Saturday, October 1, 2011

NEW BLOG HOME

Hi folks.....


The Skin Wizard is relocating addresses......

The new blog can be found here....


Thanks!!
Jody Leon

The Iderm Treatment Media Reel

DERMASPACE is the only place north of San Francisco where you can get the Iderm Facial Treatment.

WATCH NOW

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0knuZaZpkM

Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Recognizing Rosacea By: Christian Jurist, MD

Posted: August 29, 2011, from the September 2011 issue of Skin Inc. Magazine.

Rosacea is a chronic skin disorder characterized by microcirculation problems that primarily affect the face. It’s comprised of several related symptoms, such as couperose, or the dilation of facial blood vessels, and erythema, or redness. Extra-facial lesions on the neck and upper chest are not uncommon. The word “rosacea” comes from the Latin rosacea, derived from rosaceus meaning “pinklike.”

Approximately 16 million Americans and 45 million people worldwide suffer from rosacea. According to the National Rosacea Society (NRS), a Gallup survey found that 78% of Americans have no knowledge of this condition, including how to recognize it and what to do about it. (See Be Knowledgeable About Rosacea.) Although symptoms may occur during the teenage years, most people experience the onset of rosacea in their 30s, 40s or 50s, and it is more predominate in fair-skinned women. The precise cause of rosacea remains unknown, but research has shown that many factors are involved, such as genetic predisposition, heredity—especially European/Celtic descent, stomach dyspepsia and Helicobacter pylori infection, seborrhea, Demodex folliculorum mites, endocrine disorders, vitamin deficiency, liver disease and stress-related causes.

Discerning the enigma

Rosacea clients are generally prone to flushing and blushing mainly on the t-zone and cheeks. This can occur either spontaneously or can be precipitated by certain triggers that play a particular role in the development of this skin disorder, including the following.

  • Emotional stress
  • Heat and abrupt temperature changes
  • Caffeine
  • Sunlight and repeated sunburning
  • Alcoholic beverages
  • Spicy foods
  • Foods that contain histamine or cause the body to release histamine, such as tomatoes and pineapples
  • Medications, such as steroids

For example, a rosacea client may experience facial redness after drinking a hot beverage. One possible explanation would be that the heat from the beverage warms the blood irrigating the pharynx, which causes redirection of the blood flowing to the face from the brain, creating unwanted congestion at the facial level.

According to scientific belief, blood vessels become damaged when they are repeatedly dilated by stimuli, in part mediated by the hypothalamus. It has been proposed that the local release of vasoactive substances has an important implication in this pathology causing inflammation, stagnation and congestion of blood. Associated factors include minor vascular anatomical disorders, and dysfunction of the thermoregulatory vascular cooling system of the brain. These factors are partly responsible for causing blood backflow to the face with increased vessel pressure that secondarily affects the subpapillary venous plexus, leading ultimately to permanent vasodilation. Other very important factors that play a major role in damaging blood vessels include deterioration of the dermal matrix and the atrophy of supporting vessel tissues.

Also, pertaining to this disease and the role of microorganisms, greater numbers of D. folliculorum mites—part of the skin’s normal flora—are found in some rosacea clients who exhibit papulopustular eruptions. One theory proposes that changes in connective and vascular tissue provide a favorable environment for the mites to multiply. Potentially, the mites can cause an immunologic reaction that triggers an inflammatory response. This contributes to the aggravation of the symptoms.

Furthermore, it has been suggested that H. pylori,an ulcer-related agent, synthesizes gastrin in the stomach, which has been linked to promoting flushing. The participation of microorganisms in the development of this disorder continues to remain unclear at this time, as study results are inconclusive and inconsistent. Further research is necessary.

Evolution of the disease

The evolution of rosacea affecting the skin usually progresses from a mild stage, including redness and increased skin sensitivity, to a later stage, including papulopustular eruptions, commonly known as acne rosacea. As the condition evolves, it may present complications such as rhinophyma, a nose enlargement mostly affecting men, and rosacea fulminans, featuring pyoderma faciale abscesses and nodules. Fortunately, fulminans is a rare complication. Advanced and chronic schemes of the disease may additionally present sebaceous hyperplasias, fibrosis and lymphedema, or swelling. Ocular rosacea may be accompanied by inflammation inside the eyes, lids and surrounding area. In some cases, recurrent conjunctivitis and periorbital lymphedema are reasons why people consult their physicians.

The causative reasons for acne and acne rosacea are different. Acne originates primarily within the hair follicles and does not involve microcirculation; a very inflamed acne, though, can resemble rosacea, which results in the confusion. Acne rosacea, identified by inflamed and raised lesions over an erythematous area, develops as papules and pustules that may foster parasitic microorganisms. Unlike common acne breakouts, the problem is not from bacteria, retention hyperkeratosis (dead cell retention) and excess sebum, but from a combination of parasitic activity and tissue inflammation. Clients may or may not report oiliness of the skin; sometimes they may actually experience drying and peeling. For skin care professionals, the most interesting and easily recognizable features of acne rosacea versus acne are the absence of comedones and minimal scarring in the former, plus a logical correlation with the history of the condition, which can be identified during consultation.

Last but not least, there is also neck rosacea, which appears as a dilation of capillaries with diffused v-shaped reddish-brown discoloration on the sides of the neck, and a gooseflesh appearance of the skin. This occurs due to repeated exposure to sunlight or sunburn on rosacea-prone skin, causing partial atrophy of the epidermis and dermis, but sparing the tissue surrounding the hair follicles, therefore creating a bumpy look and feel.

Treating rosacea

At the moment, there is no complete cure for rosacea, but it can be greatly improved with treatment. Early stages of the disease are characterized by minor cosmetic disabilities. The good news is that not everyone affected will develop every stage of the disease. It is imperative that control and action are taken to avoid further deterioration of both the condition and the person’s wellness.

Rosacea demands skin care. Proper treatment of the skin is vital to improve the symptoms and enhance the client’s quality of life. There are many courses to addressing rosacea from a medical standpoint, as well as from the esthetic approach.

Current medical treatments, for the most part, are effective in controlling symptoms associated with D. folliculorum mites and prevalence of redness. Physicians usually agree on treating rosacea by combining topical and systemic therapies. Some topical agents have proven somewhat effective in suppressing flares and producing a reduction in the parasitic infestation, including, but not limited to, metronidazol and sulfacetamide. Popular systemic agents include tetracyclin and minocycline. As with most prescription therapies, side effects may be unavoidable, especially if the drugs are utilized long-term.

Laser and intense pulsed light (IPL) have shown remarkable results to improve facial flushing and erythema by targeting dilated blood vessels causing their atrophy and removal. LED light therapy has also proven somewhat beneficial for rosacea, especially when it comes to gentle healing and decreasing inflammation.

For the skin care specialist in the field of esthetics, there are ready-to-use alternatives to help combat the disease and satisfy clients’ demands. However, if medical attention is needed, the skin care specialist should work with a physician to provide a complete wellness solution that will achieve maximum results for the concerned individual.

A natural and effective option

It is very important that skin care products for rosacea-affected individuals include ingredients, such as green tea, licorice, chamomile and French rose essential oils, and allantoin, capable of addressing microcirculatory and inflammatory problems. Camouflage makeup is another viable topical option to address visible redness. Makeup, preferably mineral, should be hypoallergenic, noncomedogenic, easy to apply, sweatproof and offer SPF protection. But even if makeup is not worn, conscious sun avoidance and a minimum SPF 30 is highly recommended to preserve the skin’s well-being when outdoors for more than 15 minutes under broad sunlight.

Skin care professionals are the next in line to offer affected clients quality of life and the best relief possible from rosacea symptoms. Many professional skin care brands offer safe and effective tools to control the evolution of rosacea and reduce the skin undermining caused by this disorder. Be sure to check with clients’ physicians if they are being medically treated for rosacea. Then, recommend specifically designed whole skin regimens and treatments to target the condition with effective ingredients. It will help guarantee client satisfaction through visible and measurable results for years to come.

Christian Jurist, MD, is a physician who specializes in esthetic medicine and has belonged to several international esthetic medicine professional associations. After leading a medical esthetics curriculum at Florida College of Natural Health as a faculty member in the United States, Jurist joined Pevonia and Medicalia International as medical director of global education. His long-term experience has comprised multiple face and body therapies, plus many years of teaching experience. He also has written professional articles in recognized media publications, and conducted numerous educational seminars, professional trade show conferences, school classes and special events domestically and worldwide.

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Introducing "Maitri Heart"

Maitri is at the core of everything I do here at DERMASPACE.

I believe that true beauty begins by accepting ourselves for who we are and learning to cultivate unconditional friendship and love towards ourselves.

Maitri means exactly that, unconditional love and friendship toward ourself.

I have created Maitri Heart as a way to remind my clients that beauty begins within. It's a blog where I can post inspirational quotes and also allow my clients to share stories.

Join the discussion and cultivate your own Maitri Heart!!


Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Local Twist Vouchers

Hi folks....

Just a reminder that all unredeemed Local Twist vouchers expire on Sept 1.

If you book your appointment before the 1st, regardless of when the actual appt is....I will still accept your voucher.

Book now at DERMASPACE.

Saturday, August 20, 2011

On The Radio!!!

On August 11th I had the previlage and joy to be interviewed by a dear client of mine, Marie Manuchehri.

Marie is an energy medicine healer who is the perfect bridge between conventional and holistic medicine. She was raised in a family that appreciates preventive medicine, including the importance of eating nutritional organic foods and taking healthy supplements. Yet, it was during her work as an oncology nurse that she discovered and developed her skills as an energy medicine practitioner. The hospital turned out to be the ideal place to understand the energetic relationship between health and disease.

A self taught healer, Marie learned to connect conventional medicine’s understanding of disease—as it was described in a patient’s chart—to what she could intuitively understand about how a patient’s condition related to his or her energy system. Over time, she learned to identify stagnant energy—a sign of disease—and move it out of the body, making room for free healthier energy to move in and work its healing magic. Freely flowing energy can release pain, disease, and help people move in a positive direction—toward health, wealth, and fulfilling relationships and careers. Marie also discovered she is a medium, with the ability to connect with those living on the other side. She uses her talents as an energy medicine practitioner and as a medium to help people heal their wounds and expand consciousness.

I had so much fun and if you would like to listen to my interview you can do so by clicking HERE!!

For more information about Marie....visit her website!

Tuesday, August 9, 2011

Introducing DERMASPACE THERAPY'S TRIPLE C&E COMPLEX

TRIPLE C&E COMPLEX

Stabilized Vitamins C & E For Sun Damaged Skin

Dry, lackluster | Lacking firmness or elasticity | Frequent blackheads or clogged pores, Deepening lines around the eyes, mouth, cheeks or jawline.

ACTIONS

Youthful radiance begins to return within minutes

Obvious lines around eyes, mouth, cheeks and jawline appear to diminish within weeks

Evenness of skin tone starts to improve within days

Blackheads and clogged pores begin to clear within days

DESCRIPTION A blend of three unique, time-released, targeted delivery systems slowly diffuse three stabilized forms of Vitamin C and three forms of Vitamin E throughout the skin, creating a reservoir of vitamins at all levels that helps visually repair years of sun damage within weeks.


The three forms of targeted Vitamin C absorb more efficiently, magnifying Vitamin Cs antioxidant, cell protective power up to six times. This means lower percentages of Vitamin C produce maximum results without risk of irritation or vitamin oxidation.


Known to be synergistic in their effects, Vitamin C recycles Vitamin E as an antioxidant, increasing Vitamin Es free radical-scavenging effects fifty times normal. These vitamins also help prevent sebum oxidation, working together to reduce and prevent blackheads and clogged pores.


Within days to weeks, skins youthful radiance is revived, obvious lines and wrinkles diminish in appearance, normal skin tone begins to return, and blockages in pores are reduced or eliminated without the irritating effects of other extra-strength Vitamin C products.


Note | The three delivery vehicles in Triple C&E Complex ensure the equivalent of 14% free Vitamin C is delivered into the skin. Because the Vitamin C is time-released and slowly converted to its acid state over several hours, irritation is significantly reduced or eliminated. The delivery vehicles also ensure the Vitamin C level stays constant throughout the shelf-life of the product, producing maximum vitamin stability and activity of a year or longer. Formulas that contain 10-20% Vitamin C frequently do so to offset the amount of Vitamin C that is oxidized throughout the products lifetime. Within six months, retesting of high percentage Vitamin C products shows their content can diminish to 2% or less, with the remainder of the Vitamin C oxidized which is apparent as the product begins to turn brown. Oxidized Vitamin C can irritate the skin and cause blocked pores.


Triple C&E Complex is a gentle, no-sting formula that is tested and proven safe for sensitive skin.

When stored in a cool, darkened area, the stability of this formula is guaranteed for a minimum of one year. Does not contain synthetic fragrance, colorants or parabens.



ACTION INGREDIENTS

Ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate | water-soluble, stabilized, time-released vitamin C Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate | water-soluble, stabilized, time-released Vitamin C Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate | lipid-soluble, stabilized, time-released vitamin C Tocopheryl acetate | vitamin E ester, keeps skin lipids fresh, protects natural radiance

Tocopheryl linoleate | moisturizing vitamin E, forms comforting pillow of moisture in skin for 16-20 hours Tocopherol | antioxidant vitamin E, fights lipid and sebum oxidation, discourages blackheads Bioflavonoids | vitamin C ‘bridging’ agent, delivers vitamin C to skin cells to ensure activity

Rose hips seed oil | helps repair skins natural moisture zone, revives radiance from within

Dipotassium glycyrrhizate | powerful soothing molecule from licorice, calms on contact



COMPLETE INGREDIENT DISCLOSURE


Water (base), sunflower (helianthus annuus) seed oil (emollient), stearic acid (emulsifier), dioctyl succinate (emollient), tocopheryl linoleate (moisturizing vitamin E), dimethicone (breathable barrier), PEG-8/SMDI copolymer (vitamin C time-release agent), tetrahexyldecyl ascor- bate (stabilized vitamin C), cyclopentasiloxane (slip agent), cetyl alcohol (emulsifier), lemon bioflavonoids (boosts action of vitamin C), ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate (time-released vitamin C), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (time released vitamin C), methyl gluceth 20 (hydrating), shea butter (butyrospermum parkii) (emollient), tocopheryl acetate (stabilized vitamin E), PEG-25 soy sterol (emulsifier), polysorbate 80 (emulsifier), rose hips (rosa canina) seed oil (emollient), grapefruit (citrus grandis) extract (skin softener), grapefruit (citrus grandis) oil (emollient), sodium phytate (antioxidant), PEG-8 (emulsifier), tocopherol (antioxidant vitamin E), ascorbyl palmitate (freshness preservative) , ascorbic acid (freshness preservative), citric acid (freshness preservative), carbomer (emulsion stabilizer), lemon (citrus medica limonum) extract (natural fragrance), lemon (citrus medica limonum) peel oil (fragrant essential oil), orange (citrus aurantium dulcis) peel oil (fragrant essential oil), dipotassium glycyrrhizate (soothing), xanthan gum (emulsion stabilizer), sunflower (helianthus annuus) seed oil (emollient), rosemary (rosmarinus officinalis) leaf extract (antioxidant), methylisothiazolinone (antimicrobial preservative), phenoxyethanol (antimicrobial preservative), ethylhexylglycerin (skin conditioner), butylene glycol (hydrating), tromethamine (pH adjuster).


DIRECTIONS


Home Care | Smooth 1-3 pumps of fluid over clean skin before applying moisturizer, sunscreen or makeup. May also be applied to chest and back of hands. To reduce friction and help prevent redness that can occur during application, warm Triple C&E Complex between fingertips by quickly rubbing hands together, then lightly pat and press product into the skin. If used with other treatments, layer over water-based complexes, and under moisturizer. Avoid irritation from strong AHA products by applying Triple C&E Complex during day, AHAs at night. Avoid eye area if tearing occurs.


Available at DERMASPACE - $65





Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Cool Photo from German Vogue!!!


Recently German Vogue did and article called "Perfect Beauty" and featured in the main photo was the treatment I offer at DERMASPACE, The Iderm Facial Treatment. I am the only clinical Esthetician north of San Francisco who offers this treat.

Great photo by Torkil Gudnason. The mask is actually backwards for dramatic interpretation and there is WAY more to the treatment than what this photo infers. Come see for yourself!!

You can learn more about this treatment by visiting my website.

DERMASPACE

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

The Magic of Cell Youth ActÍf

Cell Youth ActÍf: A DERMASPACE High Performance Treatment


Activates Youthful Skin in 14 Different Ways For Mature or Maturing Skin


DESCRIPTION: Activate and restore the youthful nature of your skin with this exclusive combination of five anti-aging cell technologies. As its lightweight texture melts into the skin, this serum works overtime to correct 14 signs of aging including:

1. Lines & wrinkles minimized
2. Firmness repaired
3. Contours redefined
4. Clarity revealed
5. Tone evened
6. Hydration intensified
7. Smoothness refined
8. Radiance awakened
9. Redness calmed
10. Puffiness eliminated
11. Sun damage diminished
12. Fragile skin strengthened
13. Vitality recharged
14. Repair enhanced

The culmination of over a decade of scientific research and multiple patents, this revolutionary serum is the first to address the 5 key processes known by reparative and regenerative biologists to have the most impact on cellular aging. This skin transforming serum contains five different anti-aging cell technologies:

Problem | Activation-resistant stem cells
Solution | Activate youthful skin where it begins | As you age, skin cells die, youthful proteins decline and moisture-holding lipids decrease. Waiting to receive the molecular message to take the place of dying cells are reservoirs of adult stem cells hidden in microscopic niches within your skin. Recently, scientists discovered messengers in a North Atlantic alga reactivate dormant stem cells1 found in mature skin.

Within days, skin is energized. Within weeks, skin appears regenerated. Contours become more defined, firmness returns, lines smooth and wrinkles are less noticeable.

Problem | Loss of cellular water
Solution | Boost cellular water | Vital for life-giving hydration, aquaporins are newly discovered cell membrane proteins known to channel water into cells. Unfortunately, these water channels decline with age. Skin may be hydrated, but little water is delivered inside cells. Skin looks flat, dull, lackluster.

Remarkably, molecules from the Brazilian tree Piptadenia colubrina increases the presence of aquaporins.

ACTIONS

· Activates youthful skin 14 ways
· Addresses the 5 key processes biologists believe have most impact on cellular aging
· Fourteen different signs of aging are corrected within 2 days to 3 months
· Unlike any other anti-aging formula on the market
· Contains 5 anti-aging technologies in 1 perfect solution
· Over a decade of research, multiple patents
· 85% natural (including water)
· Amplifies effects of treatment modalities & procedures

Geared for Aging, Mature and Menopausal Skin | Skin lacking firmness | Sun-Damaged Skin | Dull, tired, devitalized skin | Dehydrated and flaking skin | Red, Sensitive, Rosacea-prone skin.

Action Ingredients:

· Hydrolyzed Algin | creates revitalizing environment to awaken skin’s dormant stem cells. Activates youthful firmness and smoother, healthier-looking skin.
· Piptadenia Colubrina Peel Extract | molecules from this Brazilian tree increase the presence of aquaporins – the water channels in cell membranes – resulting in hydrated cells and more youthful looking and acting skin.
· Arabidopsis Extract | contains enzymes that repair the most common form of DNA damage; skin begins to look younger within days.
· Peumus Boldus Leaf Extract | a rich source of Resveratrol – a powerful antioxidant and sirtuin booster believed to protect against DNA damage and cell death, boost cellular antioxidant defenses and increase the lifespan of cells. Improves elasticity, reduces sensitivity and addresses deeper signs of aging.
· Ergothioneine | the cell’s principal energizing antioxidant, restores power to cells, quenching age-producing radicals and supporting cellular activities from detoxification to the production of youthful proteins; within days, visible redness is calmed, signs of repair are enhanced, and an even tone and clarity begin to return to skin.

In a four-week consumer test, 4 out of 5 people who used this product twice a day reported the following:

• On contact | skin is visibly smooth, comfortably hydrated
• Within 2 days | redness & puffiness are dramatically reduced
• Within 2 weeks | radiance, vitality & repair are clearly enhanced
• Within 6 weeks |clarity, lines, firmness & sun damage are noticeably improved
• Within 3 months | wrinkles may be radically diminished & contours redefined

This lightweight serum won’t flake, crack, peel or discolor. When stored in a cool, dark area, the stability of this formula is guaranteed for at least one year.

Does not contain parabens, formaldehyde-donor preservatives, fragrance, essential oils, colorants, phthalates, bisphenol A, propylene glycol, dioxine, or toluene.


FRAGRANCE: None
pH: 5.4
SOLUBILITY: Water-based creme-gel
COMPLETE
INGREDIENT
DISCLOSURE
Water (base), cyclopentasiloxane (evaporative slip agent), glycerin (hydrating), safflower (carthamus tinctorius) oleosomes
(natural emulsifiers), dimethicone crosspolymer (thickener), PEG-8/SMDI copolymer (delivery vehicle), butylene glycol
(hydrating), hydrolyzed algin (cell energizer), betaine (hydrating), ergothioneine (cell energizer), arabidopsis extract (DNA
repair enzymes), laminaria digitata extract (cell energizer), sea whip (pseudopterogorgia elizabethae) extract (extra-strength
soothing), aminoguanidine HCI (anti-glycation, firming), decarboxy carnosine HCl (anti-glycation, firming), peumus boldus
leaf extract (antioxidant), polygonum cuspidatum root extract (Japanese knotweed, reservatrol source), piptadenia
colubrina peel extract (cell hydrator), lecithin (forms liposomes), folic acid (micronutrient), pentylene glycol (humectant),
dimethicone (slip agent), ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer (thickener), xanthan gum (slip agent), laureth-23
(mild emulsifier), laureth-4 (mild emulsifier), phenoxyethanol (antimicrobial preservative), ethylhexylglycerin (skin conditioner).


Home Care | AM/PM Directions | After cleansing, place 6 pumps of serum into palm. While skin is still moist, with third finger apply serum first around eyes, sweeping outward to hairline, neckline, décolletage and behind neck. Immediately apply moisturizer followed by SPF 15 or higher during the day.
2-3Xs a week thin skin’s barrier with micro-exfoliant. Recommend Crystal
Clarity Microdermabrasion Crème for the most thorough exfoliating action.

$99 available at DERMASPACE

Tuesday, July 12, 2011

The Importance of Vitamin C.

As some of you know DERMASPACE infuses the skin with healthy vitamins and minerals. One of those ingredients is Vitamin C which is necessary for the growth and repair of body tissues. It is needed to form collagen, an important protein the body used to make skin, ligaments and blood vessels. Collagen is also used to make scar tissue, making vitamin C crucial in healing: If you burn, cut, scrape or otherwise wound your skin, it helps generate new skin and repairs the damaged tissue. Vitamin C is also essential to the healing and maintenance of bones and teeth.


Read more: HERE

Thursday, July 7, 2011

Peptides: Ready for Primetime? By: Ahmed Abdullah, MD, FACS

Peptides: Ready for Primetime?
By: Ahmed Abdullah, MD, FACS

Posted: June 28, 2011, from the July 2011 issue of Skin Inc. Magazine.

During the past decade, peptides have taken on growing prominence in the skin care category. They’ve become so popular, in fact, that countless skin care products proudly feature them on their ingredient lists, whether sold by physicians and licensed skin care professionals, or department stores and drugstores. The excitement surrounding peptides isn’t simply reserved for product formulators and marketers, however. Take a look at the skin care conversation among consumers online, and you’ll find plenty of individuals pronouncing the positive impact peptide formulations have had on their skin. There’s little doubt that consumers are beginning to consider them the next big thing.

Yet, despite the vigor with which skin care brands promote peptide formulations and the growing consumer appetite for such products, their benefits have not yet been fully proven in the scientific arena. Certainly, potential exists, but so do limitations. Whether peptides truly are a panacea or simply another ingredient propelled into the spotlight may not yet be known for several years. Until then, it’s essential for skin care professionals to be well-versed on the topic, because, most certainly, your clients will soon be asking your opinion of peptides, if they haven’t already.

The science

Peptides are biologically active compounds that closely resemble proteins—both are chains of amino acids. The difference? Peptide chains include fewer amino acids. Generally, a chain with more than 50 amino acids is a protein while those with fewer is a peptide. However, there are exceptions. Peptides are classified according to their length. Therefore, you’ll often encounter terms such as dipeptides—two amino acids; tripeptides—three; tetrapeptides—four; pentapeptides—five; and so on. Although there are probably thousands of naturally occurring peptides, to date, only several hundred have been characterized.1

Peptides play an array of important roles in the body, depending on the type. They may reduce inflammation, enhance antioxidant defense mechanisms, regulate bodily functions and even offer analgesic properties. In cosmeceuticals, three types of peptides are used, including:

Signal peptides that encourage fibroblasts to increase production of collagen while decreasing the breakdown of existing collagen;
Neurotransmitter peptides that limit muscle contraction and, thus, are said to mimic the effects of botulinum toxin; and
Carrier peptides that stabilize and deliver trace elements necessary for wound-healing and enzymatic processes.
Given that signs of skin aging, including fine lines and wrinkles, are caused by a breakdown of collagen and elastin—the proteins that give skin strength and elasticity, as well as slow cellular turnover—the abilities of these peptides seem the perfect match for skin care formulations. However, not only are peptides expensive to utilize, in their natural state they also have shortcomings that significantly limit their potential in skin care applications. These shortcomings include the following.

Peptides have a large molecular size and are hydropholic (water-liking), so they are unable to penetrate the lipopholic (fat-liking) stratum corneum layer of the epidermis.2 Despite this, peptides are generally unstable in water-based formulations. The presence of water breaks down the peptide bond, rendering it inactive.3
Should peptides be absorbed, the abundant presence of enzymes found in the skin can also break down peptide bonds.4
Fortunately, peptides are easily modified to improve their characteristics relative to use in skin care formulations. Chemists have found creative ways to overcome their limitations, such as attaching a fatty acid component to improve absorption into the skin, specific activity and economic feasibility.

Popular peptides

In skin care today, only approximately 25 peptides are routinely utilized due to various limitations, including high cost and absorption capabilities.5 Some of the more popular types are palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, acetyl hexapeptide-8 and GHK-C.

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4. A signal peptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (previously referred to as palmitoyl pentapeptide-3) is sold commercially as Matrixyl. The compound developed by Sederma adds palmitic acid to the peptide chain to improve penetration. Hailed as a very promising cosmeceutical ingredient during the 20th World Congress of Dermatology in Paris, 2002, company research showed palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 produced substantial improvements in wrinkle appearance more quickly than retinol and without causing irritation.6

Acetyl hexapeptide-8. A neurotransmitter peptide, acetyl hexapeptide-8 (previously referred to as acetyl hexapeptide-3) is sold commercially as Argireline. This compound, manufactured by Lipotec, has often been compared to botulinum toxin, due to its ability to inhibit the reactions that cause muscles to contract. Although it is certainly less potent than botulinum toxin, a study showed that acetyl hexapeptide-8 displayed remarkable anti-wrinkle activity when applied topically.7

GHK-Cu. Enthusiasm surrounding the use of peptides in skin care began with copper peptide GHK-Cu, which was discovered by Loren Pickart, MD, in 1973.8 A carrier peptide, GHK-Cu has been shown to be effective in wound-healing and reducing fine lines and the depths of wrinkles, among other attributes.9, 10

Matrixyl 3000. Peptides are also used in combination, as in the case of Matrixyl 3000. Manufactured by Sederma, Matrixyl 3000 is a combination of palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7. Together, these peptides are reported to decrease wrinkle density, volume and depth.11

Overcoming hurdles

Although chemists have found ways to optimize peptides for use in topical skin care formulations, they still face hurdles before they can generate the results anticipated by the consumers who buy them. Assuming the peptide has been modified to improve its stability in skin care formulations, through chemistry, the use of appropriate product packaging and its ability to penetrate the skin, it’s still essential that the product feature an effective delivery system to reach the target area where collagen synthesis, wound-healing and other activities may occur. Only when the peptide is absorbed by the skin and delivered to the targeted area in a stable form will it stand the potential of generating results.1

Formulators are certainly rising to this challenge. Sophisticated new delivery systems are regularly being developed, and the onus is on skin care professionals to stay on top of these new developments to ensure the products they are recommending stand a strong chance of truly providing their marketed benefits.

Another challenge: To be effective, peptides must be utilized in appropriate concentrations. Unfortunately, ingredient concentrations within a formulation are rarely disclosed on the label. Given the generally high cost of peptides, some manufacturers use them in concentrations below those utilized in scientific research or recommended by the peptide manufacturer. This is a marketing trick that allows the company to tout the use of a certain peptide and charge a lower price for the product. However, the formulation is nearly certain to be ineffective. Because of this, it is important to request and obtain backup research for product claims from manufacturers.

Speaking of research, although some third-party studies do exist that demonstrate positive outcomes from the use of peptides in skin care, there remains the issue of consumer expectations. For example, acetyl hexapeptide-8 is incapable of delivering results similar to that of botulinum toxin injections. Yet, this mantra is still promoted by many consumers and even individuals within the industry when referring to this compound. Because of this, consumer expectations are often out of line with the true capabilities of some peptide products. To be clear, if peptides were indeed able to produce results that matched much of the hype, they would be classified as drugs and require U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) approval for use. To that point, it’s often necessary to downplay much of the hype surrounding the use of these ingredients until a stronger base of unbiased research exists.

The future

With so much excitement surrounding peptides, the field of researchers investigating their potential is broadening, and their work is proving fruitful. In just the past few years, several new studies have demonstrated a wider potential for the use of peptides. For example, it is believed that the antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory characteristics of certain peptides may prove useful in the treatment of psoriasis, dermatitis and eczema.12, 13 As the development of synthesized peptides continues to move forward, it is expected the applications for peptides in skin care may broaden to include UV protection, treatment of an array of skin disorders, greater use as a melanin suppressant and much more.

However, while peptides are indeed showing promise as a capable and perhaps even impressive anti-aging ingredient, it’s important that their use be realistically approached. Currently, much of the enthusiasm surrounding their use is being fueled by consumer anecdotes of successful results. Although these are useful, they cannot be the measuring stick by which the ingredients you recommend are determined.

Until the true potential of peptides is better understood, it’s important to err on the side of caution by providing clients with the facts so they have realistic expectations before they purchase a peptide-based skin care product.

REFERENCES

1. MP Lupo and AL Cole, Cosmeceutical peptides, Dermatologic Therapy 20 5 343–349 (2007)

2. C Cullander and RH Guy, Routes of delivery: case studies (6). Transdermal delivery of peptides and proteins, Advanced Drug Delivery News Rev8 291–329 (1992)

3. A Gonzalez, Cosmetology Global Media 2007

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Ahmed Abdullah, MD, FACS, a board-certified plastic and cosmetic surgeon, is CEO, co-founder and formulator of Lexli International, Inc. He is a member of the International Aloe Science Council (IASC) based in Dallas, and has served on its board. Abdullah is a clinical associate professor of plastic surgery at the University of North Dakota School of Medicine in Grand Forks, North Dakota, and owns and practices at Plastic Surgery Institute PC and the Lexli Skin Care Center, both of which are based in Fargo, North Dakota.

Thursday, June 30, 2011

Are tanning beds a good source of vitamin D?

The answer is NO....end of story.

Check out the article HERE.

Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Slight change in service at DERMASPACE

Effective immediately the "Hand & Arm Massage" will be discontinued until further notice due to an ongoing shoulder issue. Please accept my apologies and thank you for your understanding.

Thursday, June 2, 2011

Great article in the New York Times!

I began my career at The Face Place in 1995 and now offer this amazing treatment in Seattle. Check out this article by clicking HERE.