, bathing or perspiring is just as important as the SPF level. The FDA considers a product "water-resistant" if it maintains its SPF level after 40 minutes of water exposure. A product is considered "waterproof" if it maintains its SPF level following 80 minutes of exposure to water. If you participate in outdoor recreational activities including swimming, you may want to choose a waterproof sunscreen.

What is the difference between sunscreen and sunblock?
Sunscreens can be classified into two major types: chemical and physical. Chemical sunscreens contain special ingredients that act as filters and reduce ultraviolet radiation penetration to the skin. These sunscreens often are colorless and maintain a thin visible film on the skin. These sunscreens usually contain UVB absorbing chemicals and more recently contain UVA absorbers as well.

Physical Sunscreens, most often referred to as sunblocks, are products containing ingredients such a titanium dioxide and zinc oxide which physically block ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Sunblocks provide broad protection against both UVB and UVA light. They can be cosmetically unacceptable to many people, because they are often messy, visible and do not easily wash off. However, some new zinc oxide products are available in brightly colored preparations which are popular with young people. The amount of sun protection these sunblocks provide, while potentially high, cannot be quantified in the same manner as sunscreen SPFs. Physical sunscreen is recommended for individuals who have unusual sensitivity to UVR. Most recently on the sun protection scene is sun-protective clothing designed to block UVA and UVB radiation. The effective SPF is greater that 30.

When should you use a sunscreen?
Sunscreens should be used daily if you are going to be in the sun for more than 20 minutes. Most people will receive this amount of sun exposure while performing routine activities. They can be applied under makeup. There are many cosmetic products available today that contain sunscreens for daily use because sun protection is the principal means of preventing premature aging and skin cancer. Sunscreen used on a regular basis actually allows some repair of damaged skin. Because the sun's reflective powers are great - 17 percent on sand and 80 percent on snow - don't reserve the use of these products for only sunny summer days. Even on a cloudy day 80 percent of the sun's ultraviolet rays pass through the clouds. Skiers beware, ultraviolet radiation increases 4 percent for every 1,000-foot increase in altitude.How much sunscreen should you use and how often should you apply it? You should apply sunscreen to your dry skin 30 minutes BEFORE going outdoors. Pay particular attention to your face, ears, hands and arms. Apply sunscreen liberally using one ounce to completely cover your body. Be careful to cover exposed areas, a missed spot could mean a patchy, painful sunburn. Lips get sunburned too, so apply a lip balm that contains sunscreen with SPF 15 or higher. Sunscreens should be applied in the morning and reapplied after swimming or perspiring heavily. Remember, waterproof sunscreen begins losing effectiveness after 80 minutes in the water, so reapply sunscreen before this time, especially if you have towel-dried for maximum protection.

Brought to you by The American Melanoma Foundation

Client Review!

2010-04-09T08:32:00.001-07:00

Check out what one of my clients had to say about Dermaspace and the Iderm Treatment.

THANKS LEILA!!!

http://lbdproject.com/2010/04/08/good-bye-dull-via-iderm/

Did you know....

2010-03-22T10:59:00.001-07:00

Did you know that Vitamin C in general is thought an antioxidant that can help refresh skin and reduce the look of aging by promoting new skin growth and destroying free radicals? It's also the main ingredient in the Iderm Treatment process and is Ionized directly through the dermal layer of the skin via a low level of Galvanic electrical current.To learn more - visit www.dermaspace.com.

What is Iontophoresis?

2010-03-22T10:56:00.000-07:00

It's the process of introducing water-soluble products into the skin with an electric current. This process allows me to penetrate ions of an applied solution of Vitamin C & Zinc into the deeper layers of the skin with galvanic current.
Ions are atoms or molecules that carry an electrical charge. Current flows through conductive solutions from the positive and negative polarities. This is known as ionization, the separating of a substance into ions. To learn more about how I use this scientific method to give you awesome & flawless skin, visit my website at www.dermaspace.com.

About Jody Leon, "Skin Wizard" & Dermaspace

2010-03-18T10:04:00.001-07:00

Galvanize your skin!

Welcome to the press kit for Dermaspace.

Owner, Jody Leon, created Dermaspace to bring Hollywood’s best-kept skincare secret to the Northwest. Also known as the “skin gym,” the Iderm® Facial Treatment uses galvanic current, a natural, low-level form of electricity, to infuse skin with restorative vitamins and minerals. The result? Radiant, clear, younger-looking skin that’s plump with moisture and smooth to the touch. Are you ready for your close-up?

Finally Available in Seattle

Dermaculture, the parent company who created the Iderm process, only licenses its trade name and proprietary skincare technology throughout the United States to select skincare establishments. Dermaspace is currently the only skincare studio in the Pacific Northwest certified in the Iderm Deep Ionization Technique.

Fun Fact: On the entire West Coast, only 12 salons provide the Iderm treatment.

Enter Jody Leon, Skin Wizard

In 1995 Jody was trained and certified on the Iderm Treatment in West Hollywood at The Face Place (now known as Sally Hershberger’s Face Place), one of Hollywood's best skincare centers. Face Place clients included Cindy Crawford, Bette Midler, and Sophia Coppola, to name a few.

After a few years at The Face Place, Jody moved on to build a successful private practice in Los Angeles. In 2002 he decided it was time to trade L.A.’s sunny smog for Seattle’s rainy fog and moved to the Pacific Northwest, where he continued to build an exclusive, private skincare clientele. And in 2009, he made the Iderm Treatment available to the general public.

Fun Fact: The Iderm® Treatment isn’t just for women. Celebrities such as Brad Pitt, Christian Slater, and funny man, Mike Myers, have all enjoyed the benefits of this amazing skincare process.

Don’t Expect Cucumbers: Or, Why’s it Different

The Iderm Treatment is serious skincare for the serious client who’s looking to take their regimen to the next level. The average “spa facial” focuses on pampering the client through the addition of masks and creams.

Conversely, the Iderm Treatment is all about subtraction; removing impurities, extracting blemish-causing bacteria, and infusing the skin with healthy, water-soluble solutions of vitamins and minerals.

What Results Can You Expect?

The Iderm Treatment is skin detox at its best: You will notice immediately after the first treatment how utterly clean your skin feels. The absence of dirt, oil, and dead skin cells allows light to reflect, giving your skin a younger appearance. Increased circulation provides a radiant glow without makeup. Your skin also holds more moisture, so it feels softer and plumper. For rosacea sufferers, the galvanic current constricts blood vessels and soothes inflammation, thereby reducing redness. For those with acne, it helps unclog pores so that sebum (excess oil) can easily be removed.

Further treatments diminish fine lines, even skin tone, and provide a clearer complexion. Jody recommends beginning your anti-aging program with a treatment once a week for the first four weeks, followed by bimonthly or monthly treatments.

“Just like the gym,” Jody says, “the more you go the better the results — that’s why this treatment is often referred to as ‘The Skin Gym.’ ”

Are you ready for your workout?

Galvani-wha?: Or, Here’s How It Works

The Iderm Facial Treatment is a 4-step process.

Preparation: As you lie on a comfy massage table in Jody’s peaceful, ocean-blue studio, he gently cleanses and exfoliates your skin. As he works, he evaluates your skin type, explains the Iderm Process, and answers your questions and concerns.
Moisture Pack: Jody places cotton fabric on the skin, which has been soaked in a yucca root solution. Yucca contains saponins, often called “nature’s detergents” due to their combination of water-soluble and fat-soluble components. An infrared heat dome is then placed over the face to prepare the skin for detoxification. While you bask in the relaxing warmth, he massages your arms and hands.
Deep Cleaning: Now comes the fun part: Jody begins with a small vacuum, which oxygenates the skin and removes surface debris. He then performs a thorough, manual extraction of the facial tissue, dislodging impurities, attacking blemishes, and unclogging your pores.
Ionization: Finally, he wraps your face and neck with cotton that’s been soaked with an anti-aging solution containing, among other nourishment, Vitamin C and zinc. Vitamin C helps regenerate tissue, stimulate collagen production, and acts as an antioxidant. Zinc is an anti-inflammatory, which calms the facial tissues.

He then applies a galvanic current to ionize the solution. The current helps firm skin, tighten pores, decrease inflammation, increase collagen production, and promote new cell growth, in addition to reducing bacterial growth.

Fun Fact: Your skin actually wants to reject what you put on it, so the only way to truly affect the lower layers of the skin is to draw vitamin-rich solutions into the dermal tissue by means of electricity.

Extractions and Electrical Current?!: Or, Does the Treatment Hurt?

Generally, no. As with a workout regimen, clients new to the manual extraction process may experience minimal discomfort for a brief period.

As for the ionization process, most people find the galvanic current actually kind of tickles. It’s a low-intensity, adjustable current that is so safe you could use it every day. And because the body itself is electric, some clients find it so relaxing, they fall asleep during this step, while others find it perks them up.

Fun Fact: Galvanic current is also used in the medical arena; the Iderm Treatment is recommended for pre- and post- laser and surgical procedures to boost the healing process.

The Iderm Facial Treatment $85 - ($50 for 1st time clients)

The Iderm Back Treatment $95

For More Info and Convenient Online Booking - visit www.dermaspace.com

Dermaspace Product Profile: "Retinol Resurfacing Complex"

2010-03-18T09:47:00.000-07:00

Anti-aging resurfacer For Crow’s Feet, Laugh Lines & Uneven Skin Tone

SKIN CONDITIONS

Rough, dry, flaky skin

Surface lines

Rough, dry, aging lips

Deeper wrinkles

Age spots, sun spots and discoloration from inflammation

Whistle lines & crow’s feet

DESCRIPTION Retinol – the purest form of anti-aging Vitamin A – is blended with two scientifically-proven age-fighting complexes in an instant retexturizing, line-diffusing base to gently smooth surface wrinkles, even skin tone and restore skin’s youthful texture within days.

Pure, bioactive Vitamin A is time-released inside skin’s surface – where rough skin and wrinkles develop.

MatrixylTM Peptides – an amino acid chain based on a skin-repair peptide discovered at the National Institutes of Health – reduces as much as 68% of visible wrinkling within 2 to 6 months.

A revolutionary non-acid Sugar Complex gently reveals younger, fresher skin cells in days – for clients who can’t tolerate AHAs.

Time-released Vitamin A delivery and soothing plant extracts of Licorice, Mugwort and Algae Amino Acids counteract the stinging and redness commonly experienced with Vitamin A treatments.

Most clients will find this lightweight lotion is gentle enough to be used around the eyes

to smooth the aging effects of “crow’s feet”, and around the mouth to smooth laugh and

“whistle” lines and make lips softer, smoother and slightly plumper.

Unlike lasers, peels and injections, the results from Retinol ReSurfacing Complex continue to build overtime, helping skin regain visible smoothness and clarity with continued use.

Dermatologist-tested on sensitive skin. Ophthalmologist-approved for use around the eyes.

Does not contain fragrance, colorants or AHAs.

FRAGRANCE None

pH 5.5

ACTIONS

Rough, dry, flaky skin becomes noticeably smoother overnight*
Surface lines visibly soften within one week*
Whistle lines, crow’s feet and deeper wrinkles become less noticeable within one month*
Age spots, sun spots and discolorations from inflammation seem to fade within days to weeks*
Lips feel softer, smoother and slightly plumper within minutes to days

(*Results based on a six week study of consumers, age 30 to 68, showing visible aging

due do a variety of causes, including sun damage, stress, diet and chronological age.)

ACTION Retinol: pure bioactive vitamin A works inside skin’s surface, where dryness and wrinkles develop

INGREDIENTS

Matrixyl Peptides (Palmitoyl pentapeptide-3): bioactive peptides reduce appearance of wrinkles as much as 68% within 2-6 months
Glucosamine HCL: non-acid sugar complex gently exfoliates to deliver the same results as AHAs
Dipotassium glycyrrhizate: soothing agent from licorice
Mugwort & algae amino acids: soothe stinging, redness or other inflammation often seen with Vitamin A
Retinyl palmitate: storage form of vitamin A; visibly improves surface signs of surface aging
Beta carotene: pro-vitamin A; most active antioxidant form; protects DNA from free radical damage
Cholecalciferol: vitamin D; boosts anti-aging effects of vitamin A

SOLUBILITY Oil, water and silicone emulsion.

DIRECTIONS Home Care: Apply small amount to clean skin before bedtime. May be applied to outer eye area and

on lips.

Warning: If irritation develops, discontinue use.

CONTRAINDICATIONS: Do not recommend to pregnant women or women who plan on becoming pregnant while using this skin treatment.

COMPLETE INGREDIENT DISCLOSURE: Purified water (base), cyclopentasiloxane (evaporative silicone), dimethicone/vinyldimethicone crosspolymer (light diffusing), retinol (pure vitamin A), lecithin (liposome), glucosamine HCL (non-acid exfoliant), algae (laminaria digitata) extract (soothing), urea (hydrating), polysorbate 20 (mild emulsifier), palmitoyl-pentapeptide 3 (firming, line-smoothing), PPG-12/SMDI copolymer (delivery vehicle), octyldodecanol (softening), mica (lightdiffusing), mugwort (artemisia vulgaris) extract (soothing), retinyl palmitate (stabilized vitamin A), cholecalciferol (vitamin D), dipotassium glycyrrhizate (soothing), beta-carotene (pro-vitamin A), acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (emulsion stabilizer), glycerin (hydrating), butylene glycol (hydrating), corn oil (lipid-rich lubricant), carbomer (emulsion stabilizer), triethanolamine (pH adjustor), laureth-4 (mild emulsifier), tocopherol (freshness preservative), ascorbyl palmitate (freshness preservative), ascorbic acid (freshness preservative), isohexadecane (emollient), polysorbate 80 (mild emulsifier), yeast extract (firming, line-smoothing), soybean oil (lipid-rich lubricant), carrot extract (vitamin-A rich plant oil), PEG-8 (mild emulsifier), chlorphenesin (antimicrobial preservative), potassium sorbate (antimicrobial preservative), citric acid (freshness preservative).

Available at Dermaspace $63 (206)227-1971